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how to get the speedo and tacho work again after swap
Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:11 am
by pooh
If I take a newer engine and gearbox how can I get the instruments to work again or have a nissan engine and gearbox from 1990 to 1998 no digital output signal?
rgs
Holger
Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 7:52 am
by spriso
If I take a newer engine and gearbox how can I get the instruments to work again or have a nissan engine and gearbox from 1990 to 1998 no digital output signal?
Hi Holger,
Welcome to 311s.org!
The speedometer is easy to sort out using a mechanical speedo head instead of an electronic version. I posted a photo and quick description here:
http://www.311s.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=7583
The tachometer is a little harder to sort out. What we normally do is convert to a newer electronic gauge, or have someone convert the stock gauge to run electronic internals-- You need to find a speedometer company that can offer this service to do that conversion and still keep the gauge accurate.
Hope that helps!
Michael Spreadbury
spriso motorsports
Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 9:18 am
by pooh
Thanks for the answer,
what cost the speed sensor 32702- 58S20?
I have seen some information to the try to swap to a VG30DETT
What is the biggest problem if I solv the steering problem.
is the engine room big enough?
What about the nissan skyline engine?
rgs
Holger
Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 9:50 am
by Chris66
Skyline has a RB inline 6, so my guess is that its to long.
Chris
Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 10:14 am
by spriso
what cost the speed sensor 32702- 58S20?
The last speed sensor I bought was about $30 retail from Nissan.
I have seen some information to the try to swap to a VG30DETT
What is the biggest problem if I solv the steering problem.
is the engine room big enough?
In my opinion, the VG30DETT would not be a practical engine swap for a roadster chassis due to its size in both height and width. By the time you package the engine, and then find somewhere to place the turbos, you are going to be out of room. Then factor in intercoolers and a radiator package, there just is not enough room in the roadster's engine compartment to make this a practical swap.
The VG30DETT's gearbox is also much wider than a KA/SR series gearbox (though it is shorter), so transmission tunnel modifications would need to be done as well.
Sure, anything can be done with enough cutting, but if you hope to have something that looks like a roadster when you are done, it is going to be very difficult.
What about the nissan skyline engine?
Again, we are going to run into a packaging issue here. As they sit, most four-cylinder engines just fit into the chassis, and we even clearance the front crossmember on our SR swaps to ease installation.
A straight six could be shoe-horned into the engine compartment (we have seen L-series engines stuffed into the roadster before), but I would anticipate that you would need to build an oil pan, and will definitely need to do transmission tunnel modifications as the RB-series transmissions are much larger than the SR/KA/VG series (early) gearboxes.
Then you still need to sort out cooling, intercooling, and all the other packaging issues that such an engine would require.
If you are talented enough, with deep enough pockets, and have the fabrication skills, then nearly any Nissan engine swap can be done. But as I like to warn people, engine swaps require more time, effort, and money than most people can invest...
If you want to swap in a late-mode Nissan engine, my recommendation would be to look at any of the RWD Nissan engine packages from the late 80s on. I would recommend KA or SR-series engines first (then the CA and FJ-series to a lesser extent) as they are well documented, and fit the chassis with reasonable modifications.
Hope that helps,
Michael
Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2008 1:46 pm
by pooh
Thanks Michael,
that was exactly what I wanted to know.
To me, I have make more than one engine swap on Volvo´s e.g.
Volvo Amazon with V70R engine and 300HP
Volvo 262 wit T6 engine and so on.
I always needed to move the turbo´s and build a oil pan.
The reason I ask was that a SR20DET is really expensive in Germany and Sweden. And I got a very good offer for a VG30DETT.
Do you have exploded assembly drawing from the different engines?
That would make it easyer for me to find a usefull engine.
rgs
Holger
Posted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:44 pm
by dbrick
You could always buy the VG30, resell it, and then go get a 4 cylinder. What is the ultimate goal, modern reliable or all-out performance, or both?
that will influence the choices.
Volvo B230F or FT would be a cool swap too.....nice torque.
Posted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 3:55 pm
by pooh
Hi,
the goal is performance out of a modern Nissan engine, if I rebuild a old car I try to use an engine from the same poducer. In my Volvo´s I use
Volvo engine, in my Opel Rekord B6 Coupe I used a Opel engine.
