Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hey there! As I come closer to the moment of truth, my tech questions increase. I wanna know what type of engine oil I should put in my engine. After total rebuilt, and considering that the car had 36,000 original miles on it when stopped, I don't know what oil is recommended, and how much with the original oilpan.

Also, should I use 91 octane gas? any additive or booster? and last but not least......what size (amp) battery should I use?

Thanks everyone........I can't wait to hear this baby roar!!!!!!

Jorge

Big Question! Did you use any assembly lube? If not. STOP!!!!!!

If yes, use the recommended oil for our climate. 10W-40 Additivive can't hurt. Use a good oil filter. Napa and WIC makes a good over the counter filter. Don't even bother using a Fram filter.

Synthetics are nice. Some of us live by Redline oils.

I tend to stick to High Milage Formula 10W-40 oil with Dura lube. With a Dura Lube booster with every change even on new cars.

It's your car and your buget.

Speaking of budgets, Roadster only take Premium Unleaded. Sorry. However get add a fuel treatment to clean out the crud in the tank, fuel lines, and carbs.

And far as batteries go, it depends on how much excess electronics you put it above what is the stock in the car. The Roadster has a 35A Generator for late models. Not a whole lot of juice for peripherals at all. If it is stock get the minimum. Otherwise I say, stock or not, a big cranking battery that will closely max the limit of the starter and will fit in your car. A little bit goes a long way. To much Amp and you will fry the starter.

I forget what the amp limit for the starter is. Can somebody answer that?

BTW: Just so its said, on your first time crank disconnect the plug from coil to the disributor. You will want to flood and prelube all the oil gallies and journals. Let it crank for about a 2-3 minutes. Then reconnect the plug to the coil. It is also recommended by my older mentor folks to change the filter and oil again after first 30 miles too. This will get all the major metal deposits from the initial start out of the start, assembly lube crud, anything else flushed to the bottom on the pan. They said better safe than sorry, and it will only cost 4 quarts and a filter.

Minh wrote:Big Question! Did you use any assembly lube? If not. STOP!!!!!!.

If you didn't, you ought to pre-lube the engine. Remove the dist. and drive gear from the block. Using a reversible drill (I'm pretty sure it has to spin "reversed") with a long screw driver blade chucked up, sping the oil pump drive until you see oil comming out onto the rockers. then put it back together and get ready to start it.

Minh wrote:BTW: Just so its said, on your first time crank disconnect the plug from coil to the disributor. You will want to flood and prelube all the oil gallies and journals. Let it crank for about a 2-3 minutes. .

Better to pull the plugs out of the head so that the starter doesn't work against compession if you do this. Not needed if you do the above pre-lube just prior to starting the engine. Also, I crank mine only until I have pressure showing on the gauge - by that time, the rest of the engine has oil. If you don't want the coil to fire, pull the wire to the points (negative of the coil primary side) so that it doesn't have any chance of arcing to some nearby ground.

I change my oil and filter after 100 miles. Stay with non-synthetic until break in is complete. Then switch to synthetic if you want.

Minh and Brian:

Thank you. you provided me with very useful info that I'll put to practice. Good news is that I did use assembly lube on all the important places (bearings, cam, rockers, tappets, etc, etc). I really got all the answers I needed for proper start-up from you, which is greatly appreciated.

I'll keep you posted on "the Day"........!!!!!!!!!

Jorge