Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hi guys,

I really hope this isn't going to be a problem in the future. It looks bad but I didn't see any leaks. Thoughts?

-Landon

Ya, that’s going to become a problem. Likely a bandaid solution on some serious rust damage. There is no reason to believe the rest of the head won’t be just as bad. I would pull it to confirm.

If it's running and driving, rock on with your bad self. Start shopping for a replacement head just in case and get it rebuilt. Then on the weekend you can swap the heads. Minimize is downtime then at that point you can grind off the JB weld and find out what evils the PO is hiding.

. If it's not, probably a good idea to yank the head.

As long as you’re out shopping, might want to add a new water pump to the list as well.

Bwk2000 wrote: Tue Feb 21, 2023 3:19 pm As long as you’re out shopping, might want to add a new water pump to the list as well.

ohoh get the tecomotive waterpump setup if you are shopping. JK not unless you want to try something different

https://tecomotive.com/store/en/tinycwa ... ve-tinycwa

Kinda cool to see that 50 + year old heater hose clamp still going

Thanks for the advice guys. Looks like I'm in the need for a new head. Anyone know where to get a good one?
I've added a water pump to the list of needs. Is there a block off plate for when you don't need that mechanical water pump, like if I put an electric pump in?

SPL311-25411 wrote: Tue Feb 21, 2023 11:56 pm Thanks for the advice guys. Looks like I'm in the need for a new head. Anyone know where to get a good one?
I've added a water pump to the list of needs. Is there a block off plate for when you don't need that mechanical water pump, like if I put an electric pump in?

Replacing the head is the right answer. The JB weld repair is certainly a band-aid and likely to fail at the most inconvenient time (Like a long trip where the engine gets nice and hot). With all due respect to the PO-that was "not a bright" repair.

We have the WP, Fuel pump Plate and possibly the head:

https://www.datsunrestorationproducts.com/

just call or email about the head or pm. jt

My $0.02 … If you’re thinking you might want to replace that head (I would), and find one in good condition that hasn’t been shaved one too many times (or has ‘Other’ issues), jump on it. Finding one in decent condition is only getting harder.

P.S. Any idea how long has it been since this engine was last running?

redroadster wrote: Tue Feb 21, 2023 9:09 pm Kinda cool to see that 50 + year old heater hose clamp still going

Lol … I was thinking the same. I wonder when that was last off?

Thanks for the advice guys. The last time this car drove was onto the trailer and then off and into the garage. The PO told me he took it down the street a couple times but not long enough to heat up the engine. Last time it ran on only 2 cylinders but that is likely due to one of the carbs getting clogged since there was no fuel filter and a suspect tank. There was only water in the radiator, very rusty.

JT68 - Sending a PM about that head.

Maybe this is a stupid question. Does the U20 head bolt to the R16? Is there any advantage to using it? I may do a stroker setup on this in the future.

SPL311-25411 wrote: Wed Feb 22, 2023 3:22 pm Maybe this is a stupid question. Does the U20 head bolt to the R16? Is there any advantage to using it? I may do a stroker setup on this in the future.

There are no stupid questions here (although I may have come close a couple of times).

Don’t think anyone has gone that route yet . Fitting an overhead cam head on a pushrod block would be, well … expensive. I guess that would make it a U16?? … lol. If you go that route, I’m definitely going to be following the build!

Probably best just to go the traditional stroker route with a H20 crank, pistons, rings etc, etc and keep the (new) R16 head matched to the R16 block (I’m assuming you have the 5-main).

The short answer about the u20 head is no. If you want to u20 get a u20.

The block for the R16 is similar to the u20, but there are enough differences that trying to make the u20 head work on the 1600 block would cost astronomical money

Thanks guys, that clears things up for me. I will not try to reinvent the "engine" on this one.
I'm going to go with the R16 head and stroke it at a later date. Gotta get this back on the road first.