brake parts sticker shock

Post by **ppeters914** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 6:32 pm

From another topic...

dbrick wrote:Which brake parts are so painful? I have some sources....

Can't remember whether I posted this on another thread or not, but I finally put the roadster up on jackstands a couple months ago to check out the brakes because, well, they no stoppie no more!

What I found was rotten brake hoses and leaking, frozen caliper pistons. Easy to tell they were frozen as the rotors were rusted with no evidence of recent brake pad touching. Oh, yeah, the nearly new brake pads were soaked in brake fluid. No muy bueno.

Rotors are somewhat grooved and measure just barely past minimum thickness.

My best guess is that the only brake I had was the rear shoes.

Pulled the front bearings; grease not quite burnt, races ain't pretty shiny.

Funny thing is that maybe the master cylinder is good, but won't know for sure until the rest is done. So, if you look at new parts, the damages are:

calipers/cylinders: $300
rotors: $200
brake pads: $ 40
brake hoses: $ 60
bearings & seals: $ 80
================
TOTAL $680

Those are ballpark figures, but you get the idea. I plan on running the existing rotors for a while (or buy Al's), and I'm still gonna try rebuilding the cylinders, but if unsuccesful, then more miles earned on the Visa card.

Wanna guess what was the first thing I looked at, and the first thing I tested on the PL411 I recently acquired?

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:36 pm

A couple years back I replaced every component in the brake system and made all new hard lines. It was not fun, not cheap, and nothing I want to do again. That's why I thoroughly flush my brake and clutch systems every 4 months!

Victor_laury · Post by **Victor_laury** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:26 pm

It's well worth the money. The engine can run as good as can be, but you'll never be able to use a roadster as a true sports car until the brakes are fixed right. Once done, stock brakes are mostly trouble free and really a great brake systen.

I don't grudge the expenditure. I really like to dive into the corners. The only way a can bring myself to do that is the trust that the brakes will be there, at the last possible instance.

Howard R · Post by **Howard R** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:36 pm

You guys in the cooler climates got it made. My electric bill for 2 months service during the LA heat wave was $ 490.00! So 6 bills for a good brake overhaul seems reasonable.

garth · Post by **garth** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 10:19 pm

Would you believe $76/month for electric? Natrual gas at $140/month though.

I am not suggesting anyone move here based on the cost of utilities as "starter house" in Vancouver goes for over a $1M

Makes one consider living in his roadster though.

garth · Post by **garth** » Thu Aug 24, 2006 10:31 pm

Actually less if you are earning it and paying our income taxes!

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 7:56 am

you'll never be able to use a roadster as a true sports car until the brakes are fixed right.

Back to the topic at hand, Vic nailed it with his comment. The brakes on my roadster have always been dismal. That has turned my "sports car" into what amounts to a dumb muscle car. Sprinting around in straight line bursts of acceleration, only to have to start slowing down what feels like miles before any corner. Then creeping my way through the corner in fear that I may have to stop suddenly and not have the goods to do it.

Post by **spl310** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 8:28 am

Dave,

Are your brakes still bad? Have you checked the rotor thickness and the drum diameter? If they are out of spec, the brakes will not be up to snuff. If they are in spec with good pads, your eyes will bulge out from locking up the brakes...

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:41 am

Sid, yes, they are still bad. I finally got around to having the rear drums checked and they were waaaaaaay out of spec. I have a spare set that measured out OK so I need to get them cleaned up and installed.

Last time I checked the front rotors they were within spec but it's been a while. Do you have the measurements off hand? I found them and wrote them down at one time and they are long since lost! I'd like to re-measure just to be sure.

Post by **spl310** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:05 am

I found this really cool site that has all kinds of info on Roadsters. In their section on front brakes is says "New rotors are approximately .433" thick with a minimum thickness of.325". " Hey, wait a minute! That was THIS site!

If Russell Roach reads this, perhaps he can offer some tips. One tip I would offer is to get the brake brace if you don't have it. It makes a world of difference!!

Dave · Post by **Dave** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:39 am

OK, I deserved that. Instead of spending 10 minutes searching for the notebook that I wrote the specs in, I should have been searching here.

I do have the firewall brace already. I really think it's now just related to the drum (and possibly rotor) thickness. All the other components are new.

Post by **ppeters914** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 3:40 pm

Umm, it appears my comments may have been interpreted as complaining. Sorry for the confusion. I just wanted to respond to an off-topic comment so it wouldn't get buried.

I agree one shouldn't skimp on brakes. If they need rebuilding, then rebuild/replace 'em and do it right. My roadster is parked until that is done.

I also agree that the cost is not totally out-of-line compared to newer vehicles. Whatever the cost is, it's still cheaper than a brakes-failed accident.

My point is that the car ain't coming off the jackstands anytime soon because I don't have $600+. I have to purchase the parts a few at a time. I was just surprised and shocked because, 40-yo car or not, almost -EVERYTHING- needs replacing at the same time.

I look forward to

El Sid wrote:If they are in spec with good pads, your eyes will bulge out from locking up the brakes...

Post by **dbrick** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:58 pm

I rebuilt my master cylinder, all 4 front caliper pistons and am getting the kits for the rear. Not hard to rebuild, but very messy, don't do anywhere near a painted surface, cover the car if working in the garage. There is slight pitting on the front caliper bores, not severe. If I see fluid, i'll replace them. Master cyl took 2 tries, stripped those annoying little bolts on the first. I would like to find a source of stainless steel sleeved parts, there are some rebuilders out there doing it. If the same price as NOS, it seems more worthwile to buy parts that will not rust.

As Mark pointed out, most of these parts took 30-40 years to get to the point of needing replacment, most probably with the fluid Datsun put in at the factory for the first 10 years. Fluids are better, and most of us over-maintain, so this will likley be the only time you buy hydraulic parts.
It's just painful on the initial cash outlay. Luckilly, the "new" 66 has 2 new master cylinders.

Redtail · Post by **Redtail** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 11:47 am

Apple Hydraulics resleaves calipers for our cars, but they are labled as E-type calipers on their website. Prices are comparable to brand new, so it's a judgment call on that one.

http://www.applehydraulics.com/brakes.htm

spyder · Post by **spyder** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 12:37 pm

Anybody for stainless?

http://www.hyedracyl.com/datsun.html