The Quick/Small/(Stupid?) Question Thread-take 3

[Gregs672000]

Did it backfire through the carbs? If so, that could have suggested a blockage or an air leak of some kind causing fuel starvation. Overflow out the pipes would have been a stuck fuel float or needle valve. If it does it again, pull two plugs to see if they are burning differently in 1/2 vs 3/4 and that will help isolate the carb (wouldn't hurt to check them anyway). Another source of this kind of running is a failing points condenser on the side of the distributor. When they fail they start a variable power/no power running issue very similar to what you described... seen it many times. The float "fix" might be unrelated...

[krispoulin]

Thanks for all the info!

It did not backfire through the carbs.
I saw no signs of fuel overflow. (I ran hoses from the pipes down to frame level, so checked the ground once I parked.)
I have East Coast EI distributor...

Unfortunately, life is dictating that I won't be able to drive the car again until late October, but I'll definitely check all of these again then.

Did it backfire through the carbs? If so, that could have suggested a blockage or an air leak of some kind causing fuel starvation. Overflow out the pipes would have been a stuck fuel float or needle valve. If it does it again, pull two plugs to see if they are burning differently in 1/2 vs 3/4 and that will help isolate the carb (wouldn't hurt to check them anyway). Another source of this kind of running is a failing points condenser on the side of the distributor. When they fail they start a variable power/no power running issue very similar to what you described... seen it many times. The float "fix" might be unrelated...

[Gregs672000]

Eh... it's an old car... like me!

[70-1600]

I've started the conversion of my '70 1600 car's mechanical tach to electrical (R16 7K version), following what other members (spyder, funkaholik) did with theirs (U20 8K version). I sourced a used '70 model 7K tach as the donor, and a 7K Autometer for the electronics. https://www.autometer.com/3-1-8-tach-7- ... -elec.html

When I put the modified tach in (and remove the existing mechanical tach from my car) I plan to discard the tach cable. Question: does anyone know what the thread size is on the distributor side of the cable? I'll want to cap that off at the engine side after removing the cable.

Progress so far swapping the faces, which was easier than anticipated and no hot glue required.

New Face vs Stock Face.jpeg

Stock Face Attached.jpeg

TIA.

-jt

[nismou20]

When I was playing around with electric tach mod I took the knurled knob off the discarded cable and stuck a coin and O-ring inside to seal it off. The only caveat to this is you may want to keep the cable.

[spyder]

Not 100% sure because I remover the distro years ago but I believe there is a seal in the base so it shouldn't leak if you remove the cable.

[krispoulin]

1967/low windshield car:
Somehow, the small pin that keeps the handle attached to the wing window has fallen out and gone missing. Does anyone know the size of that thing? Or what I should search for as a replacement?

Thank you!

[Nded]

1967/low windshield car:
Somehow, the small pin that keeps the handle attached to the wing window has fallen out and gone missing. Does anyone know the size of that thing? Or what I should search for as a replacement?

Thank you!

That's called a knurled pin. Sin City Datsuns may have them available.

[Stick]

Stupid question:
Need to remove my center arm rest .. looks like it's held in by four screws (mine are small heads with a smaller Allen key).... the bolts are so tight that they don't want to turn freely and the wrench is so small it wants to bend a bit.

Before I put the muscle into it and risk stripping the Allen head, can someone tell me if they have nuts on the bottom of the car or if they are just threaded into a tapped hole? Something so easy shouldn't be this difficult!!

Thanks

[theunz]

If you are talking about the 4 that are inside the console then they just screw into the body, no nuts underneath. However it looks like someone swapped the original screws with Allen bolts, so who knows! You could get a T handle Allen wrench for more leverage, or if you can find a socket that the Allen wrench fits FIRMLY into you can then cut a piece off of your Allen wrench and use a ratchet for more leverage. As a last resort you could drill the heads off the Allen bolts and then try to remove them with some vice grips after removing the console. Good luck.

[Bwk2000]

A good soaking with PB Blaster should also help coax them loose.

[Stick]

If you are talking about the 4 that are inside the console then they just screw into the body, no nuts underneath. However it looks like someone swapped the original screws with Allen bolts, so who knows! You could get a T handle Allen wrench for more leverage, or if you can find a socket that the Allen wrench fits FIRMLY into you can then cut a piece off of your Allen wrench and use a ratchet for more leverage. As a last resort you could drill the heads off the Allen bolts and then try to remove them with some vice grips after removing the console. Good luck.

Thank you Mike ... I wasn't quite sure but suspected that they were just screwed into the body. Some good ideas to get some leverage and a last resort of drilling out ... hope it doesn't come to that.

I'm a bit hesitant to spray the PB blaster inside the armrest console as it's lined with a material I don't want to damage.

Thanks!

[theunz]

That’s why I didn’t mention the penetrant. If you need to reline the console then trunk mat which is like a thick felt works great. I bought mine at Oreilly’s, although they may use a different name for it.

[Bwk2000]

That’s why I didn’t mention the penetrant. If you need to reline the console then trunk mat which is like a thick felt works great. I bought mine at Oreilly’s, although they may use a different name for it.

That’s similar to what I used as well (with a self adhesive backing) when I needed to pull the console for whatever reason (carpet, electrical). My screws were a bit rusted in so soaking them for a while was a necessity if I didn’t want to risk breaking the heads off and deal with that too (again). The felt material was cheap (and easy) to replace so I didn’t worry much about the mess. I guess it might be a different story if you were preserving the original lining - Broken screw/bolt heads have been my nemesis on this car

[david premo]

Stick,
You can raise your car go under it and spray whatever penetrates you want and it won’t be a problem from underneath the car.
Dave