Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I know this group will have suggestions. I am near the end of the 4-year body off frame restoration of the '70 1600. Mostly stock, but desmogged and set up like a '67. All back together now. I ran the engine while frame only, and made sure all the forward and reverse gears worked off the ground, but of course did not have my clutch hydraulics in place, so just cranked it in each gear. All looked good at the time. Now reassembled and have my brakes and clutch hydraulics in place, but the clutch will not disenguage - cannot put it in gear with engine running. Here is what I have tried so far:

Bench bled the clutch MC before installation and bled the system with Motive, no luck, then bled with a helper, no love. Re-bled the MC in the car by performing a bench-bleed in place, abd re-bled the slave with a helper. Double checked to make sure the clevis pin is tight and no wallowing of my hole/fitting. All good. Adjusted the threaded rod at the slave cylinder in both directions. I am getting a full throw of the clutch lever, but no luch getting it in gear (basically trying reverse and getting a hard grind - double clutching and pumping make no difference.

I am wondering if I incorrectly installed something in the clutch upon assembly. Throw out bearing? I followed the instructions in the Roadster Book.
I am not new to wrenching, but it was my first total rebuild and installation. Looking for informed suggestions. I do not relish pulling the engine and transmission now that everything is buttoned up. Can the clutch be examined while the drive train is in place? You guys will know. What do you think?

If you put a 5 speed in you car, you will need a 5 engine to transmission plate or 2 four speed plates. Most likely that is the problem as the input shaft is hard against the crankshaft, and will make it seem like the clutch is not working properly.
Dave

It is possible to install the clutch plate backwards. If so, it would stick to the flywheel or the pressure plate and not be able to disengage.

Bwk2000 wrote: Sat Oct 19, 2024 9:22 am It is possible to install the clutch plate backwards. If so, it would stick to the flywheel or the pressure plate and not be able to disengage.

That's my bet.

Thanks for the responses. It is the original 4 speed transmission, so I am thinking the backward clutch plate sounds likely. Can that be verified/inspected without pulling the engine?

No

If it makes a difference (I don't think it does), I used the heavy duty 2000 clutch that Dean sells. I do not look forward to pulling the engine, but I know that is where this is heading. I will update you all as I solve this issue. Maybe it will save someone else a headache to have this in the archives. For now I am going to let this mature and sleep on it for another week or two. I am re-reading the Roadster book installation for now and trying to remember what I probably did wrong. Thank you all for your quick responses.

Good luck Mike. Keep us updated.

Update and question. Engine is out and I have accessed the clutch. When I insdtalled it I followed the directions on page 53 of the Roadster Book Part II "Be sure that the extended (longest) portion of the clutch disc center hub faces the flywheel". However the picture on page 188 of boiok I shows the extended portion facing the pressure plate (clutch cover). Reverse instructions!! I have turned the disc around, but also discovered that I might have mis-installed the release arm originally asince it fell apart on disassembly. Now I am wondering whether to reassemble with the clutch disc as I had it or reversed. Does anyone have a definitive opinion before I put it all back together? Right now I have the extended portion pointing away from the flywheel.

Photos
As a rule ...old style flywheels are flat 1 plane ,so the 1 plane side of the clutch disk matches with it
Are the alignment studs in the back of the engine to Trans mounting ?
I'd bet of the 20 clutch jobs /problems
I got only 20% had both pins or sleeves
If you tightened the P plate all the way to the flywheel it can damage the clutch plate

roadsterdude1600 wrote: Wed Nov 27, 2024 12:29 pm … Does anyone have a definitive opinion before I put it all back together? …

Mike:
The part of the clutch disc that is protruding outward the most has to go toward the pressure plate/transmission. The flattest side always goes towards the flywheel (on any vehicle).

Thanks Kai. I was satisfied that your response is correct after research and was relieved that I had not pulled the engine for nothing. I had it backward, and now have reinstalled the engine and ready to button everything up and give it a try. Thank you all for the resppnses. BE AWARE that at least my version of the Roadster Book Part II gives incorrect verbal instructions on assemply as outlined above. For once in my life, I followed instructions and ended up having to pull the drivetrain to fix the issue! <page 53 of the Roadster Book Part II "Be sure that the extended (longest) portion of the clutch disc center hub faces the flywheel". However the picture on page 188 of boiok I shows the extended portion facing the pressure plate (clutch cover).>

Upon examination of my clutch disc I found the marking T/S on the non-flat side. Transmission side, I suspect. Should have looked closer the first time. I hope this thread saves some future idiot like me from doing this twice! I'll update y'all when I get it in gear in a week or two.

Thanks for pointing out that publication error Mike. I’m sure you’ve saved someone a lot of unnecessary grief down the road.

A simpler solution would be if the vendors selling the clutches were to put a sticker on the disk saying flywheel side. A lot of DIY clutch kits used to come with a sticker that would indicate which way to install the disk.

To be fair, there was a marking on the clutch disc. "T/S" was marked on the transmission side (protruding center side), so it was my bad for not knowing what TS meant and blindly following the book instructions. I will now always remember flat side toward the flywheel. Pain is the best teacher.