I think I could use a Volvo V70R engine with 300HP for the Roadster, but my goal will be to find a Nissan engine. Do you have en idea which is possible and know someone what all have to be done to get a VG30DETT installed, or where to get a SR20DET for a good price in Europe.
Rgs
Holger
Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 2:26 am
by Alvin
pooh wrote:Thanks Michael,
that was exactly what I wanted to know.
To me, I have make more than one engine swap on Volvo´s e.g.
Volvo Amazon with V70R engine and 300HP
Volvo 262 wit T6 engine and so on.
I always needed to move the turbo´s and build a oil pan.
rgs
Holger
Please show us pictures!! Isn't the V70R engine mounted transversely?
Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 10:43 am
by ppeters914
The 510 folks produce a quarterly newsletter appropriately named
The Dime Quarterly. Last year, they had a terrific two-part Engine Swap Guide co-authored by our own Mr. Spreadbury:
Volume 7 Issue 2: Part I - US-sourced Nissan alternatives to the L16
Volume 7 Issue 3: Part II - Japanese domestic market (JDM) Nissan alternatives to the L16
These include weights, dyno figures, and owner impressions. Part One is now available online:
http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/ ... ept1.shtml
Although geared towards 510 owners, it's still good reading, and might answer your initial questions. There's also this Engine Swap forum and the TechWiki:
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... ngineSwaps
Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 7:13 am
by pooh
Alvin wrote:pooh wrote:Thanks Michael,
that was exactly what I wanted to know.
To me, I have make more than one engine swap on Volvo´s e.g.
Volvo Amazon with V70R engine and 300HP
Volvo 262 wit T6 engine and so on.
I always needed to move the turbo´s and build a oil pan.
rgs
Holger
Please show us pictures!! Isn't the V70R engine mounted transversely?
That’s right that the V70 engine mounted transversely, but this is still the same engine as the R6 from an 1991 960 Volvo, just the first cylinder is cut away. You can use the manual and automatic gear-box from a 960 or V90 and some other parts from the R6 engine.
If you want to know more, send a PM so you get all info’s
rgs
Holger
I try to add pic´s from the Amazon in the next days!
ppeters914 wrote:The 510 folks produce a quarterly newsletter appropriately named
The Dime Quarterly. Last year, they had a terrific two-part Engine Swap Guide:
Volume 7 Issue 2: Part I - US-sourced Nissan alternatives to the L16
Volume 7 Issue 3: Part II - Japanese domestic market (JDM) Nissan alternatives to the L16
These include weights, dyno figures, and owner impressions. Part One is now available online:
http://www.dimequarterly.tierranet.com/ ... ept1.shtml
Although geared towards 510 owners, it's still good reading, and might answer your initial questions. There's also this Engine Swap forum and the TechWiki:
http://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki.p ... ngineSwaps
Thanks a lot!
very good stuff!!
rgs
Holger
Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2008 9:42 am
by pooh
spriso
The tachometer is a little harder to sort out. What we normally do is convert to a newer electronic gauge, or have someone convert the stock gauge to run electronic internals-- You need to find a speedometer company that can offer this service to do that conversion and still keep the gauge accurate.
Hope that helps!
Michael Spreadbury
spriso motorsports
Hi Michael,
I don’t know if you are interested, but I’m a Volvo fan and I searched for a solution under the Volvo parts.
What I find was the Tacho from a Volvo 850 which is available for 7000 rpm and 8000 rpm, both fit very well to the roadster’s scale.
The holes for the scale fit to the Volvo tacho and the needle from a 1968 to roadster fit also to the tacho, for the earlier roadster the hole in the needle is smaller you need to make it bigger or use a later needle.
The only one you have to do afterwards is to build a holder which fit to the cabinet body from the tacho.
rgs
Holger
Re: how to get the speedo and tacho work again after swap
Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2008 9:59 am
by JFBrink
Hey, Holger,
Thanks for that bit of information. I was going to go with the innards to a BMW tach, since it goes to 7000 in the same sweep as the early Roadster. But, I don't think the holes match up as well as you say they do on the Volvo. I'll grab a Volvo 850 gauge next time I'm at the JY and see if it works.
After all, I need confirmation that I'm turning a constant 0 RPM with my swap!
Jesse.
PS - I have a '66 Amazon to complement my '66 Roadster.