volvo conversion

moon runner67 · Post by **moon runner67** » Mon May 01, 2006 6:12 pm

I am looking hard at the conversion for my car. I have followed the thread and read the write up. However my parts store does not list a '75 240. 242,244, 245. If this was a ford I'd have a far guess on what was interchangable. Are these all the same brakes?? What am I missing here? Thanks in advance. Yup it's fast don't stop but it goes really good!
Denis

TR · Post by TR » Mon May 01, 2006 10:24 pm

I think Alvin (alving) may have a set for sale...The main thing to look for is the NON-vented, Girling caliper from the 70's Volvo sedan. Good luck! TR

shifty · Post by **shifty** » Tue May 02, 2006 12:34 am

For '75 240 would be the generic term for 242s, 244s, and 245s. The should all share the same front brakes.

SLOroadster · Post by **SLOroadster** » Tue May 02, 2006 2:12 pm

I still have to ask why? The stock setup is bigger, the pad size is smaller, however it uses more of the rotor. The Volvo setup is heavier, has more leak points, and will warp more easily. Put a set of Porterfield R4S pads on and you will stop on a dime. If you want to go more exotic on the pads, try a set of KFP Blues, they squeel a little, dust some, but when you can turn the rotors blue and still stop well, I'd say they are pretty good. Even the vintage race guys will tell you that with the right pads, these brakes are really good.

Just my $0.02

Will

TR · Post by TR » Tue May 02, 2006 7:11 pm

Cost and swept area. How will a Volvo setup warp more easily? If anything, it is less prone to warping as it runs cooler than stock with high friction pads.

I would much rather have a more expensive setup that works equally well and squeels...

Post by **ppeters914** » Tue May 02, 2006 7:43 pm

I believe Alvin's Volvo stuff sold the same day he posted it.

moon runner67 · Post by **moon runner67** » Tue May 02, 2006 8:50 pm

OK All,

Here's the deal. All I want is for the the damn car to stop when "I" want it to stop. Right now it doesn't stop at ALL. I am looking at the Volvo conversion because it offers an option. When my roadster is done it will look like a roadster. It may not perform like a stock 1600 but it will be "my" car. I rebuilt the calipers only to find the rooters were wore out. I am looking for opinons.
Thanks, Friar

DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Tue May 02, 2006 9:45 pm

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TR · Post by TR » Tue May 02, 2006 11:49 pm

Totally agree, you cannot patch up a faulty sysytem just by adding new calipers.

I always forget that people think this is a serious performance upgrade, maybe the write up on the conversion should state that the volvo caliper is just a way of saving money on a daily driver, that the only performance gain is the ability to absorb more heat and who needs that for the street?

Post by **ppeters914** » Wed May 03, 2006 6:00 pm

I rebuilt the calipers only to find the rooters were wore out.

I am sweating that's what I'm gonna discover on mine.....sigh...

DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Wed May 03, 2006 6:28 pm

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moon runner67 · Post by **moon runner67** » Wed May 03, 2006 6:47 pm

OK stickerman, I'll go at this one more time, and if it works well...you don't even need a turkey come dinner time.
Denis

DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Wed May 03, 2006 6:54 pm

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Conner · Post by **Conner** » Wed May 03, 2006 7:03 pm

The stock rotors were NLA from Nissan when I looked into it last year. I looked around and the only aftermarket application for roadster rotors was from Disk Brakes Australia. That does not include interchageable rotors from another model.
The vendors have DBA rotors for around $230/pair. DBA rotors in Australia cost around $85 US/pair. Freight is expensive enough that I bought my rotors here from a vendor. However, if 10-15 people split shipping they may be able to save some cash on a large order.
I have my used rotors that I will sell cheap if anyone is interested. They are just about as thick as the new ones I got (should have checked that out before I bought the new ones).

TR · Post by TR » Wed May 03, 2006 9:41 pm

Stickerman - You have a point, I guess it depends on how much of the work you plan on doing yourself and how much of your brake system needs replacing. Since I needed an entire new system and did most of the machining (I had the OD of the rotor turned at a shop with a larger lathe), I saved really big on the master cylinder (40 instead of 150+) and the labor. Also, the loaded calipers were not much more than the price you reference for just the caliper. I remember a quick look at it the few years ago when I did it was a couple of hundred dollars difference and any future maintenance was again hundreds cheaper...