No power to gauges and lights after dash installation

[Nded]

I just put my restored flat dash with Frampton serviced gauges back into my 1966 SPL311-00054. The Amp Meter works, all the other small gauges seem dead (Temp, Oil, Clock, and Gas), along with no turn signals, brake lights, headlights, wiper movement, or fog lights). I do recall a heavy short happened when I pulled the heater/radio console.

What sort of troubleshooting should I be trying?

[Stick]

I'd start with checking any fuses, source power for voltage and any grounds. Should help you narrow things down to the issue(s). I'm sure it must be frustrating after reworking the entire dash, but start small and maybe start with the area where you originally had your short and verify that is fixed.

Also many want to check your voltage regulator.

I hate electrical problems - hope you solve that quickly and get to enjoying your work!

[Nded]

The engine starts, so I know there is power going into the system.

All 4 glass fuses are good.

I have a 1 wire alternator setup. In that case, does the Voltage Regualtor still matter?

Where else should I be looking?

[Nded]

Ok, the wiper motor is working for on off with the dash switch. The radio power is confirmed to be hot.

[Nded]

CL and Washer Fluid Motor have no power. Washer Fluid Motor works with Radio power tail.

[Stick]

If I'm reading the schematic correctly, it Looks like the CL & clock share power with the Foglight and map light switches. The CL has it's own separate ground as does the map light.

The radio looks like its tied into the 30A fuse block and ammeter wire.

The washer fluid motor should share power with your wiper motor.

[Nded]

I've printed out the schematics in the Wiki here to study. I've also reached out to the famous @Curtis for some harness information.

[ppeters914]

The engine starts, so I know there is power going into the system.

All 4 glass fuses are good.

I have a 1 wire alternator setup. In that case, does the Voltage Regualtor still matter?

Where else should I be looking?

The fuses may be good, but how well do they fit into the fuse box? Another person discovered one fuse wasn't making good contact. He had to clean and bend the brackets a little to hold the fuse tighter.

If you have a 1-wire alternator setup, then you have an internally regulated (IR) alternator and shouldn't have the stock external voltage regulator anymore. Or maybe the external voltage regulator is still installed, but it shouldn't be hooked up into the wiring. Yes? No? Maybe?

CL and Washer Fluid Motor have no power. Washer Fluid Motor works with Radio power tail.

You have a washer fluid motor? Interesting. Both my '66 or '67 have the manual version. I thought the washer fluid motor was introduced on the '68 year model.

The engine starts, but no water temp, no oil pressure, no fuel and no clock? I thought you said in your other thread that the fuel and water temp gauges were working after you cleaned the connections, especially the connections on the fuel tank sender. Is that not true now?

[Nded]

The engine starts, but no water temp, no oil pressure, no fuel and no clock? I thought you said in your other thread that the fuel and water temp gauges were working after you cleaned the connections, especially the connections on the fuel tank sender. Is that not true now?

You are confusing me with someone else. I have never posted about those gauges working.

[Nded]

If you have a 1-wire alternator setup, then you have an internally regulated (IR) alternator and shouldn't have the stock external voltage regulator anymore. Or maybe the external voltage regulator is still installed, but it shouldn't be hooked up into the wiring. Yes? No? Maybe?

It is physically there, but not plugged in.

[ppeters914]

Sorry, you are correct. I did confuse you with someone else who recently had similar issues.

So, the engine starts and runs, but oil pressure gauge shows no oil pressure, fuel gauge sits below Empty and the water temp gauge doesn't rise. Is that correct?

Also, if we're talking about the gauge voltage regulator (little rectangular box mounted underneath steering column), that's only for the fuel and water temp gauges.

CL and Washer Fluid Motor have no power. Washer Fluid Motor works with Radio power tail.

Sorry, but what's a Radio power tail or is that a typo?

[Nded]

Correct, none of those gauges are responding.

That "tail", or perhaps pigtail, is the 12V power lead for the radio.

[redroadster]

FWI "power " is the neg and pos side of the wiring , DC current flows neg to pos . Positive pulls current to it . ground is a AC current term ..really. So best to always start checking the negative side connections 1st
Best to check with a ohm meter for low readings . lite draw ( low amp )
Components are always close to loosing good enough connections

[SOUPY]

Kinda sounds like a ground problem. To the best of my recollection, Don't all the guages ground to the dash by the hold down brackets? If you just painted the backside of dash, is everything grounding to good bare metal? And the dash gets it ground by bolting to body?

[ppeters914]

I just put my restored flat dash with Frampton serviced gauges back into my 1966 SPL311-00054. The Amp Meter works, all the other small gauges seem dead (Temp, Oil, Clock, and Gas), along with no turn signals, brake lights, headlights, wiper movement, or fog lights).

In Post #4, you say the wipers are working, correct?

What about the horn and heater?

I do recall a heavy short happened when I pulled the heater/radio console.

Can you elaborate on this? Does this mean you still had the battery connected when you were removing the dash to get the gauges out to send to Frampton?

Did you have the gauges modified for LED lighting?