Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

First I looked through 5-6 pages and don’t see a discussion on this topic, hard to believe I am first, engine just off to shop so I am early. I picked up some information some somewhere and don’t recall specifically.

Background- I did not disassemble engine, nor pull from car. Most components I believe are in front seat. I hope to still find box of brackets, hoses, cables, fittings etc to put back together.

The question is: how much to reassemble while block is out of car. Best practice to put back in. Have read how certain things need to be done in order starter, headers, intake (I don’t believe I listed in any correct order for removing or installing)

But definitely have picked up real estate is limited and things generally need to be done in order. If there is something out there just tell me to keep looking.

Newbie to wrenches on cars. I quit changing oil when drained transmission oil from wifes car not engine oil.

When I installed my 1600 engine I put everything together out of the car, trans, clutch, starter, exhaust manifold/header, intake manifold & carbs, air filter, alternator, oil filter, water pump, fan, fan belt, distributor, engine mounts, oil & oil filter. Primed the oil system, set rough timing & valves. If you have a 5-speed trans you can also put the trans fluid & front driveshaft piece in. (Mark the orientation of the 2 driveshaft parts to make it easier to align them later).

Hood, battery, radiator & at least the top radiator bar need to be off.

I left the rear trans crossmember & mount out until the drivetrain was in place & the front mounts loosely bolted in place.

Just take your time & don’t hang it up going in. Be careful not to hit the trans against the windshield. The drivetrain needs to tip quite a bit to get it in.

This is from memory, so I may have missed something.

Peace, Pat

Yup 5 speed transmission. It currently is in car so will pull it when wngine comes back.

Thanks

MIUPRodster wrote: Thu May 23, 2024 4:26 pm Yup 5 speed transmission. It currently is in car so will pull it when wngine comes back.

Thanks

It is paramount that the engine and trans be removed and installed as a unit in these cars. In addition to the excellent info Pat provided, please watch this video on removal that Will Campbell (VERY long-time member) made:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmaYlvkvEQM

Please note the angle that facilitates removal and installation and that the job is made easier by an engine leveler. Do not expect to do the job in the short amount of time that Will accomplishes it: he has done it many times.

Please put a heavy sheet of plywood to cover the windshield since this will be your first time. I have bought at least three roadsters with busted windshields caused by a careless swing of the engine/trans during removal/installation.

Jon

Thanks

Thanks

Will's video is great. You will need the correct clutch alignment tool for centering the clutch disc (others chime in on size please!). I think I have removed the upper rad cross bar (bolts in). Stock oil pan, not the 7quart aluminum pan, right? That will make it easier. Helps to have a helper to reach in through the shifter mount to grap the end of the trans and guide it past the frame but not required. Examine the drive shaft for the balancing marks and be sure to align the Ujoints properly (search this site for discussion on both). Be patient and take your time.

The end of the transmission case can be sometimes be damaged during engine removal/install if not guided or end dropped dropped.
I try to protect the case end by putting a tin can over or insert an old front drive shaft yoke.
Cheers
Ray B.

itsa68 wrote: Sat May 25, 2024 8:40 am The end of the transmission case can be sometimes be damaged during engine removal/install if not guided or end dropped dropped.
I try to protect the case end by putting a tin can over or insert an old front drive shaft yoke.

driveshaft yoke.JPG

Cheers
Ray B.

Not a bad idea, but he's actually working with a U20/5 speed... the end is sealed and the yoke with the Ujoint just accepts the splined end of the drive shaft. Makes it a bit easier and there's no pouring trans oil all over the place!

Gregs672000 wrote: Thu May 23, 2024 9:50 pm Will's video is great. You will need the correct clutch alignment tool for centering the clutch disc (others chime in on size please!). I think I have removed the upper rad cross bar (bolts in). Stock oil pan, not the 7quart aluminum pan, right? That will make it easier. Helps to have a helper to reach in through the shifter mount to grap the end of the trans and guide it past the frame but not required. Examine the drive shaft for the balancing marks and be sure to align the Ujoints properly (search this site for discussion on both). Be patient and take your time.

This is the correct alignment tool - 24 spline. Comes with most kits if a entire new clutch is needed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C ... UTF8&psc=1

DAC21 wrote: Sat May 25, 2024 4:32 pm

Gregs672000 wrote: Thu May 23, 2024 9:50 pm Will's video is great. You will need the correct clutch alignment tool for centering the clutch disc (others chime in on size please!). I think I have removed the upper rad cross bar (bolts in). Stock oil pan, not the 7quart aluminum pan, right? That will make it easier. Helps to have a helper to reach in through the shifter mount to grap the end of the trans and guide it past the frame but not required. Examine the drive shaft for the balancing marks and be sure to align the Ujoints properly (search this site for discussion on both). Be patient and take your time.

This is the correct alignment tool - 24 spline. Comes with most kits if a entire new clutch is needed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C ... UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! I was not able to find one at my local store, very good to know!

I recommend cutting a 1/4" plywood in shape of the windshield then use squirt can foam on both side to protect accidentally hitting it

Second recommendation for protecting the windshield but man, what are you guys trying to do, THROW it in? Using a cheery picker raise the engine/trans at a slight angle (front up higher, 100 degree angle?) just high enough to get the end of the trans past the rad mount (you can get close and then hand lift it over), then push back a bit at a time while you progressively lower it in... back a little, drop a little, back a little, drop a little. In my experience the hardest thing is getting the upright shifter mount past the throttle mechanism and the lip of the firewall, and that's with the comp oil pan on it. IMHO, if you're getting anywhere close to the windshield and it's swinging that much you're WAY too aggressive!

The car itself should be raised in the front (at least) on jackstands so the arms of the cherry picker will go under the car.

Ditto...

Gregs672000 wrote: Sun May 26, 2024 1:19 pm Second recommendation for protecting the windshield but man, what are you guys trying to do, THROW it in?

Never happened to me personally, Greg, partly b/c my first 2000 had its windshield busted that way when I bought it in '72. When I rebuilt it in '74, I was already acutely aware that it could happen and proceeded carefully. As mentioned, I have purchased at least three that way, so it is an all too common slip up that anyone doing it for the first time should be aware of.

Will's video shows the numerous adjustments necessary along the way to do the job right.

Jon