Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

In an ongoing quest to get all my gauges functioning properly, I have researched the sites past posts and the wiki. My temp. gauge and fuel gauge are showing the classic signs of the voltage regulator being bad. Of course I started with the possible simple fix of reversing the wires, but to no avail. Out comes the volt meter. 12 volts in, 12 volts out. Hmmm. As an inexperienced mechanic/auto electrician, my normal first response is purchase a new VR. On to the vendors sites. YIKES!! So, reluctantly, I pull the VR apart. The filament wire is loose. Also I see no indication of the mention black "ground" tab mentioned in several posts. My car is a 67.5 1600. Im going on the assumption the the VR is the same for all models but maybe not?
Any way, on to a few simple questions.
Does this look like it might be repairable? If so, where does the filament wire attach? Where is the mentioned "ground" tab suppose to be? Or should I just order the simple parts listed in the wiki post, and attempt to build a newer, (better) one?
Getting ANYTHING shipped to my remote location in Baja is a huge pain but doable. Thus my preference to salvage the OE one.

I believe there should have been a small clip that held the wire on the edge of the circuit board in the small recess. When the regulator is assembled, it makes contact with the case. The case also needs to be mounted to the car to supply the ground.

If that doesn’t work, there is a write up in the tech section on how to replace the guts with a solid state voltage regulator.

Peace, Pat

Seems a few folks have mentioned just using some contact cleaner (better yet Deoxit) and reflowing solder joints fixed their issue. There is also this fix . https://www.311s.org/pmwiki-311/pmwiki. ... VoltRegFix

Disregard the links for the IC and PC cable, they are dead. But those items can be found cheap on Amazon if you can get reliable Amazon shipments down in Baja?

Here you go: -

viewtopic.php?p=339704&hilit=voltage+regulator#p339704

Thanks to all for the replies. Thanks to DAC21 for the link that addressed my question about the loose filament wire (see photo above) and member DENNISWAGNERUSA for providing the precise info that my wee brain required. Following his instructions I was able to reconnect the filament wire and create a more reliable ground connection. Still some adjustments to be done ,but the results are as follows:
Temp gauge was always pegged at hot after just a few minutes of engine running. Now it is registering an actual temperature, albeit not an accurate one as yet. Gauge is reading 135 (F) at operation temp. Actual temp per infrared gun was 165 at temp sending unit.
Fuel gauge was at constant full with key on. After the repairs, it was reading 1/4 full. Drove into town and filled up and gauge is now reading slightly over 3/4 full.
So, an improvement to be sure, but more work to be done.
Now to research the posts I've seen in the past about adjustment screws on the back of the gauges. And watch some YouTube videos on contortionism.