Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

At auto parts store this morning and bought a can of paint stripper for near future use and then found some old paint Stripper sitting around so I thought I'd do a quick test on trunk lid. Side by side comparisons with only a 15 minuet soak, no sanding. Jasco seemed to work a little better. Used a plastic scrapper to clean up....not bad....quick, but left the primer so me's thinkin I'll do a longer soak when I decide to do this in the near future. But it got me wondering, how soft is the rest of paint around my test? So I get out the trusty razor blade scrapper and lo and behold all the paint starts scrapping (rolling) off! No stripper. So I keep going and an hour later 3 hours later, whole car done except rear panel where license plate and tail lights are. And the hood Whereas most everything scrapped off easily the hood fought me. It is only coming off in little pieces. Maybe because of heat? The rear panel seems to be thicker paint and have a couple different colors to it. I will fight with those 2 items tomorrow! The primer looks in great shape. Should I leave it? What caused the paint to come off so easily? Any suggestions would help before I attempt to spray it in the future!

I ask Bondo Billy, on YT ,really like his content
He's replied to my ? But there's different paints more hardener in some he usually just DA it off

The old Jasco will kill you. Good ventilation required. They have since changed the formula after deaths.

I need to ask the body shop where my car is what they use. He said they put it on and cover it with plastic food type wrap. Comes right off.

To chime in: both of those products appear to be the versions that include methylene chloride. A handful of States have outlawed methylene chloride in paint strippers. While I'm sure they're much better for the environment and your lungs, etc, the non-methylene chloride strippers will barely remove b-flat enamel, let alone 2K paint, based on my experience. Kleenstrip actually still sells both versions, depending on where you live, but as Curtis mentioned, be very careful using them.

But this explains your good results. They do work and they work well. Just be careful.

Remarkable (that it didn't peal-in-the-wind ) and a true score. I read this as you didn't even have to use the m. chloride for 99% of the car--- fantastic. I'm not a body/paint guy by anyone's imagination but it would appear the last painter laid down a primer (which looks to be well done) and the color-paint was incompatible. My experience (again, limited) would be to find a shop with an expert, especially as it looks drivable. I have done a drive-up assessment where they ID'd my existing paint & primer then immediately knew what process was required. So many variables: they had options like: a specific light re-prime over existing (using a bonding chemistry), chemical etch, then on to single stage, or 2-stage, color etc, etc. Doesn't appear you have any big surprises peaking through the primer, so you have already saved (your health), either/both chemical stripping or a week with a DA.

1977-ish, I had MAACO shoot their platinum urethane paint over the OEM 666 paint and some rear quarter primer, on an earlier car. Great color, but by 1980, in the Texas sun, it had started to peel off in large sheets.

One of the guys here did the prep on his car and had Maaco paint it 10 or more years ago. Still looks great but is garaged.

The shop painting my car said the new paints which are water based are peeling off the cars. Government big on getting rid of VOCs. Asked about getting my peeling blue paint courtesy of Honda long out of warranty painted and he told me the Maaco job would last about 4 to 5 years.

I used the Jasco on my car and I didn't know how toxic it was. Lucky I didn't poison myself. But it did get the paint off.