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Posted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 11:51 pm
by Daryl Smith
Dave,
You have three+ choices for a stroker.
3 main block with 1500 crank, choose rods (r16, h20), CUSTOM pistons.
3 main block with H19 crank (hard to find), h20/u20 rods, u20/h20 pistons.
5 main block with H20 crank, rods and pistons.
For my money (and experience with 1500 crank), I would say the 5 main, H20 parts would be the easiest and cheapest, and definately more powerful than the 1800cc that the 1500 crank works out to.
The H20 rods are lighter, and strong enough, so that would also seem to be the way to go. Although you could go with the R16 rods and custom pistons, but haven't done a cost comparison on pistons lately. At one point there wasn't that much of a difference between Custom and U20 pistons.
My $0.02
Posted: Fri Sep 01, 2006 12:07 am
by dbrick
Well, I havbe a three main crank, motor number around 1400. So if it is a stroker, will prob just get a whole h20. Checked the fuel pump, no spacer, just a 1/2 " thick mounting flange on the pump with 2 bolts.
Pull ot the pump tomorrow hopefully
Posted: Fri Sep 01, 2006 11:10 am
by Dave
From deep in my memory banks, I think if you short out each cylinder one at a time, the knock will change when you get to that cylinder.
Dave, you nailed it. That's exactly what you need to do. Us EFI guys pull the injector connectors one by one to isolate the bad cylinder. I don't see any reason why you could not do the same test by pulling plug wires. Just turn the car off before disconnecting and reconnecting the plug wires!
Posted: Fri Sep 01, 2006 8:01 pm
by DatsunBucky
Unless you're really into that shock therapy scene...
Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 8:21 pm
by spl310
dbrick wrote:Checked the fuel pump, no spacer, just a 1/2 " thick mounting flange on the pump with 2 bolts.
Well, did you swap it out? If so, is that it? I bet it is...
Posted: Mon Sep 04, 2006 9:10 pm
by dbrick
I'll get the gasket first. As far as the plug wires, I have the cool high voltage tongs, good for 100,000 volts.
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 11:03 pm
by dbrick
Update, did the cylinder kill test, no change, didn't get shocked, even in the rain.
Removed fuel pump, it DID have the spacer, think it sounds the same.
I'm going to change the oil, maybe straight 40 or 50 and try again and adjust the valves a bit tight. Who knows,. rain should stop tomorrow. If it doesn't stop raining, I'm going to get back to work on the ark
Posted: Tue Sep 05, 2006 11:51 pm
by Datrock
Hi Dave, on the noise you mentioned above. Have you checked the valve springs to see if one of the inner springs maybe broken.
I once had a tick in my 1600 that made more noise than the lifters. It was coming from the front of the engine, first I thought it was from the #1 cylinder. It ended up being a broken roller in the timing chain.
Once I isolated the noise with a small hose to my ear I narrowed it down to the timing cover area. I removed the cover and everything looked fine until I removed the chain and inspected it. It took awile to find it but once I cleaned the chain, 1/2 of one roller was gone. I replaced the chain and the noise went away. If it happened to one 1600 it could happen in another... Bill