Engine Removal Tips & Question

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jhusjr

Engine Removal Tips & Question

Post by jhusjr »

The teardown operation is almost complete for the winter. The last step is to pull the engine so I still have something to work on over the colder months. My last steps are to take out the driveshaft and undo the engine/trans mounts which I'll do tonight.

We've got the cherry picker set up and ready to go, so here's my question. I've read the section on the website and the engine removal steps and it says 'Attach adjustable lifting device to brackets on front and rear of engine.' Are there picking points already on the engine that I'm not seeing? Or is this something that one has to fashion themselves? We've got plenty of chains in the garage so I think I'm ready to go on that end.

Can someone point me in the right direction as to where exactly these 'brackets' are, if in fact they are on the engine already? I've got a few pictures of the engine sitting in the engine bay of my own, so maybe I can spot them with a little help from you guys. Pretty much everything is out already, so it should be easy to see if I know where to look.

Also, any general tips regarding this subject are greatly appreciated.

Me and my dad will hope to get the motor out tonight, but I wanted to get some input before I head to his house later in the day. He's never pulled a 4 cylinder, only v-6 and v-8 of much larger sizes.

Thanks for the help as always.
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bmccarthy67
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Re: Engine Removal Tips & Question

Post by bmccarthy67 »

The lifting points are small brackets on the front left...looking from the front of the car (right under the valve cove), and the rear right at the last bolt holding the exhaust manifold on. The only other sugestion is to cover the trans output with a bag or cap secured over it to prevent fluid from leaking everywhere. You can also remove the top radiator support bar for more clearance as you swing the drivetrain out.

You can see the rear on the 1600:
Image

And the front on the 2000...my lifting chain is still on it in the photo...be careful with your valve cover and the chains!
Image

v/r
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66Roadster
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Re: Engine Removal Tips & Question

Post by 66Roadster »

Another tip - Take off the hood, and remove the bolts to the radiator supports - bolts to body and overflow tank. Take off the horns and bolts to little air scoop at the bottom of radiator - if they are still there. Then disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses from the motor and overflow tank. Pull the radiator out with supports, hoses, shoud all attached as one unit. The wiring harness that runs across the top support has enough slack to move out of the way. This way you don't have to pull the fan, then shoud to get the radiator out and by removing the supports you get more room.

I also leave all the manifolds/carbs on the motor. Some have clearance issues with the exhuast manifold with a 2L, but never had the problem - knock on wood.

Best time yet to pull a motor in Roadster by myself is 1/2 hour - my car with air tools. Just did a R&R on the 67 Solex motor. Took 1.5 hours to pull it - getting slow in my old age..... But hey, first time to pull this motor (one motor mount bolt was really buggered up) and put air in one bike tire, answered the phone,,,,.

Have fun! Pulling a Roadster motor is a joy compared to most.

Phil
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jhusjr

Re: Engine Removal Tips & Question

Post by jhusjr »

bmccarthy67-

Okay...I can see where the chain hooks up. I have something on my engine that's in that general location, but it was mainly used for running the soft fuel line to the carbs out of the way of the fan. It doesn't really look like something you would use to pick the engine with. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm an engineer, and my judgement says something's not right with my part. With that said, could the pick point you used be removable? and very well not be on my engine? As for the back of it, I'll have to take a look this evening. I don't have any good shots of the back of my engine.

I've really got to find a way to get my camera to take pictures small enough to post on here....

-Phil

Thanks for the heads up. I'm the lucky guy who's starting a full-resto, so EVERYTHING is out of the way.

Anyone know of alternate picking points???
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66Roadster
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Re: Engine Removal Tips & Question

Post by 66Roadster »

I would just get some 3/16" X 1.00" flat stock from Home Depot in a pinch and drill a hole(s) to bolt on the exhaust studs in back and front chain cover studs in front. 20 minute project. I made some for my U20 out of 1/4 aluminum - I will look for a picture or two.

Phil
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I found couple of pictures

Image

I made this to replace the front cover and distrubute the load over all the studs.

Image

This is the rear pull mount

An engineering also - yep, us engineers seem to over engineer...... :D

Phil
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Last edited by 66Roadster on Thu Oct 02, 2008 1:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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S Allen
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Re: Engine Removal Tips & Question

Post by S Allen »

James,

You should be able to set your camera to shoot 640x480 pixels. Most digitals have the 2000 or higher plus pixel setting which is way too big for uploading. Nice crisp pictures but way too big to upload or attach here. Get your camera's user manual out. It should not be that hard.

Steve
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ppeters914
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Re: Engine Removal Tips & Question

Post by ppeters914 »

.....or resize 'em. I'm cheap and use MS Paint, but there's plenty of other freebies. You can also resize 'em automagically when you upload them to Photobucket. Webshots also allows you to select various sizes to post pics.
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dbrick
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Re: Engine Removal Tips & Question

Post by dbrick »

My 2000 had no lift loops. I used the top starter bolt and the top bolt of the air pump mount on the right front, with a big towel between the chain and the valve cover.

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Re: Engine Removal Tips & Question

Post by Duane C. »

Motorcycle shops have nylon straps about 2 feet long that have loops sewed into each end. They're used to tie down bikes with no exposed framework. I wrapped one around the intake/exhaust manifolds in the rear, and one around the alternator bracket in the front, and lifted on those. Worked great. They don't scratch, and they seem plenty strong.
jhusjr

Re: Engine Removal Tips & Question

Post by jhusjr »

Thanks for the tips guys. We brought a muscle car fan down to street look at things and get his two cents as well.

We're actually going to pull it this upcoming Thursday, but we're going to use two make-shift brackets. One using the two thicker studs that the 'window' piece goes over that's in the front of the engine, just below the valve cover. The other bracket will slip over one of the studs for the starter.

Hope all goes well next week.
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