Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I'm finally ready to start up my new stroker engine after a complete rebuild, new rings, cam, lifters, bearings, distributor & carbs. I find information on how to break in a cam & rings but how do the new carbs & timing figure in?

I'm guessing that if the engine at least runs on all cylinders that the carbs are close enough & should be left for last.

Should I just do a static timing (electronic distributor), then come back later to set it while running?

I look forward to the input from list members.

Peace,
Pat

Hi Pat, timing is stock, max advance (about 3k RPMS) around 34 degrees BTDC. Carbs also normal, just avoid a lean condition. Slightly rich is fine.

Put a little oil and gas mix directly in the cylinders (small squirt of each in the spark plug holes). I use a medium sized syringe.

To get the cam broken in, stay over 2k for over 15 minutes. (doesn't have to be continuous, you can stop it if there are problems, just avoid idle).

Above all avoid overheating. Shut it down if it gets too hot and find out why. j

What JT said. Additional thoughts... have a fire extinguisher at hand just in case; yes, do your best to static time it, then adjust it later with a timing light; do your best to visually inspect the linkage and have the throttle plates opening and shutting equally so you're as close to balanced upon first start, then have a flow meter/unisyn at hand for tweaking as needed; consider having a second set of plugs available in case they foul or if you need to read/swap out plugs for any reason. As soon as she's running decent (carbs not horribly out of balance or popping from being lean, timing reasonable) break in the cam as JT indicated above... it kinda freaks you out a bit immediately running a brand new motor at anything above idle, checking for leaks and timing and temps and pressure and and and(!)... but that's how it works and the cam needs to be broken in correctly. Finally, create enough room around the car to do your victory dance, and warn your family, friends and neighbors that the giddy laughter and jumping behavior is not an indication of mental issues and will NOT require an "intervention."
Woo Hoo!

Would also recommend you only use Dino oil for the first few thousand miles.

Greg’s assessment of proactive steps to avoid a mistaken intervention is also spot on.

I would crank it until you see it oiling up top before trying to start . Best to have it only firing on 1 cyl first minutes then add another plug wire .then the rest
Should have non detergent oil as break in
( any metal fragments/ grit drop to the bottom of pan not suspended in the oil flow )
It's recommended to take a first pump compression test cold . It's not out of the norm for a bearing journal to get little to no oil from an air pocket in the line ,gears , debrie in the passage
@60 rpm or 1 rev a second dry s no problem. @ 60 rev per sec. dry it seizes or it was not assembled correctly ....ya done guess how I know this ( there used to be and likely still are salvage yards that will ship you a known defective engine as good that kinda blows up ,saying you did it )

Thanks to all who replied, it’s been about 25 years since I went through this.
Never heard of starting with 1 plug, then adding more. I’ll have to give that a try.

I’m using break in oil, primed the engine driving the oil pump with a reverse drill about 10 days ago, have 3 extinguishers ready, will put oil & fuel into the cylinders.

ZTherapy did the carbs & they seem to be close.

I still need to connect up the exhaust & add fuel so I hope to try to crank it up this week.

Peace,
Pat

Good luck Pat!

"Never heard of starting with 1 plug, then adding more. I’ll have to give that a try."

Don't bother with that. No sense in have it thrash around at 100rpm on one or two cylinders.

First add a little oil to each cylinder (tablespoon) and spin the engine over with the starter (no plugs) to get oil pressure, then put

a little gas in each cylinder, plugs, choke it, and fire it off. If you assembled everything correctly, it will be running over 1000rpm immediately.

Before you start it, verify the firing order and wire positions. (a common error)

Like I said, you really want to avoid idle speeds; get the oil circulating at full pressure and run the cam in.

If there is a problem, just shut it down and fix the issue. (Job #1 is don't overheat it)

Dino Hi Zinc oil is what you want for the lifters.

All 4 plugs in, Rotella oil, high idle, good to go. Pat

If you haven't already started it, one more tip: be sure to fill the carb bowls up with fuel before you attempt. Allows the engine to start immediately w/o waiting for fuel delivery. j

Thanks JT. I haven’t had time to get ready to start it, I’m needing the exhaust system finished.

I’ve cranked it over & have about 35 psi oil pressure on an external gauge. My timing light died so I’m digging up one to borrow. I’ll fill the carbs before starting it, hopefully by by Monday.

Medical procedure today & busy tomorrow morning.

There is a light at the end of the tunnel!

Well, the light @ the end of the tunnel looks to be a train coming the other way!

Got the engine running for about 20 minutes at 3k-4k, then rechecked the valves, timing & adjusted the carbs & things looked great until I looked underneath & found an 8” puddle of oil under the bell housing! I wasn’t real confident about the rear seal, so I pulled the pan & rear bearing cap & everything looked good. The back of the engine was dry too. I bought some oil leak detector dye & added it to the engine, ran it for about 5 minutes & grabbed the UV kit. Yup, the dye was there so I pulled the drivetrain & split it. Strange, the flywheel & block behind the flywheel looked fine.

Turns out the 5-speed input seal was bad! This a new to me trans that was supposedly rebuilt by one of our reputable shops but has been sitting for about 10 years. Ordered rear & front seals & replaced them today & will put the drivetrain back in tomorrow.

Oh, it turns out that the reason the leak Looked like was from the engine is because Red Line MT-85 looks almost exactly like the dyed engine oil!

Peace, Pat

Oh, the trans had been rebuilt, plenty of white grease on the shims behind the bell housing.

Bummer Pat, at least you got it sorted and it wasn't something more serious. Relighting the light at the end of the tunnel...........

The #1 reason to hate classic cars: They always seem to find a way to steal your time, money, hope and joy. Then, to top it off, make a mockery of all your hard work - They plan it, at nights, in the garage. I know they do!

If I wasn’t so ‘nostalgic’ addicted, I would have been done with them long ago.

Glad you got it sorted Pat