Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I like my roadster, there's not much upgrades to it,
but one thing that I'm not used to is when I turn corners.
It doesn't feel right. The frame and body are not working
together I think. What can I do? I thought about
sway bars and cross bars, will that work? Are there some
out there? suggestions are appreciated.....

Here is my set up. Some of the parts are now impossible to find, but most are not.
I am running KONI ajustable shocks, Nissan Comp rear leafsprings, poly bushings in the rear, the BIG 23mm anti swaybar in the front with a set of Datsun Sports front coil springs ( I had the nissan comp front springs, decided to try the other ones. I'm about to put the Nissan ones on ebay). Those parts are easy to find, the imposible to find one is the R190 4.11:1 Limited Slip rear end. I shaved the bumpstops down so they wouldn't bottom with the shorter springs. I'm running a set of American Racing Equipment 14X5.5 Libra wheels with Falken Azenis 195/60 tires. My car corners with a flat attitude (no body roll) and is now very balanced. I regularly take a 15 mph offramp at closer to 40 with no tire squeel, or twitchiness. I also have 1.5 degrees negitive camber with 1/16 inch toe in.
If you have the stock steel wheels, they flex quite a bit, and they are heavy. By switching out to alloy wheels you will find a huge difference.

Good luck,

Will

Bespa-

FWIW, here's my $.02: Like Will does now, I ran 1.5 degrees negative camber in front (toe-in and caster were factory stock specs) when I was autocrossing my 1600. Not bragging, but class champ twice (well, maybe a little pat on the back). I ran the full Datsun comp suspension, including their shocks, but used the 4.38 lsd. Also ran heavy front bar (don't remember diameter) and a rear bar I got from JC Witless...er...Whitney, made by ADDCO. Nothing to laterally brace the rear axle. Race tires were 22.5 x 8.0 / 14, which equates to only about a 205/50-14 now. Seemed really low-profile back then.

The suspension set-up was nothing special, but I really feel my "ace-in-the-hole" was my familiarity with the car. Since it was also my daily driver, I was very in tune with what it was doing. I could feel "the edge" sooner than my competition, so even though I was probably 15-20 hp down compared to them, I could still beat them. Even back then, I thought that the mental part was bigger than most people gave credit for. I still believe it.

But don't forget, we're dealing with 40-year-old technology here. The way to make them handle back then was a ride as hard as a brick. Then the 240Z came along and changed everything. Imagine! Cornering and a decent ride! Who'd a thunk it?

I agree with the above set up tips. I'd question what you're looking for though - the initial comment is kind of sketchy. A good roadster (regardless of what springs you've got on it) will corner like a go kart, very flat. From what you've indicated, the first thing I'd do is check that everything is bolted down tight, wheel bearings are adjusted properly, and the alignment is good. First time I drove mine after the restoration it wiggled at the back end every time I shifted - I'd forgotten to tighten down the U bolts on one side of the rear axle. I've also seen loose bolts on the lower a arm cross shafts and of course, loose bolts on the upper A arm shafts is notorious. Check that every thing is tight first. good to do that with the front end off the ground. Also, look at your steering. When the idler box is worn, which is all too common, you can move the steering linkage a 1/4 inch or more with no movement at the right wheel. By default, that means the wheel can move without the steering gear moving - not good for handling. Make sure all the basics are covered before you spend any money.

When I initially bought my 69 1600 it felt like it was going to fall apart everytime I hit a bump or turned. What I ended up doing as probably you will is replace all the spindles, ball joints and tie rods. These cars are 40+ yearsold and usually didnot receive very good service as you had to grease all the 22 zerks in the suspension. After I replaced the suspension the car handled just like any new car would today. Before you go to replace all the suspension look at your upper spindle and lower ball joint to see if you get any play (they are usually the first to wear out) and when you do replace your upper spindles throw away the orginial bolts and get longer ones that you can put a lock washer and locking nut on so the assembly will not inadvertanly come apart (saftey first!). The whole front end replacement (parts) will run about $1200.00 from any of the vendors. After you have replaced those, drive the car and see if you want to upgrade to a comp front and rear suspension. I have had both and currently run the datsun comp front and stock rear with Addco rear sway bar. I also have KYB white body shocks all the way round.

Hope that helps.

Alexi

hey Bucky,
this is a little off thread, but I have to ask... How is that 4.38 rear end on the freeway? I'm thinking of putting that in my roadster with the 2.0 5spd but I don't want the engine revving too high.

mark

I no longer have that car but the engine was definitely turning faster with those gears. The way I figure it, all else being equal, the engine will run about 13% faster, so at speeds you used to turn, say, 3000rpm, with a 4.38 you'll turn almost 3400 rpm. I really didn't mind, because the acceleration was much better.

Just a shot in the dark here, but have you greased your 22 zerks fittings lately.

Roadster joints are bare metal to metal. The grease is the only thing in between the two metal surfaces. That one of the reason why the Roadster responds so quickly and has very little slush.

A 23mm front sway bar with polyeurothane bushings will realy help body roll/sway on corners. Coupled with polyeurothane leaf spring bushings in the back will help give you better response like it fish.

Last I remember your shocks were not stock issue and your car was already lowered front and back. Don't what kind of springs you have on your Red Rooster. You might want to ask the previous owner or Mike Young again. One of those two should know what kinds of springs you have in the front and back. Since it was Mike who restored it and sold to the previous owner.

On my car with 195/60-14 Azenis highway speeds of 75-80 mph are about 3800-4100 RPM with the 4.11 and were more like 4100-4400 with the 4.38
I wouldn't want to use a 4.38 for extended cruising (going to Road Atlanta) but it's a great ratio for around town and spirited driving. If it was autocross leagal, I'd still have it in my car.

I turn about 4500-5000 at freeway speed. My 5th gear is really short. That is with a 4.11. I also have a rear swaybar, it is not needed, too much oversteer.

Will

Boy!! You guys really took me to school. Thanks for all the
responses, I read each of them at least twice. Well, I have to start from the basics I guess, check all the zerks, bearings...I will have to do some historical research on this car, believe MYoung was the person last dissected it. Several people that drove the car said engine is pretty solid.
But yes, one of you guessed it. The bolts at the top and bottom A arm were gone when I drove it the first month after purchased. That's when I took it to you Minh, we looked down and saw one nut just barely hanging on. Was really lucky the frame didn't get ahead of me. Now both sides of A arm are welded. But I should check again if that is tight.
All I really want is to turn a tight corner quickly without the car lifting too much. I'll check the alignment and consider new koni's, or kybs. comp springs will be too high for me.

it's monday.

Bespa,
I have a set of comp springs that I really need to get rid of. What exactly did you weld?

Will

My neighbor actually did the welding. There was a round steel plate where the shocks rest at the bottom. That's the part that was pretty much stripped and barely hanging on. He cut out an exactly size plate and welded on top of that...
The car didn't rattle after that. Don't know how long it will stay that way thought. I just didn't want to build a new front end.

now to the next project.

I think the lower spring perch is suposed to be removable. I haven't paid that much attention to the pile of front end parts I have sitting in a box. Perhaps I should pull that stuff out and clean it up.