GTI-R manifolds

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bontrager_steel
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GTI-R manifolds

Post by bontrager_steel »

Hey guys,

Got my car out this year to sort through some of the bugs I wasn't able to resolve before the snow flew last year and noticed a small problem on my exh manifold. It was kinda cracked in a few places :lol:

I know the problem(s) with my original design (i.e. cantilevered the turbo without properly supporting / used mild steel / didn't use a thick enough wall stock). But I am debating do I make another out of stainless or try another route?

I know that the log style manifold is popular. But when I originally ordered that kit, I got what appeared to be plumbing fittings and didn't have the heart to put that on my wonderful little roadster. So I made my own frankenstein and am now back to square one.

This week I purchased a cast manifold from JGY Customs out of Virginia. It is supposed to be a more effiecient version of the Pulsar GTI-R manifold. Now that I have it - I think it looks alot like the log manifolds and not as nice as the pulsar manifold.

I thought I had seen a topic somewhere on here before about the pulsar manifold - but now cannot find it. Has anyone tried? If it is simmilar it appears as if it could be a bolt on.

Mr. Spreadbury if you are reading I would greatly appreciate your input :)

I posted pics here for those of you who are interested.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLandin ... 3381518106
(cut and paste should work - and don't worry, you shouldn't need to sign in. just click the pic and start the slide show)

Any feedback is appreciated - thanks.....

Thomas
Thomas
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spriso
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Post by spriso »

Good morning Thomas,

First off, great photos of your SR conversion, it looks like you have done a good job, and have paid attention to the details. Kudos to you!

As for your manifold question, the only reason that log manifolds are popular with guys doing an SR20DET swap is the lack of real estate in the roadster’s engine compartment. A log manifold will allow you to pull the turbo in nice and tight to the block, and let you bottom or top mount the turbo depending on your application.

A log manifold will not be as efficient as a tubular or even the stock manifold, but it will allow you to get the turbo into the engine compartment. To me, the power loss is not as critical as the fitment of the turbo, I would rather have the turbo fit nicely, than worry about that last bit of horsepower—believe me, there will be plenty to get you into trouble!

Yes, we would all love to have a tubular, equal length manifold, but the steering shaft, body, and frame all are going to come into play here and more than likely there is not going to be enough room.

Now your JGY cast manifold is very interesting. A cast manifold will handle the weight of a turbo, and will more than likely give you many years of service without cracking—something to think about. To me, it looks much better than a log manifold, and I like the fact that it appears that it is going to clear the steering shaft. The photos are kind of small, so it is a little hard to tell for sure though. What I do worry about though is the clearance for the turbo at the frame. I assume that you are running a stock T25 in there, I just don’t see a T28 fitting in that small of a space.

I have never tried a Pulsar GTI-R manifold on a turbo SR conversion, but it would be interesting to see what the steering shaft/frame clearance would be like.

Also, could I get some higher resolution shots of your conversion; I would love to add them to my library! Send me a PM and I will shoot you an e-mail address to send them to!

Thanks, and keep up the good work!

Michael Spreadbury
Spriso motorsports
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SR20 Powered Roadsters
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bontrager_steel
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Post by bontrager_steel »

Michael - as always thanks for the feedback.

FYI - I just ordered the pulsar manifold from Nissan Motorsports (I am hoping with O.E. heatshield). WHen I fit it up I will post pics again.....
Thomas
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bontrager_steel
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Post by bontrager_steel »

Hey all -

Good news, you no longer need to make a log manifold! I updated the previous ofoto album with new pics of the gti-r manifold (see post #1) I will post part numbers for it and the heat shield later.

I already purchased a T28 and need to fab a new down pipe and tweak my intercooler plumbing, but I think it should work. If anyone sees any potential issues from the pics let me know, otherwise I will try to feed back in a few weeks.

Yesterday got my RB25DET in my 240 running so I want to finish that first so I can get to work without having to borrow a car anymore : ) As soon as it's done......or at least roadworthy, I will get back to the roadster. After all - can't put the top down on an s14!
Thomas
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bontrager_steel
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Post by bontrager_steel »

status update.......basically - I am dumb : )

So, obviously the turbo layout is a given for a rear wheel drive vehicle. But, for a fwd vehicle it could go either way. When I finally bolted up the pulsar manifold and the turbo as I wanted it interferes with the block.

As I have already had the new turbo for over a month and the manifold was a special order item (i.e. can't return it) I am still going to try. The exh will drop down the front (not so bad), need to notch the frame a little (regardless of t25 or t28), and the difficult part....

With the intake coming off the back I have two options. (1) run in through the gap between the frame and the body into the wheel opening. benefits are cold air, easy routing. Bad point is potential for water and dirt. Have to make a whole lot more duct work for the airbox.

Other option is turn 180 and packagage in the engine bay. It will just be more cluttered is all.

Well if anyone has any thoughts please feel free to share. Here's hoping to drive my car this year! : )
Thomas
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Post by Dave »

Post some pics so we can see what you are talking about.

