New seats for the 67

[justin-311]

I’ve got some random high back cloth seats on unknown rails that seem to be frozen in place in my 67. They only have a connection at the front of the seat with a bolt on each side. My drivers seat has busted on the outboard side and likely can’t be repaired for the current seat since the metal is so thin (and the fact I don’t like the seats), so the seat moves and needs to be replaced for safety reasons. I’ve tried the search here on seats and have seen a few posts on original seat repair and others with recommendations for new seats. Haven’t found anything on a start to finish process for something new.

I’m trying to decide if I should reuse the existing rails, provided I can free them up, or just get a whole new setup. I don’t like the fact that it’s just two bolts holding each seat in. I really want low backs and like the look of the Empi low back bucket with grommets but the reviews are bad. I think the Cobra RS came up in a post I found but I’d want it without the headrest holes. Are there other seats anyone would recommend I look at? Would like to be around $500 or so a seat.

Also, is there a rail system that is commonly used for the roadsters when you buy a universal seat, or is it something that has to be done custom? If custom, what’s the best rail system to start with that requires the least modification?

Thanks in advance!

[dynaguy]

1st generation Miata seats work well in the Roadster. Look in Techwiki for write-up. Pat

[justin-311]

Thanks dynaguy. I’m really looking for low backs but the Miata might be an option if I can’t find anything.

[justin-311]

Anyone in the Seattle area know of a shop that would make mounts/brackets for whatever seats I end up with?

[theunz]

If you are just needing non adjustable mounts or mounts that attach to your existing sliders then a welding shop may be a good bet. I would guess that their hourly rate is less than an auto repair or fab shop and they usually have a wide selection of metal on hand.

[Gregs672000]

You mentioned there were only 2 bolts holding the seats in... obviously there's an issue there as there should be 2 per rail. I seem to recall having to add a bolt or two in the past to a rail. It's also recommend that you add well fitting, wide washers to help spread the load on the floor sheet metal should an impact occur so they can't pull through per the Rallye Roadster catalog. Try soaking your old rails in that stuff that eats rust (can't for the life of me think of the name but it's common... somebody help me out here!) and maybe a solvent to clean them up. Folks here have been successful in restoring theirs.

[justin-311]

Thanks, . Good suggestion.

Yeah, the current rails are weird. I had another post trying to identify them and they are definitely not Datsun. In the image, the red circles are the bolt mounts and you can see there are no others. The only thing that looks like a possible hold point is the tab in the blue square. However, that just moves around and I’m not sure it ever did anything useful.

I’ll see if I can have some tabs welded to these rails in the back to allow for better mounting. I’ll try soaking/cleaning them to see if I can get them unfrozen too.

[Gregs672000]

Agreed, not Roadster!

[davdav2000]

Justin - I am in Seattle and may have a set of roadster rails for roadster seats. I think they are for later cars so don't know if they would work for you.
I can post some pics here for hopefully some expert review and confirmation they are roadster.

[justin-311]

Thanks David. If I can get some low back seats for them, I’d definitely be interested. I’m still figuring out what fits what though.

[Dreymar]

1st generation Miata seats work well in the Roadster. Look in Techwiki for write-up. Pat

Alright, we will for Miata seats when we take in the Roadster project. Got to finish installing the steelies and mud tires on the Wrangler TJ before we can clear a space in the garage and take her in.

[justin-311]

Still on my quest for seats. I was looking at some Cobra Classics or RS. They have a super long wait period right now but have that cool racing look.

In the meantime I borrowed a Procar 90 from a local shop to test fit and it’s a bit tall in the seat bottom (I’d get without the headrest). Getting into the drivers seat closer forward with a standard wheel was a bit difficult.

[funkaholik]

Those are cool (without the headrests) and have a '60s-'70s vibe, but I assume with more adjustability than stock. Is the height from the actual seat bottom or do the rails sit up really high? I used some seats in my Mustang that I really liked, but the rail assembly was ridiculously tall. I was able to remove the bottom part of the assembly and built my own out of 1/4 inch plate. This lowered the seats considerably but retained the sliders.

[ADR]

Mine are currently bolted directly to the floor in a fixed position all the way back, with no sliders at all. I have not pulled the seats or tried to sort it out yet, but I do have these in my "to look at" list. There is likely good and bad quality out there... Not a recommendation, just a path to explore...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BKSJXB ... 72CR&psc=1

[justin-311]

Those are cool (without the headrests) and have a '60s-'70s vibe, but I assume with more adjustability than stock. Is the height from the actual seat bottom or do the rails sit up really high? I used some seats in my Mustang that I really liked, but the rail assembly was ridiculously tall. I was able to remove the bottom part of the assembly and built my own out of 1/4 inch plate. This lowered the seats considerably but retained the sliders.

They pretty much just have recline afaik. The seat comes with 3 mount holes that can be cut down for the bracket. I could shave 1.5” that way. Then I’d need a universal rail and more holes in the floor unless I add more height with some stock plate to align with the factory holes.