First project

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nking79

First project

Post by nking79 »

I want to start a project this week. Since the car is new to me and I don't know much about it's condition I'm thinking that I want to clean up the wheel bearings and brakes. Not that there's anything wrong with either of those (that I know of), but I want the car to run well.

Being the first time I ever do any work on a car, is this a good place to start? Any suggestions for another place to start?
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Conner
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Post by Conner »

The brakes are a good place to start. I would bleed the entire system and replace the brake fluid. Also, removing, cleaning, and repacking the wheel bearings with grease is probably a good idea. Beyond that maybe a tune-up (distributor cap, perhaps new spark plugs) and new air filter may be in order. Also an oil change and new filter never hurts on a newly acquired vehicle.
Andy Conner
SRL 311-01633
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datsunrides
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Post by datsunrides »

I will add to that list the following. Since you are inspecting the brakes, it may not be a bad idea to repack the rear wheel bearings while you are at it, inspect the front suspension / steering and change out the fluids in the diff and trans. New fluid in the clutch hydraulics and new coolant in the rad wouldn't hurt either. If you get ambitious, it would be wise to replace the belt(s), hoses, and thermostat if there is any question of how long they have been in service. Don't forget to adjust the valves with the tune up.

Mark
1966 Roadster
Turbo / EFI U20 (T25 w/ SDS EMU.)
TR

Post by TR »

Conner and Mark are on it, you want to replace fluids...But don't stop at just the brakes! Top off the battery, back flush the radiator, oil and filter (especially if it has sat for any time), fuel filter, carb bowls, etc. Flush it all and you will be happy you spent the time! And don't forget all of the zerks, they want grease! TR
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JoeK
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Post by JoeK »

Hmm...

While I tend to think that brakes are basically pretty simple, but I don't know if I'd suggest them as a first project. They are your basic safety equipment, and if they fail... Well, it's kinda hard to stop.

How does your cooling system work? Maybe it's a good idea to make sure you have a 3 row radiator. Why not check the fluids in your tranny and rear end? Even change them out to higher quality Red Line fluids. Or try finding and greasing all your zerk fittings. Heck, how about a basic oil change? Rebuild your fuel pump lately?

These are all projects of varying difficulty, that you can perform and if you don't get it right, you're not risking your life. Just my 2 cents. If you decide to do the brakes, let me know when and where you'll be test driving it. :lol:
Joe
Former owner of:
'68 2L
BLK SRL
sold 12-11-2012
67 1/2 1600

Post by 67 1/2 1600 »

Flushing fluids, with new is always good. Dont forget to drain your tank while you are at it with new fuel! Dont want old gas in your engine :shock: ! Oh yeah might as well do a frame off while you are there too hehe.
nking79

Post by nking79 »

The engine that is going in the car is fully restored and has new plugs, new air filter, etc. Its a stroker engine and should be very complete (has fan, carbs, filter, etc). Also, I have a gas tank that has been cleaned up - inside and outside. Since the car isn't running yet, I have the time to work on the brakes, but won't be able to test them for a few weeks. I took the FR wheel off yesterday and snapped this photo:

Image

As for the radiator, I have two in my garage:

Image

Any way to tell if those are two row or three row? How do I tell if it's in good condition?
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shifty
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Post by shifty »

For the radiators, just look them over for obvious damage. Then take them to a good radiator shop and have them test for leaks and blockage.
Leigh Brooks

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dbrick
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Post by dbrick »

Look in between the thin zig zaggy fins at the vertical tubes with a flashlight. You should see 2 one in front of the other if it's a stock 1600 Rad. you might be able to look in the hose nipples and see the top (or bottom) of the tube and count the rows.

With no prior experience, #1 get a book, or two on the roadster. Also, only disassemble one side at a time, that way you have the other side for reference, although it may be a mirror image. Ziplock bags and a magic marker for any nuts and bolts. Digital camera pictures as you disassemble are good too.

Easy stuff, get a brake master cylinder brace from one of the many suppliers. If the heater hoses are there, flush it with garden hose.
Clean and paint the inside of the engine bay and visually inspect all the wire harnesses before the engine goes in. Anything that looks suspicious, strip off your other car for a spare.
Change the gear oil in the trans, rear and check the steering box

I would do the grease fittings first, leave the calipers assembled and do the wheel bearings, If you haven't done this before, read the tightening procedure very carefully. test the brakes to see if the calipers or wheel cylinders are seized, if they are don't screw around rebuilding them, just buy a new set and be done with it It's worth the money. If the brakes work and the rotors and pads aren't bad, bleed it and drive it (carefully at first) Make sure the parking brake really works.
While it is apart, get good penetrating oul on the brake bleeder screws and some down the center hole of the screws. This way you are ahead of the game when it comes time to bleed the brakes.

As far as the brake fluid, I used a Mighty Vac power bleeder, was well worth the money. If you get out this way, you are welcome to borrow mine.
If you don't already know, don't get brake fluid on the paint, will do un repairable damage. Even fluid on your hands and then touching the paint. The blue non latex rubber gloves are good. Buy the big bag at Harbor Freight.

Dave Brisco

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