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What donor cars do I get my engine swap candidate from?

Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 9:40 pm
by DANSS454
Hello Everyone,
I am new to the Roadster world, so bear with me. After 20 years of Chevelles, I sold them off and bought a Raodster project.

I have tried to become familiar with the roadster internet sources for information and such, and this seems to be a good site for questions. I have been warned of the high cost of getting the U20 in my project rebuilt (parts costs, i would do the labor). So, i have been looking on the web at what others are swapping in to their cars--SR20DE?'s, KA24's etc. all sound great, but i was hoping for a solution more basic. I see mention of an L20 (or L16 L18) swap, but i never see what cars people are getting these donor engines from. Can someone list what cars to get suitable L series motors from and what to look for? Am i better off spending the money on rebuilding the U20? Another reason i am researching the L series swap, is that I have a pair of SU's that people have told me supposedly go to the "L" engines (the guy at the swap meet literally parted the truck out before i could see what engine it had, but he sold me the carbs cheap), so i would be good to go there.

If there are good resources for U20 parts that i may have missed, please let me know (i've only seen vendors' web sites that are common). I have a spare U20 and transmission, so it would make sense to try to resurrect one of them--but money is an issue. After 20 years, i did get the engine to start and run, barely (i had the help of Keith with carb parts), but i had to keep the choke on and idle it high. It's puking oil somewhere out the front of the engine, and that has me worried, so that is why the L engine swap sticks in my mind (people seem to like the "bulletproof"ness of the L, along with parts availability).

Thanks,
Dan
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Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 2:06 pm
by ppeters914
Still learning this stuff, but I can provide some short answers.

The L-series are SOHC, iron block/aluminum head, double roller timing chain, and five main bearings. Here's a good matrix of the engines and what cars had 'em:

http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/l-series-engines.htm

L's did not come stock w/ SU's. Check out the Spotter's Guides from ZTherapy:

http://www.ztherapy.com/

More L-series specs and info:

http://www.the620.com/620tech.htm

Hope this helps.

thanks for the information!

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:01 pm
by DANSS454
Thanks. Those are really good links.

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:15 pm
by dbrick
What U20 parts do you need, I have a bunch of misc.

My swap motor came from a Range Rover 8) (Of course it's still in pieces)

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:48 pm
by DANSS454
dbrick,
thanks for the offer. i have two engines, one in the car and one in a crate. i have had the one in the car running, barely, for a little while. It was puking oil out the front area, and someone has said it might be a timing chain wearing through the front cover--but i haven't looked. I assume i need the timing chain anyway, since the car has about 70k miles on it (or 170k?). I am thinking that i will rebuild one of the U20s, so i am trying to price out what all it is going to take, and just where i can get the parts.

If you have some timing components or a complete setup, then i would be interested. if you have some other "often used in a rebuild" items then i would be interested in them, too. I am new to this Roadster thing, so i am really just gathering sources and prices now. I also want to get the U20 in the car to run, if at all possilble, and see what kind of shape it is really in (i'll investigate the leak, obviously).

thanks again,
dan

Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 10:54 pm
by dbrick
I have a probably good timing set. Easiest check is pull the valve cover and look for grooves worn in "the evil L" (search it in Tech WIKI).

Be very careful re installing the valve cover, they tend to crack about 1/16th of a turn before it feels tight. Where are you located?

Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 3:00 pm
by nomadtrash
I really think that a KA swap will be cheaper and easier than rebuilding a U20 or swapping in an L-Series. You could probably sell the two U20's and trannies and recoup most of the KA investment. If you are going to all the trouble of swapping then why not do it with a motor that is cheap, powerful, and fuel injected? They are also readily available, mount kits are for sale, and there is a large knowlege base.

Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 8:21 pm
by datsunrides
If you are going to swap, the KA is probably the best choice among Nissan engines for these reasons

1- Cheap and readily available. Lots of 240sx are being/have been swapped to SR's
2- Parts easily sourced
3- Lots of torque. Great for the street
4- Your choice of fuel injection or carbs
5- Lots of aftermarket support. How fast do you want to go?

Now, I am building a U20 currently and I can tell you it is not cheap to rebuild one of these. If you rebuild a U20, figure about $2500 to do it correctly. Not exactly cheap. Mine, with "performance modifications" is costing substantially more, but hey, to each their own.

Mark

Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 11:24 pm
by dbrick
From reading, no direct knowlege, the KA looks like best bang for the buck. You can be economical to start and go nuts on it later if you want. Depending on where you get the KA, you can part out the donor car and get some $$$ back too.

I'm doing the V8, but it's mostly just to see if I can do it, and as far as I know, it hasn't been done.

Posted: Mon Aug 20, 2007 4:09 am
by ppeters914
nomadtrash wrote:I really think that a KA swap will be cheaper and easier than rebuilding a U20 or swapping in an L-Series. [snip] They are also readily available, mount kits are for sale, and there is a large knowledge base.
Spriso makes SR20 motor mount kits, but who makes KA mount kits?