Replacing a rusted out floor pan.

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Nissanman
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Replacing a rusted out floor pan.

Post by Nissanman »

I have recently tackled the job of replacing a trashed LHS/passenger side floor pan.
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What I started with.
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Old panel laid on replacement. New panel will be 50cm x 50cm approx.
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Folding the floor channels on a sheet metal brake.
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Completing the channel folding by hand.
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Old panel overlaid on the new.
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Comparison of the new floor panel with the RHS/drivers side.
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All set for tack welding.
I have re-produced the drain hole, chassis mount hole and drilled a series of holes along the leading edge where the floor is to be plug welded to the firewall flange.
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Panel has been tack welded on 3 sides.
Apart from a bit of clamping required along the trans. tunnel edge, the shape was right on.
Amazing how a few pressed in channels can make a flat sheet so rigid.
I have posted a more complete information on My Shutterfly in "My Fairlady" album, pics. 400-424.
http://www.shutterfly.com/view/pictures.jsp
After I finish this repair, I'll get some new sill/rocker panels folded up and fit both sides with fresh metal.
That, boys and girls, will be a story for another day :wink: :)
Last edited by Nissanman on Tue Jul 15, 2008 9:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
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datsunrides
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Post by datsunrides »

Very nice job! Coming from someone that has first hand done what you are doing, I know the degree of work involved. Even if I didn't bend my own tin :oops:

Mark
1966 Roadster
Turbo / EFI U20 (T25 w/ SDS EMU.)
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Danny_Vilato
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Post by Danny_Vilato »

where do you get the replacement panels from? Do they come with the grooves already in place?
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ppeters914
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Post by ppeters914 »

Graham MADE his own replacement panels, including the channels ("grooves") from a flat piece of sheet metal.
Pete
-------------------------------------
'67 1600 - frame off started in 2014. Now I know why roadster projects take so long. What a stupid idea. :smt021
'66 1600 - parts car
'66 WPL411 ***SOLD***
A couple of Porsches, a RAV4 Hybrid, and a motorcycle
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Danny_Vilato
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Post by Danny_Vilato »

Wow! :shock: That is amazing. I wish I had tools to do that.
What is the thickness of the sheet metal for our bodies and frames?
Thanks in advance,
Danny
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ppeters914
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Post by ppeters914 »

Ya know, now that I think about it, didn't someone mention that Ross at Sports Imports has replacement panels? Won't hurt for ya to ask:

Tel: 604.538.5615
Fax: 604.541.8095
Email: info@sportsimports.ca
Pete
-------------------------------------
'67 1600 - frame off started in 2014. Now I know why roadster projects take so long. What a stupid idea. :smt021
'66 1600 - parts car
'66 WPL411 ***SOLD***
A couple of Porsches, a RAV4 Hybrid, and a motorcycle
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Nissanman
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Post by Nissanman »

Ya know, now that I think about it, didn't someone mention that Ross at Sports Imports has replacement panels?
Yes, they are available, but initial cost + freight to Oz was more than a Koala could bear.
Making a custom panel meant I could dimension it to fill the void and not have to worry about making up any short fall to the parent panels.
The sheet cost me ~$4 and 1 afternoon on the Sheet Metal Brake and vice and VIOLA!
The channels were a bit of a pain since I could only bend 2, of the 4 directions per channel, in the Brake.
I finally worked out that if I clamped it all between some correctly dimensioned bars, I could simply straighten the sheet by hand and at the same time it would neatly form the remaining 2 directions :idea:
What is the thickness of the sheet metal for our bodies and frames?
This panel is made from 1mm zinc annealed mild steel.
It is the same thickness as the original.
The Roadster Body generally uses 1mm, 1.2mm and some 1.6mm thickness sheet.
The Chassis is thicker, more like 2mm from memory :?
You would have to measure each panel you want to repair to ascertain what thickness the patch needs to be.
Trust me, it is easier to weld like thicknesses than unlike :roll:
I wish I had tools to do that.
It is my humble home workshop :wink:
With all the bar, plate and tube I have lying around it was just a matter of pick'n'choose till I found something to do the job.
The Sheet Metal Brake is only 30" long but it does the job just fine.
It may be big enough to do the sill panels that I need to make, I'm not sure yet.
Sometimes I wish I had all the whizz bang metal forming gear, but it is never going to happen so I make do with what I can afford :roll:
Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
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Nissanman
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Post by Nissanman »

Today I welded in the replacement floor panel.
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3 sides done, plug welding still to do at the firewall flange.
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Cabin side view of repair.
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Now that looks a bit better!
The welded seams will need a little smoothing with my grinder.
Once it gets a coat of primer, you won't be able to tell the difference :wink:
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What it looked like before the surgery.
Last edited by Nissanman on Tue Jul 15, 2008 9:13 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
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Nissanman
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Post by Nissanman »

Finished off the welding this morning :)
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The special pliers have a copper backing plate to prevent the weld from sticking. The forked top plate enables the plug weld to be performed on the 6mm hole.
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Completed plug welds. Each weld is 35mm apart to replicate the spacing used on the original floor panel.
Don't mind telling you, I'm glad that's done and pleased it turned out so well 8)
Now, just for something different, I'll move on to the LHS/passenger sill panel :roll:
Nissanman, just trying to help.
1965 SP310 Engine No. G-93326 Car No. SP310-10817
https://photos.shutterfly.com/album/60141836519
On the road again!
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