Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I have 2 books on this car and neither have the specs on this torque setting. I also can't fine it in here. Anyone know? Thanks

According to the Factory Service manual:

"On reassembly tighten the pedestal bracket securing nuts a little at a time working diagonally from nut to nut, left nut of No. 1 pedestal bracket, right nut of No. 2, left of No. 3 and so on returning from the left nut of No. 4 bracket and repeating the process until they are all tight."

I couldn't find any reference to torque settings either.

Thanks, I guess it's not that critical.

I agree, probably not.

Does anyone have torque settings for the 1600 rocker towers and the rockers? I searched and did not find.
TIA

Linda

35 ft/ lbs.
You're welcome Linda!

Hey Mike,
Thanks for the torque values for the rocker towers. One stud stripped at about 20 lbs last week and had to be helicoiled. That was exciting. So i am wondering about the 35 torque. If the stud has any oil on it is the torque lower? Seems like 20-25 was very tight.I have a beam torque wrench, so very accurate. Just don't want to strip another stud and have to do another helicoil.
thanks for any thoughts,

Linda

There is always a disclaimer on torque charts when the fastener is being torqued into aluminum.
I think that you should be in the 20 ft/lb pound range.

Check out this torque calculator for a 10mm fastener to get a better feel for what your are doing. Also try out the different types of alum for the female threads to get a comfort range.(with and without lube)
http://www.futek.com/boltcalc.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;"
Ray B.

I agree with Ray,....for the record, the torque value can be found on page 31 of the Clymer Datsun Sports Car, 1600 and 2000 Models Through 1970, Handbook and Service Manual.

It's listed in a table regarding the R Engine cylinder block specs and referring to "Torque wrench setting: Rocker bracket nuts.....30-35 ft. lbs.

I have personally r/r the rocker assembly from my R16 aluminum head many times with out issue using 30 - 35 ft/lbs. YMMV.

scotty wrote:Thanks, I guess it's not that critical.

I had 2 of the studs strip the threads in the head on a 68 1600. Ended up heli-coiling the head, all was well. Torque settings are usually for a dry fastener, an oiled fastener can increase the clamping force significantly and may cause the threads to fail even at the right torque wrench setting, so be careful. I torqued mine with all the rocker arm adjusters loose, so there was no pressure on the rocker shaft to distort the torque reading, It wasn't in the book, but seemed to make sense.

i mentioned the oiled stud because this is not a new engine build, obviously, so the stud will have a bit of oil on it and I was wondering how that changes a torque setting. Also i assume the engine must be cold, just like torqueing the head.
As for Ray's reference, I wouldn't know what type of aluminum, or what grade of steel of the stud to do the calculations, but i am sure that others can find it helpful. Thanks Ray.

Linda

Linda:

I always use a tap on the hole and a die on the bolt and then clean them really well before I use my torque wrench.

Shannon

sfdaugherty wrote:Linda:

I always use a tap on the hole and a die on the bolt and then clean them really well before I use my torque wrench.

Shannon

Yup. I shoot brake cleaner in the hole and on the fastener before assembly.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the stud should go into the head just snug, then the nut gets torqued onto the stud, so having dry threads on the nut and the top of the stud should be easy, BrakeKleen, as Pete mentioned.

BTW, this stuff is GREAT if you can find it.

Studs should NOT be torqued into a hole or bottomed, even though that's how most folks install them.