I don't know about you but pretty much without exception, whenever I have cut corners or done something a little odd to take advantage of things I already had, or to save a buck, I ended up either making waaaaay more work for myself or not being happy with what I did and doing it over the "right" way.

Example 1) Got great deal on a new aftermarket Honda Civic radiator. TR and Spriso both said "don't do it. It's too small for the turbo motor. Get the Fluidyne version of that radiator." I didn't listen and after the first 75 degree day, ended up replacing the new radiator with a Fluidyne unit. That was a waste of $129.

Example 2) Got 5 boxes of free white tiles that looked perfect for my bathroom remodel. It wasn't until after I got the full shower surround tiled and pulled the protective blankets back from the tub that I could see that compared to the very white tub, the tiles had a pinkish hue to them. Oops, didn't go with the walls, floor, cabinets, or counter tops at all. Hmmm, I saved probably $100 on a $2,000 remodel and ended up with a tub surround I hated.

Food for thought....
Dave Kaplan

68 2000 Roadster - Now with GT2560R power!
SR20-DET: 223 rwhp, 222 lb-ft.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/698904
DELETED

Post by DELETED »

DELETED
TR

Post by TR »

Alvin - running the exhaust out the fender is an option, I considered it and it appears that there may be more space, but decided to run it in the more traditional spot.

Another option (if you are hell bent on using the manifold), make an angled spacer between the header flange and the turbo to move it off of the block. Shouldn't cost more than $100 if you draw it yourself.

I think you will be more pleased with the final product if the exhaust is coming off the back...
bontrager_steel
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Post by bontrager_steel »

dave / TR / alvin? -

thanks for the feedback. Sorry it has taken me a while to respond. I've been off galavanting in the land of rice and giesha!

Dave, I know where you are coming from. I as well have made this mistake (which I am potentially making again now) but I gotta follow it through. I need to know if it will work, otherwise I will always question ya know? Guess I am just a little stubborn : )

TR - personally I am not so concerned about the exh coming out the front. It will just be U shaped instead of c shaped. Add 6"-10" of additional tube (no big deal as it's 2.5). Still has the same number of 90 degree bends right? So restriction shouldn't really change?
I thought about the spacer as you are mentioned. But then I have to worry about longer studs, clearance to the frame and the column, not sure what else? In terms of cost I am not sure how much it would cost to have a machine shop make me a flange, especially if I wind up doing it by trial and error (and I seem to be good at the error!). I know that I can cut and clock all of the exh and intake tubing within a day at fixed cost, so I am probably still going down that path.
I am more concerned with the intake plumbing. I have potential to to suck a whole lot of dirt or add stupid restriction depending on my routing. I won't really be able to get a good idea until I finish the frame mods and put the body back on though. Either way....I just cannot submit to the log. I have fought it for too long! : )

Anyhow, hopefully by the end of july I will have some updates for you all.

Happy motoring....
Thomas
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bontrager_steel
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Post by bontrager_steel »

Hey guys - sorry I have been delinquint about updating. Everything has been put together for about a month, but I haven't been able to drive yet. Still chasing harness demons.

I was lazy and never took care of my mess o' wire and am now paying the price. I think I have most of it cleaned up (too close to 3ft out of my harness by cutting/soldering/heat shrinking) BUt still getting fault code 11 (CMPS). I am going to run a new sheided wire and connector this weekend which will hopefully resolve the issue.

I posted a few more pics (sorry - only 3) which show the manifold and turbo mounted up with my new down pipe. I have other pics and I will try to update the link tonight. Basically from the messing around that I have done, everything packages - but I didn't allow enough clearance to the frame when I was notching. So under heavy accelleration the turbo casing does touch. Besides that I haven't found any problems........but I haven't driven it yet either : )

I wound up routing the intake up next to the brake cylendar and then forward over the Exh manifold. I'v got the stock heat shield but still want to do something else here. LIke I said I will try to post some more pics tonight or at the latest this weekend.

cheers....
Thomas
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Post by spriso »

Looks good Thomas! Nice job on the downpipe...

I am looking forward to seeing more photos of your swap!

Michael
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Post by Dave »

Cool! You even get to run the stock catch can.
Dave Kaplan

68 2000 Roadster - Now with GT2560R power!
SR20-DET: 223 rwhp, 222 lb-ft.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/698904
bontrager_steel
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Post by bontrager_steel »

ok - posted a few more pics with the body on and the plumbing completed. sadly - still doesn't run :cry:

I got an issue with my harness supplying power to the Camshaft position sensor so I ripped out my pain in the A$$ (painless) fuse box and am now using some parts I scavanged from various nissan donor parts cars. Hopefully I get to drive it before I have to wear a sock hat....but either way the top will be down!

And sorry to dissapoint dave, sadly I am not clever enough to maintain the stock catch can location. That's still one of those loose ends I need to figure out.....eventually :wink:
Thomas
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