L20 Powered roadster!

67 1/2 1600 · Post by **67 1/2 1600** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 5:24 pm

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-R ... 1469QQrdZ1

Not bad! Even has rare Empi's.

Import_sounds-of-mid-GA · Tue Mar 21, 2006 5:46 pm

Anybody that has ever said anything about my hood now has to take it back....

datsun65 · Post by **datsun65** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 8:08 pm

Saw the same roadster (listed as a 69 2000) for sale on ebay:

http://tinyurl.com/ehjhy

I was looking closely at the pictures and noticed that the engine isn't a U20..Looks like a L Series Engine... I've always liked the L-series roadsters..Plus, it looks like it is running a set of EMPIs

But, what is interesting is that the engine is sitting quite high in the engine bay.

It looks like the car has a double hood scoop to clear the valve cover and top mounted single carb.

The car is listed as a 1969, but is missing both the front & rear fender markers. So, I figured it must be a 1968...But it has the rear panel license place lights from a 1970 and a 1970 rear bumper.

The owner states:

THE MILEAGE IS ORIGINALLY 83,129 MILES

I can't exactly figure how this is original milage with an swapped out l-series engine.

Again, I'm actually a big fan of l-series powered roadsters (I've owned two of them). This car looks like a fun ride to taunt those Big texas SUV with...just hope the potential ebay bidders realize what they are purchasing...

Dan

DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 6:35 am

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datsun65 · Post by **datsun65** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 12:59 pm

That double hood is horrible, I would rather cut the frame

...Don't cut the frame..You should hammer it out...

DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 1:33 pm

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DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 6:46 pm

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DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 7:44 pm

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SLOroadster · Post by **SLOroadster** » Wed Mar 22, 2006 11:26 pm

It still could be a 69, mine doesn't have marker lights or the rear plate lights either. An L20, well at least they didn't do any cutting (as far as I know it will fit.) If it were me, I'd have stuck with the R16. Its got a litttle less go, but belongs in the car. You have to do some serious work to make decent power out of a L20B. A long rod L20 could be fun, but to do that much work, the U20 is back to being the way to go.

Just my $.02, not that anyone cares.
Will

TAP63 · Post by **TAP63** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 9:48 am

It seems to me that if you're going to swap in an engine where you have to make the car ugly, it should be an engine with so much power that nobody cares that it is as ugly as a late 70's Z28 Camaro. My apologies in advance to Evan.
The hood scoop on a hood scoop. Is that a new design craze sweeping the country?

albert1 · Post by **albert1** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 5:46 pm

I was thinking of doing the same to my 67 1/2 but, now I think I'll save some $$ and re-build the existing R-1600. That brings me to my question what is the "R" and "L" stand for on a R-1600 and L-1600 engine?

JoeK · Post by **JoeK** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 6:02 pm

Biggest difference off the bat is that the L series engines have overhead cams.

Victor_laury · Post by **Victor_laury** » Thu Mar 23, 2006 6:04 pm

albert1 wrote:That brings me to my question what is the "R" and "L" stand for on a R-1600 and L-1600 engine?

It's just the engine series.
S20 <6 cyl racing motor Skyline "GTR" Z 432
L20A~28 6cyl Z, Skyline, Laurel, Cedric
L13~20B 4 cyl Bluebirds 70's trucks
R16
U20
A10~15 for the sunny line (B10, B110, B210, B310)
G15 for the SPL310
E, E1 Early cars/truck
J13~15 Trucks, Forklifts, generator sets, PL410 cars
There's a whole bunch more, including limited production engines (LY, UY)
KA
SR
RB
G <modern FWD sentras