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wiper arm assymbly removal?

Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 3:54 pm
by 67.5 SPL311
I checked the forum to find this topic to no avail. Can someone tell me how or point me to the post on removing the wiper assymbly with motor from my 67.5 1600? I was thinking that the nuts under where the arms go would come off, but it doesnt seem right. Is it right? Thank you all who reply!

RE:Wiper Pivot Removal 67.5

Posted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 7:25 pm
by S Allen
Well, I will take a stab at this one. The nut that holds the pivot securely in place is the chrome nut on the top. They are a bear to get off with out destroying the pivot itself. I tried gentle persuasion first. Then heat and rust penetrate. No go. I finally ended up using a hack saw blade to cut the darn nuts so I could take it apart without destroying the pivots. I think it has a lot to do with them being dis-similar metals so they fuse together more or less. I used the nuts and rubber grommets from an MG to put mine back together. The part numbers for those are listed on the main site some where.

Steve

Posted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 4:16 pm
by 67.5 SPL311
(Sigh) OK... Thank you Steve for replying. I guess kind of new that those nuts would have to come off, but of course I was hoping I was wrong and that there would be some secret Datsun Roadster handshake and they would "magically" twist off :?

Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2006 7:48 pm
by exit64
Try Maltby's penetrating spray. Spray it on, let it sit overnight and then spray it again. I don't endorse many products but I swear by this stuff. You should be able to get it at any good auto parts store. I used it to get all my bumper bolts out and didn't break one. The key is to be patient and let it do its thing.

Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 1:31 am
by ppeters914
Never heard of Maltby's (well, other than a road north of me :mrgreen: ), but a similar discussion recently on the Bluebirds list extolled the rust-busting properties of Kroil and Winzer, and both being significantly better than PB Blaster.

Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 11:51 am
by exit64
Weird,
I just googled Maltby Chemical and came up empty. I get it from E&L Auto in Hood River and it is amazing stuff. They also make carb cleaner and electrical connection cleaner. It all works great. Anyway, a good penetrating fluid will most likely do the trick if you let it sit for a while and dose it up a couple of times. The key to any of these type of products is patience. You might also try an air or electric impact driver. Might do the trick and not destroy the nut if you go easy. I feel your pain though. The wipers on the 70 need to be either lubed up or rebuilt and I am dreading getting under that dash again. I don't know why you are bothering with the wipers though, as I know it never rains in Kennewick. :shock:

Posted: Wed Dec 06, 2006 4:08 pm
by 67.5 SPL311
That was funny about Kennewick. Very true too! I do however enjoy the drive through Hood River on my way to Portland, especially right about where that bridge is that spans over 84...that's where the coppers park. Sneaky if you're not looking up.(Thinking out loud) Is that Hood River? I think that's where that bridge is.....anyway, back to the penetrating oil.
I have been watching that Chop Cut Rebuild on the Speed channel and I have been seeing them using that penetrating spray a lot. I Also plan to use it to drench the steering box where the shaft meets it. I've been reading the horror stories about them being a pain to remove. Body mount bolts too. So if you haven't guessed, I'm doing a body off restoration. If I can get enough of you to say that the wiper arm assymbly can make it through a sandblasting process, I'll take the motor off the assymbly and leave the rest. But something tells me this may not be a good idea. Thank you again guys.

Re:

Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2022 7:41 pm
by 111jag
ppeters914 wrote: Wed Dec 06, 2006 1:31 am Bluebirds list extolled the rust-busting properties of Kroil and Winzer, and both being significantly better than PB Blaster.
Just bought some Kroil. $50 for 8 ounce tin. Didn't work. Had to cut the bolt off. Is the chrome washer under the bolt just as hard to remove? What do I have to do?

Re: wiper arm assymbly removal?

Posted: Sat Jul 02, 2022 7:56 pm
by Bwk2000
16 years … That has to be a record!

BTW - The washer should just pop loose with a few light taps of a hammer and flathead screwdriver (Should be a rubber washer and thin nut under the chrome washer).

Re: Re:

Posted: Sun Jul 03, 2022 4:19 am
by DAC21
111jag wrote: Sat Jul 02, 2022 7:41 pm
ppeters914 wrote: Wed Dec 06, 2006 1:31 am Bluebirds list extolled the rust-busting properties of Kroil and Winzer, and both being significantly better than PB Blaster.
Just bought some Kroil. $50 for 8 ounce tin. Didn't work. Had to cut the bolt off. Is the chrome washer under the bolt just as hard to remove? What do I have to do?
$50 :shock: Anyway, I haven't bought it yet, but I have heard / read good things about a penetrate called mouse milk which is used a lot in the aircraft industry. Amazon sells it for about $14, but it can be had for about half that if you have an Aircraft supply store nearby.

Update: can not be sold / shipped to Kalifornia :x

https://www.amazon.com/Mouse-Milk-Oil-8 ... C7170?th=1

https://pilotshq.com/products/mouse-mil ... usemilk8oz

Re: wiper arm assymbly removal?

Posted: Mon Jul 04, 2022 2:14 pm
by notoptoy
It's got to be good, they have banned it in CA!