How much should a complete 69 2000 parts car go for?

GoldHawg · Post by **GoldHawg** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 10:07 pm

I have a line on a 69 2000 that is complete, but has been sitting for at least 10 years. EVERYTHING would have to be redone. But given that it has the complete 2000 engine/5speed combo, what is it worth (97k mileage) just from a parts car perspective? Obviously it is whatever someone will pay--but I'd like your opinions.

Thx!

Import_sounds-of-mid-GA · Mon Jul 31, 2006 10:37 pm

personally, if i had $700 right now and i had a daily driver, id be happy to fork it over for what youre describing.

nking79 · Post by **nking79** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 4:58 am

Parts cars seem to have such a wide range in quality. It really depends on how it was stored and the exact condition. If the car looks good cosmetically, but just has some mechanical issues from sitting then you might be in a better position.

Conner · Post by **Conner** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 8:26 am

I'd say $800 to $1200 based on your brief description. If the sheetmetal and interior are in excellent condition it could go higher (maybe $2000).

Post by **ppeters914** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 3:26 pm

Your question says "from a parts car perspective", but are you planning on resurrecting it or parting it out?

If it's complete and been sitting protected, it might be nicer to keep it together. '69's have that unique teardrop running light.

Just a thought...

katman · Post by **katman** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 6:21 pm

My feeling is it's better to find a good-looking runner, and make it look great. It will cost less (and take less time), than starting with a cheap non-runner and pouring money into it.

Not everyone has the money to shell out up front. I've gotten lucky, finding a cheap 1600 non-runner that didn't take much to fix it up. My feeling is, I wouldn't pay more than $2000 for a non-running 2000, unless the body was near perfect. You don't know what you're getting with that engine or trans. I got lucky with a 2000 non-runner I bought dirt cheap. The engine was supposedly blown, but all it had was a spun bearing. Can't always count on luck though. So I wouldn't pay more than $2K even if using it as parts (probably would pay up to $1K).

Post by **ppeters914** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 8:24 pm

Ahhhh, I like your comments better, Fred.

I'm still kicking myself for passing on a '66 that was 85-percent done for $4k for a $2.5 runner that's turned into <trumpets>, The Project! If I only knew then what I know now...

Yeah, $2k tops and hope you don't have to do a complete rebuild on that U20. Then again, ya might git lucky!

katman · Post by **katman** » Tue Aug 01, 2006 11:29 pm

Pete - I kick myself from time to time! I've got a 68 frame-off project that I started 10 years ago. Only now am I getting the guts to abandon it.

However, my '66 was a 85 percent done car when I bought it. I still poured thousands into it but I was always happy having it. My other cars are junk, and would cost too much money to make nice. A 1970 1600 daily driver rust bucket, and the 1968 2L and another 1970 1600 project. Only 1 nice one in the 4 cars.

Post by **ppeters914** » Thu Aug 03, 2006 3:38 pm

I don't regret my purchase. I still think I got a good deal, just not a great deal, which the other '66 was - I just didn't know it at the time.

My only real complaint is NOT having the $$$ to pour into my '66. Right now, I'm just hoping to get the brakes fixed so I can get a few drives in before the start of the Annual Pacific NW Rain Festival.

Yeah, I hear you. We're trying to get the courage to decide whether to fix or sell the '71 Porsche 914 my wife has owned since '76.

...and then there's the '66 WPL411 w/ an L20 I drove last weekend (boy, did that remind me of our 510 wagon). "See, honey, it only needs a little work to be a daily driver. I can toss my bicycle in the back, drive it in the rain, and it'll get 20+mpg. If you want, I'll sell it once the roadster is running and reliable." She wasn't buying...sigh...

GoldHawg · Post by **GoldHawg** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 8:23 pm

Here are some pics of subject car

Looks to have pretty much everything, and its always been a CA car.

Post by **itsa68** » Sun Aug 06, 2006 8:51 am

I would guess the car would be worth about $2500 if the frame, floorboards, trunk floor, outer/inner rocker panels , front inner fenders , rear inner wheel wells and rear fender flares are not rusted out.

All the glass would have be good and the softtop frame would have to be available to to keep the price up.
With a majority of stock items still on the car , the car provides a good pattern to follow for restoring.
The more missing items found, the more the price would go down.

The above $ would be in regards to looking at it for a solid chassis/body to rebuild and having the majority of stock parts still on the car.
It would be a bonus if the bumpers or other items where in good enough shape for re-chroming considerations.

Not knowing the history of the powertrain, I would have to summize that an expensive rebuild would be required or otherwise consider the possibility of swapping it out for something else.

The pictures seem to show that the body has no side marker lights.
Unless they were were removed and openings were patched over, I would venture to guess that the car is actually a 1968.

Ray B.

Post by **spl310** » Sun Aug 06, 2006 10:34 am

This may sound odd, but that looks like a perfect restoration candidate. Follow me on this before you fall out laughing. The drivetrain, other than being desmogged, appears pretty unmolested. The body appears to be solid. Other than the side trim (which I assume is stashed somewhere), the car looks complete. Plus, the owner says it was running when parked. So, if the engine is not stuck, you can probably get it running. The bodywork looks substantially complete. The interior is complete, but ratty. Since the car looks horrid with the leaves, trash and dirt, the owner sees not much value. If your mind's eye can see past that, it is a solid car, that needs a good cleaning, a tune up, brake rebuild, an Earl Scheib paint job and an interior kit. If my assessment is correct, you can be on the road in a fresh looking 2000 for under $4000.

Purchase: $2500
Cleaning: $20
Tune up: $75
Paint prep: $100
Paint job: $200
Interior kit: $1000

That gets us to $3900 bucks. Some of the prices are high guesses. I am sure that you can get the car for much less than the $2500. If the door panels and such are good, reuse them to drop that price. If you already have cleaning supplies and sandpaper, then the cleaning and paint prep prices drop. Most roadster guys have tuneup stuff lying about. If you do the Rustoleum paint job, that price drops to $50.

Just food for thought...

Post by **spl310** » Sun Aug 06, 2006 10:35 am

BTW, what is the can of SPL100 on the fender in the first photo?

Ldino21 · Post by **Ldino21** » Sun Aug 06, 2006 6:58 pm

So, Did you get it??

How much did you end up paying for it??

Lou Smaldino
64-1500
65-1500
66-1600
67-2000
67-1600

GoldHawg · Post by **GoldHawg** » Sun Aug 06, 2006 10:05 pm

Haven't purchased yet. I'm sure I could get for less than $1K. I will think about it--but I don't even know where I'd put it; I have a number of other projects I'm working on. And then I deploy to Afghanistan in Nov for 5 mos (in the Air Force). The car has been sitting there for the last 10 yrs; don't think its going anywhere tomorrow. Besides, I would prefer a really nice 1600 for say 2-3K that I could swap in a fuel injected engine. But it is intriguing, and though I'm not a good body expert the body does appear solid, and the frame looked relatively rust free. I do think it would make a good start for restoring.

The guy says the timing chain failed twice (once on him and during the repair he said he saw signs that it had happened before). He put new rings/bearings but no overbore. so a good place to start.