Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Just curious if this is worth the hassle to put in.

Gregg

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Crank-Sc ... enameZWDVW

I think Sid had something to do with the design. I'd be tempted to try but I don't want to open the engine up at this time. My crank is knife edged so I don't know what it would do for me anyway.

Will

I purchased a couple of these, one for a VG30 and one for the G15 engine in my SP310.
They are very well made but I found I had to profile some edges to gain enough clearance to the rotating bits.
Can't comment of how many horsepower they save but not bad at all for the price
https://nissanman.shutterfly.com/393
You can see the white marker pen where the crank was scraping on the crank scraper
https://nissanman.shutterfly.com/393#394
Fit is excellent and quality is great. Just a wee bit too close in some areas
I bonded the scraper to the engine block with a smear of gasket sealant then used non hardening sealant between the sump gasket and the scraper.
Should be worth a HEAP of horsepower

What if the scraper moved or there was a jolt and it hit the crank? Is that an issue? I don't know anything about these (no surprise) so more info is appreciated. Do other cars use this part? What about racers?
TIA
Linda

That is why I bonded the scraper to the block, so there was no likelihood of it shifting. The sump holes are high tolerance and well placed so it can't go far.
Once it was all fastened down there was no scraping noises so I figure, job done!

Crank scrapers have been used in high performance engines for a long time.
There is also "new" technology for race engines called a vacuum pump.
The engine crankcase is evacuated of vapour and pressure by some sort of vacuum system.
https://www.vpw.com.au/automotive/oil-s ... cessories/
Hardly necessary for your average driver but mentioned for interest sake

I haven't had any experience with taht particualr scraper, but it did remind me of what I went through with the Nismo scraper. I thought it should bolt right in, but few things are ever that easy. So here is what I did to check the clearances with it.

Sorry for not posting the images inline, but some of them are very large and I haven't gotten around to resizing them.

First, I made a template of where the rod cap and counterweight went by tracing their movement to a piece of posterboard.

Big End Profile]

I transferred that pattern to a "negative image", allowing for the thickness of the pan gasket. This template represents the space that the rod cap and counterweight move through.

Pattern Transfer

Then I moved that pattern back and forth across the pan to see if everything would clear. It did on the scraper sections-

Good Clearance

But the raised lip around the oil pump opening had a major problem.

Bad Clearance

I trimmed off some ot the lip and it worked fine.

I have a couple of these crank scrapers. One for a 1500 and one for a 2000. Are they worth installing? What kinds of performance gains are you seeing?

is that Gordon?

Alvin wrote:is that Gordon?

Yup.

On these size engines, i'd think you would see more of a reduction in oil temp from not whipping the oil around as much vs. any real HP savings.

Thread revival....
Anyone use these crank oil scrapers?
http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Datsun-Ni ... DSTER.html

I could be totally wrong but my recollection is that whipped up oil is the main reason that you don't run your oil level over the full mark, and that with it at the proper level that you would get very little whipping.

Like a windage tray
Maybe for a round n round left turn racer it throws the oil to the right
Japanese engineers are all over anything that gets more hp cheaply ,if it gave3- 5 more hp , and had no down side
)They get promoted / keep their jobs that way)
it would be on cars already
The plastic that scraps the rods loosing granuals getting in the oil system and in the bearings ? Crank oil is unfiltered

More info....
http://crank-scrapers.com/What%20is%20a ... raper.html

Interesting and a reasonable price. It's likely that I'll be pulling the motor again before spring to fix the damn rear main seal so I may install one while I'm in there.