Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

So is it just me or anyone else have the issue of leaky oil pan? I’ve replaced cork gaskets several times over the years using Permatex aviation goo and torqued to specs but they all eventually leak on me. Anyone have a proven method that’s worked for you?

Where is it leaking, front, rear or side of the pan?

I replied but I don’t think it went through.

Is the leak in your the same location each time? If so, it could be a warped pan.

If I remember correctly aviation Permatex is Permatex #3 which is intended for machined metal to metal joints. Permatex #2 is intended for gaskets.

Peace,
Pat

It seems to come from the frontal area but oil seems to wick up the 10 mm bolts to top lip of block too. Just never dry for me. I R/R the oil and installed new gasket with Permatex and waited 2 days before starting. No oil on lower front timing cover ahead of pan.

Think the Right Stuff might be worth a try? I’ve been using Permatex Form A Gasket #80019

The best way to find your leak is to thoroughly clean the engine get all the oil and grease off and while it is dry put talcum powder on all the engine areas that could potentially leak and then run it. Fluids don’t run upwards so start looking at the bottom and move up the engine. Many times people mistake the origins of the leak. Good luck.
Dave

Try silicone for this , every car had this problem at some point before they went to silicone
How much blowby is there?
Front case will drip down , rear seal ?

My preferred method for the valve cover and oil pan gaskets is to use "yellow death" weather strip adhesive and glue the gasket to the pan or cover. Then a thin coat of Permatex ultra blue between the gasket and engine. The gasket is permanently attached to the part and will not move around. Also the pan/cover can be removed and reinstalled several times without destroying the gasket.

Oddly enough, just pulled my comp pan after about five years (no leaks). I was turned on to the black Toyota RTV by JT and obviously it worked. However, a heads-up - it was a bitch/impossible to get the pan off in 40-ish weather. I finally used a heat gun to warm things up. After that, it came off “normally.” I presume it gets very hard when it’s cold…

It's not cork ,it's cork particles molded in rubber
and oil swells rubber. But newer engine that use RTV seals both mating surfaces have a recessed trough ,not flat

Irrelephant

Appreciate all the suggestions, will try the Right stuff without the gasket as it worked for Daryl. Thanks,

I can vouch for the Toyota or equivalent sealant.

bakerjf wrote: ↑Sat Feb 04, 2023 11:55 am Oddly enough, just pulled my comp pan after about five years (no leaks). I was turned on to the black Toyota RTV by JT and obviously it worked. However, a heads-up - it was a bitch/impossible to get the pan off in 40-ish weather. I finally used a heat gun to warm things up. After that, it came off “normally.” I presume it gets very hard when it’s cold…

Yep, the Toyota FIPG is bullet proof. Most of the 2JZ and other Toyota engines are assembled with it.

Permatex Ultra black is really good as well and available everywhere.

AV cement would be a poor choice for this application-Not sure who suggested that??

Success has nothing to do with the cork material and (like lots of roadster gaskets) is more about attention to detail and technique. Refer to SpongeBob.

As John mentioned, if you want it sealed up permanently, coat both sides of the gasket. If you want it easily removable, (but probably will ooze a little) coat just one side if the gasket. j

Ok, so the Toyota RTV is applied metal to metal ? No need for gasket?