Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hello fellow roadster-ites!

It's been some time since I posted up and I thought I'd like to share a project with the group.

This will be the third 2 liter I work on. The first one is 'done' but not really; are they ever really done? I did a restomod on my 69 with a swap. I purchased a second same year and model as a parts car but didn't really need much off of it so I ended up with two. Huh.

I figured I'd restore the second one, got it up and running and now its off to paint. During this resto, I happened to meet another local enthusiast. He's asked me to help get his ride back up and running. I'm happy to help.

Last week he managed to bring his 69 2000 over to my little shop. Before I dug into it, he did say he was driving it around but never really did much to it when he bought it about 9 years ago. He stopped driving it because the car was getting hot. It's been sitting in his driveway for about 8 years and now it's in my hands. Wish me luck!
Time to dig in...
Compression showed 160 average across all 4 cylinders... However I did notice plugs on the intake so this might have had the smog pump removed. Upon checking the distributor, stamps show 17.5 advance. Maybe this was causing the hot condition?

Work continues next on valve adjustments set cold .006”/.010” intake/exhaust right? Noticed a rocker slightly higher than the rest even after the adjustment.

Is this “normal” on our cars?
A “mousetrap” retaining spring was replaced in previous work with some other type. These are super hard to source not sure if I’ll be able to replace it and I’ll be stuck using the old one that’s out of spec

Removing the thermostat, stamp shows 192 degree type, I’ll swap it with the 180

There was a bunch of coolant deposits in the water jacket, this engine definitely needs a flush

After rebuilding 2 of them I'm sure it's in good hands! A little TLC and 180 Thermostat might go a long way to keeping it cooling properly

If the car was de-smogged the 7.5 cam plate would be correct for the distributor ... might want to check the timing and verify that its correct as well as making sure the mechanical and vacuum systems are advancing properly.
How deep are you going to get into this? Are you also doing other tune up items like fluids, new plugs (are current plugs even correct?) and new cap and plug wires? Looks like a few "mods" were also done to the fuel system ... assume you're likely to run into a few more!

This guy should be pretty happy.

No that is NOT correct, a 7.5 cam is a non-smog cam. The springs will need to be changed as well. I have new non-smog cams and springs available if need a set. So the reason it gets hot when you use the smog cam is it has too much advance built into the distributor. If you advance it enough to stop the overheating at low rpm it’s way too advanced at high rpm and can detonate the engine. As to the one rocker that sits higher than the rest, it’s probably a newer two piece rocker that sit slightly higher than the original one piece. I have lots of spring left over from heads that were too far gone to use again so that is available if you need it.
Dave

Stick wrote: Wed Sep 18, 2024 5:18 am After rebuilding 2 of them I'm sure it's in good hands! A little TLC and 180 Thermostat might go a long way to keeping it cooling properly

If the car was de-smogged the 17.5 cam plate would be correct for the distributor ... might want to check the timing and verify that its correct as well as making sure the mechanical and vacuum systems are advancing properly.
How deep are you going to get into this? Are you also doing other tune up items like fluids, new plugs (are current plugs even correct?) and new cap and plug wires? Looks like a few "mods" were also done to the fuel system ... assume you're likely to run into a few more!

This guy should be pretty happy.

Thank you Stick

Hey Dave thanks for the feedback,

I was under the impression that if you have a smogged U20, its enough to recurve the distributor. Is it imperative to swap the cam as well? I'm not too familiar with these cars yet but they sure are lots of fun to play with. I appreciate your wisdom thank you.
I found a "Yoshi parts" online vendor that may be able to source the mousetrap for me but I've yet to get shipping status or the order in hand; I may have to take you up on your offer for that spring.

I did just order the new distributor from East coast roadsters, thank you Tom. I've got that end covered...

Moving forward, I've re-torqued the head bolts and only one seemed "loose-ish," so far I'm re-assured the block is in decent enough shape to not need a rebuild. FIngers crossed!

Here's the obligatory "Evil L" shot. This is about the worst one I've seen and just by looking at it, it seems safe enough? I'll definitely fight for shimming the tensioner at a minimum

Sorry Dave is CORRECT - I got them mixed up ... good catch!
Original post corrected

Briefly, if the rocker arms are not different as Dave suggested then the head, specifically the seats, may be worn a bit. As time goes by the seats can become more recessed into the head, leaving less and less adjustment threads on the adjuster side as you compensate for the valve stem coming up higher... at least this is what I was told many years ago. It will get to where there are no threads left to adjust.

The chain guide is missing the 10mm headed bolt. The L is probably OK, but absolutely shim. Reuse, replace or remake the tensioner gasket, no sealer, copy the oil feed hole of you make a gasket. Chain is probably stretched some too. Don't mix up your rocker arms, number them as they must go back on the same lobe or risk rapid wear due to mismatched wear patterns. The "cam" Dave is referencing is not the engine Camshaft but a part inside the distributor... no need to do anything with THE cam.

Lots of identified causes for overheating found, well done.

Thank you Gregg,
I didn’t know that tidbit about the seats, the valve still has adjustment but it seems that’s a probable cause for the height difference between rockers. Dave mentioned the two piece rocker but after looking closer, the arms all look the same, I’m not certain
On other tasks, the previous owners put an e pump on to feed fuel.
I removed it and started a stock pump rebuild
Looks like the last guy put the check valve gasket in the wrong spot , I’m sure this is why the manual pump didn’t work and the electric one was installed
Rebuilt pump, hoses, filter, next?

Decided to drop the fuel tank after the drain plug said it wouldn't. Poured out the 'contents' and wasn't really surprised by the brown funky gas. However tipping the tank over the black ooze from Hades made itself known

Probably shouldn't be sticking my fingers in it...
Had to fabricate a new supply hard line as the old one was beyond clogged, I did try to clean it out. Pulled the carburetors apart, cleaned them out to make sure they weren't 'done' and they cleaned up pretty well.
Made some gaskets for the isolators for fun
Fresh carburetors are very satisfying

As are new plugs..

It's looking good and you're getting all the spots... well done! Doing this kind of work can be very satisfying.
Regarding the rocker arms, the two piece refer to the pad the cam lobe rubs against. Some arms were all one piece, many others had a harder pad fitted into the rocker. Yours look like one piece arms.

Thank you Gregg. I don’t know if anyone jumping into owning or working on these cars would be successful fixing them up without the help of the 311 community that I’m very grateful to be a small part of. It’s nice to have people who have lived and breathed these cars for so long weigh in to check work it’s much appreciated.

New, much needed electronic distributor kit arrived this weekend. Thank you so much Tom Lorick at East Coast Roadster! Pleasure doing business.
Installation starts at TDC Checking proper oil pump drive orientation some wiring..
I'm feeling confident the car with fire up soon!

I'm having to re-work some wiring under the dash to restore missing wires to the coil/distributor. Well, the previous owner had a radio hacked in and the wiring looked like a mess under there. The ignition switch no longer worked so an after market one was heaped on to the steering column. The turn signal was also no longer working and so another one was also stacked on top of the old one. With each successive install the harness was chopped up. I'll be spending some time fixing the wiring for sure.

Halloween is over , but it’s alive!! I’m happy to announce srl311-09184 is making healthy laps around the block.

It’s still got a few quirks but you know these cars are always needing constant attention

Thank you Dean, Lorick, and Premo for your help!

Woo hoo, congratulations! Very nice documentary on your efforts and an excellent result!