Driveshaft removal tools tip?

[mschel]

Hi, I feel dumb posting this since have removed tons of driveshafts from other cars.. But all were slip yokes on the transmission end so once the diff end was off it just dropped.

The yoke to diff I was eventually able to get off with an open end wrench but it was a bit sketchy with slight rounding of the nuts.

The transmission end the only way I can see getting to it is either a socket which none of mine have thin enough walls or from the top with the shifter rubber boot removed. But from the top there is so little room its not coming off because the open end wrench is slipping.

From the bottom the x member is in the way of everything.

I never use the open end normally because of this. Is there a type of wrench or socket that anyone has found to make this easier?

I tried seeing if the diff end would drop at least and maybe give me some room on other end or maybe the driveshaft would come apart into two pieces but its solidly wedged in there. I didnt want to dent it by tapping lightly with a hammer.

thanks.

[Habitat.pat]

I generally use a crow foot wrench on the driveshaft nuts.

Peace, Pat

[mschel]

Cool, that's probably about the only hand tool I don't have here! Honestly never needed them. Guess I will stop by the store and grab a set.

[Habitat.pat]

I’ve only needed a 1/2” crow foot so instead of picking up a cheap set for $10 or so, I’d just get a high quality 1/2” for $10-15. Cheap wrenches have more of a tendency to spread & round the nuts.

Peace, Pat

[mschel]

Thanks. I ordered a flare and a regular crow foot just in case! Hopefully that makes it easier to get off

[Gregs672000]

I thought the 4 speeds just slipped off the end of the trans (allowing oil to leak out of course), and the 5 speeds have a separate yolk that does not require removing any bolts/nuts. People usually tie a plastic bag to the end of the 4 speeds when installing I think. The diff nuts should not have been a huge issue and as I recall I could use the box end of the wrench (two wrenches sometimes needed, especially to tighten). FWIW!

[Habitat.pat]

Greg, correct. Since he didn’t say 1.6 or 2L, I assumed it was a 2L since he was talking about a flange on the trans.

Peace, Pat

[redroadster]

Also a HF wrench ground down / torched heated and bent can work

[mschel]

Thanks. I had started to grind down an old 1/2 box end to make narrower and then the box end hit still on something.

I see you have dealer tech in your tagline, is that what datsun dealers used (not HF at time of course) or was there a specialty tool? Motor mounts are being a pain too but eventually got those with some ujoints.

I think I jinxed myself thinking oh this tiny engine will only take an hour to pull

[mschel]

That's what I was thinking originally too. Used old usa craftsman and also tried a gear wrench, both hit for some reason. Perhaps someone assembled backwards? Should the nut be on the front or the back?

I thought the 4 speeds just slipped off the end of the trans (allowing oil to leak out of course), and the 5 speeds have a separate yolk that does not require removing any bolts/nuts. People usually tie a plastic bag to the end of the 4 speeds when installing I think. The diff nuts should not have been a huge issue and as I recall I could use the box end of the wrench (two wrenches sometimes needed, especially to tighten). FWIW!

[Habitat.pat]

I don’t see those bolts or trans flange in the parts manual & I don’t remember which way I put the bolts in but I will be under the car tomorrow & I’ll try to remember to see which way I installed them.

[Gregs672000]

Greg, correct. Since he didn’t say 1.6 or 2L, I assumed it was a 2L since he was talking about a flange on the trans.

Peace, Pat

Ya, no need to take that off! We're pulling a U20 RIGHT? Should be able to use box end of a thinner 12mm for the diff to drive shaft nuts and bolts, 6 trans mount to frame bolts to remove (12 or 13mm), speedo cable removed, 2 trans mount to transmission nuts/bolts to remove the mount from the transmission (14 or 17mm), remove the shifter nut (13 or 14mm) and pull the shift stick, 4 motor mount to frame bolts to remove (12 or 13mm), ground straps removed (likely near the starter and the alternator, and potentially on both sides of the car) then you should be good to go...
I just saw your question... without going under the car right now and looking, as I recall the bolts go through the drive shaft yolk to the differential and the nuts go on the other (rear) side. 12mm I believe, 13mm max. The front end of the drive shaft should just slide out, the end is splined. When reassembled it has to go back to factory balance marks, easy to do with the splined end when you have located the marks.

[redroadster]

Thanks. I had started to grind down an old 1/2 box end to make narrower and then the box end hit still on something.

I see you have dealer tech in your tagline, is that what datsun dealers used (not HF at time of course) or was there a specialty tool? Motor mounts are being a pain too but eventually got those with some ujoints.

I think I jinxed myself thinking oh this tiny engine will only take an hour to pull

Yes that was a quick solve mant times , but not sure on srl s, I didn't get too many... most of us hid when one came in ... as most were a basket case .
bending a boxed end straight then 75 degrees to the side works many times my 83 Audi 5000 TD Should havecame with a set of those wrenches the crowsfoot line wrench is best on tough nuts

[mschel]

I think that might be the problem then. The rear flange is solidly stuck to the diff flange after 4 bolts were removed. I saw the center part mentioned for the front half of driveshaft but its all locked in place. I didnt want to pry or hammer risking damage to driveshaft. I tried a light pry bar on the end of the coupler but no go.

Greg, correct. Since he didn’t say 1.6 or 2L, I assumed it was a 2L since he was talking about a flange on the trans.

Peace, Pat

Ya, no need to take that off! We're pulling a U20 RIGHT? Should be able to use box end of a thinner 12mm for the diff to drive shaft nuts and bolts, 6 trans mount to frame bolts, 2 trans mount to transmission nuts/bolts to remove the mount from the transmission, remove the shifter nuts and pull the shift stick, 4 motor mount to frame bolts, ground straps removed (likely near the starter and the alternator, potentially on both sides of the car) then you should be good to go... just saw your question... without going under the car right now and looking, as I recall the bolts go through the drive shaft yolk to to differential and the nuts go on the other (rear) side. 12mm I believe, 13mm max. The drive shaft should just slide out, the end is splined.

[mschel]

Trying to visualize that mod. I think I am too much of a visual thinker

Thanks. I had started to grind down an old 1/2 box end to make narrower and then the box end hit still on something.

I see you have dealer tech in your tagline, is that what datsun dealers used (not HF at time of course) or was there a specialty tool? Motor mounts are being a pain too but eventually got those with some ujoints.

I think I jinxed myself thinking oh this tiny engine will only take an hour to pull

Yes that was a quick solve mant times , but not sure on srl s, I didn't get too many... most of us hid when one came in ... as most were a basket case .
bending a boxed end straight then 75 degrees to the side works many times my 83 Audi 5000 TD Should havecame with a set of those wrenches