Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Finally going to do it probably next weekend on my r16.

Planning to take the grill out to make it easier.

I know the general operation just curious if anyone has tips that made it easier for them.

Check out https://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki. ... ineRemoval

Take your time & make sure everything is disconnected.

Peace, Pat

Using a load leveler also helps to tip the drive train as it is lifted out & put back in.

In addition to Pat's advice, Will's demo applies equally well to the R:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmaYlvkvEQM

Jon

Drain trans first? I hear the 4 speeds leak out the tail.

Also, does anyone know if a metric 4 speed tailshaft will go onto the SAE 4 speed body? I know the reverse switch is different.

I think the internal bronze bushing must be the source of my tail shaft leak after trying 4 or 5 seals (the driveshaft yoke is smooth and fine), and found a good one on ebay to swap. The bronze bushings are NLA and having one custom machined would cost more if I could even find a place to do it.

Mark the hood bracket mounting locations before removing the hood to align the hood upon install.

As Pat said, make sure everything is disconnected including electrical, tach and speedo, and the thing I almost always forget, the gear shifter.

Put blankets or fender work pads on the fenders and over the front cross brace - just in case

Always good to have someone pull back on the cherry picker while you lift the transmission tail over the fender or front cross member as seen in the video. I have done it alone but it's not as fun.

Be prepared to dump lots of antifreeze on the floor when you tilt the engine. It doesn’t matter how well you drain it beforehand it always seems to dump about a quart on the floor. Especially annoying if you’ve forgotten to undo something on the underside.

I'd recommend putting expanding foam on the frt.glass with wood panel over it , just in case

I have a load leveler. Will try to pad everything. I'm doing it solo so it will be a little sketchy

I read it's better to leave the hinges on the hood

Once you get the oil pan over the front cross member, pull the engine forward so the tail of the transmission is clear of the fire wall. Lift the tail and push the trans/engine forward from the tail, hopefully the cherry picker will roll forward. Once you clear the car, rotate the engine to be perpendicular to the car and let the tail drop. Lower the engine/trans onto whatever you plan to hold it. I use a moving dolly that I got from harbor freight. Use some 2x4s to make it level on the dolly

Protect the end of the tranny at the rear seal with foam / cut up tennis ball. Chances are it will wack on the concrete going in or coming out. That casting will chip at which point good luck keeping gear oil from not leaking.

cbez wrote: Fri Apr 18, 2025 10:12 pm Also, does anyone know if a metric 4 speed tailshaft will go onto the SAE 4 speed body? I know the reverse switch is different.

I think the internal bronze bushing must be the source of my tail shaft leak after trying 4 or 5 seals (the driveshaft yoke is smooth and fine), and found a good one on ebay to swap. The bronze bushings are NLA and having one custom machined would cost more if I could even find a place to do it.

The bushing is available "Datsunparts is life" somewhere in the midwest. It is used in a 240Z

C.Costine wrote: Sun Apr 20, 2025 7:20 pm

cbez wrote: Fri Apr 18, 2025 10:12 pm Also, does anyone know if a metric 4 speed tailshaft will go onto the SAE 4 speed body? I know the reverse switch is different.

I think the internal bronze bushing must be the source of my tail shaft leak after trying 4 or 5 seals (the driveshaft yoke is smooth and fine), and found a good one on ebay to swap. The bronze bushings are NLA and having one custom machined would cost more if I could even find a place to do it.

The bushing is available "Datsunparts is life" somewhere in the midwest. It is used in a 240Z

if it is I can't find it

cbez wrote: Sun Apr 20, 2025 8:34 pm

C.Costine wrote: Sun Apr 20, 2025 7:20 pm

cbez wrote: Fri Apr 18, 2025 10:12 pm Also, does anyone know if a metric 4 speed tailshaft will go onto the SAE 4 speed body? I know the reverse switch is different.

I think the internal bronze bushing must be the source of my tail shaft leak after trying 4 or 5 seals (the driveshaft yoke is smooth and fine), and found a good one on ebay to swap. The bronze bushings are NLA and having one custom machined would cost more if I could even find a place to do it.

The bushing is available "Datsunparts is life" somewhere in the midwest. It is used in a 240Z

if it is I can't find it

Nor can I. How about a link, C.Costine?