Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

The engine in on the frame the frame is under the body.
Now is there a good source on how to wire this thing?
My first question is do i need all the smog stuff on the engine with the EFI?
Is a 240SX fuse / relay box required?
I have a painless wiring universal 12 circuit on its way and the 5 inch classic intraments gauge kit.

Can some one point me in the right direction?
Cheers,
~Robert

No, you don't need the smog stuff.
You don't absolutely need the 240 stuff, as far as the fuse/relay panel. May be cleaner and simpler if you made one yourself. (if you have some electrical skills)
I take it the painless kit is to replace the factory wiring? It will be of little use for the EFI part of your conversion. The best solution is to use the factory computer and harness. Pretty much plug and play. Just a matter of running some power and grounds. If you are real adventuresome, you could try and clean the harness of any unused wiring to tidy it up. You would want to get an OBDI or earlier setup. OBDII is much more complicated. There is also the standalone option.

Mark

The engine is from a 92 240sx. So that means ODBI I believe.

I am about to show my ignorance.
There is a bunch of vacuum lines on the back of the engine, including the large pipe that swings from the exhaust manifold around the back of the block to some sort of diaphram looked thing.
Is that smog?

Cheers,
~Robert

abusaidi wrote:Now is there a good source on how to wire this thing?

How to wire a CA/KA/SR into almost anything:

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=549

Thanks Pete.
Is there post somewhere on what is the minimum that is required on the ka24de. As in what can be removed and still have the EFI function?
Cheers.
~Robert

The big pipe from the exhaust to the intake is the EGR valve. That can go bye-bye if you plug off both ends. Most, if not all the vacuum lines can go also, except for a ported vacuum if you have a vacuum advance onthe distributor. You can run with less wiring if you use a standalone setup to run speed/density (MAP based), but it obviously costs $$$. Its' a bit complicated to say what you do/don't need using the stock computer. Depending on the year, there are certain sensors that won't exist on a roadster that you would have to adapt or fool the computer into thinking are there with a resistor or like. I can't say exactly what but there are a few here that have done this swap and may be able to offer specifics. If the car were in front of me (and a wiring diagram), I would be able to say but.....

Mark

Mark ,
Thanks for the info, the erg pipe i had modified to be more tucked up against the block, but now i will pull it off and weld both end shut. I will also try to figure out if I have a Vacuum advance on the distributor.
Cheers,
~Robert

Why plug the EGR valve? It's only function is to cool the combustion chamber gases when you are under no load. It is to prevent piston melt down because during these conditions the mixture is lean meaning very hot. When you load the engine as in accelerate the EGR shuts down. It's only used when you don't need performance.

My main reason I have to remove the pipe which fits tightly between the block and the firewall is more clearence.
I would rather remove it now then to find it rubs later.
Cheers,
~Robert

I removed 14 pounds of hoses and other crap from my KA24DE with no ill effects. Everything with a vacuum hose can be unbolted and chunked except the fuel pressure regulator. Do not hook the fuel pressure regulator to the vacuum port that is on the bottom side of the throttle body. It is exactly opposite of what you need vacuum at WOT and no vacuum at idle). You can pull the intake manifold and remove the (SCV) butterfly valves from the runners. Then plug the four ports under the flange. You can make a block off plate for the EGR and other removable stuff. The KA does really well without all this stuff and won't even throw a code. The distributor is fixed. All the advance is done in the ECU.