Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Came across this on an old post. Can anyone confirm if they have tried this valve lash adjusting method on a R16 (using our specific HOT or COLD clearances of course).

Would be a nice time saver … if it works.

Ya, you could likely do this, I think it may vary a bit based on the cam and when the ramp/lift begins. How about you investigate? Follow the procedure then compare to doing it individually to see if there is any difference. Then all R16 owners would know! Hey, you asked!

Alas, I just did mine in May. Maybe next time if no one beats me to it.

Would still like to hear from someone who has tried this before though.

Ours at Datsun , was
With a starter button hooked up
Bumping the motor over
#2 exhaust down, then up, when intake starts down (swapping)...adjust , #3 valves ... then reverse this
Then do the same with 1 & 4

In response to the request from Kai, Yes. For the last couple decades+, that time-saver has been used repeatedly. On engines with firing order of 1-3-4-2. ( Another British toy in my care fires with 1-2-4-3 order).
Caveat: the print of the article showed rather fuzzy on my "small/ancient" screen, sorry.

But, it seems to say; hot engine/TDC compression on #1...adjust valves 1,2,3 and 5 to appropriate clearance, then rotate crank ONE complete to TDC #4...adjust valves 4,6,7 and 8 as needed. Job done! Laziness is the mother of invention, thus electric auto windows.

For 50 years, I've always adjusted valves on OHV 4 cylinder / 8 valve cars, this way...i.e...Volvos, mostly, a couple MGs, and of course my one and only roadster....
Valves adjustment order will vary according to the firing order, but yes, its a real time saver ....I think I first came across this method in one my old Chilton Volvo manuals.

Good to know! Thanks for the confirmation all. I’ll start using this method as well

I’ve cleaned up the original image a bit for those that want to save it (or view it on an ‘80s monitor ) and made it R16 specific.

I use the "Rule of Nine" method of adjusting R-16 engines, Look it up, you will see how easy it is.

I've not hear of that, so I Googled it...also interesting,...to me anyway...

http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/ruleofnine.htm

YMMV

I have been setting valves on all 4 cylinder engines by using the 180 degree rule, as that is how I used to do V-8 engines. To set the number one exhaust valve, the number 4 exhaust needs to be fully open. You can prove this by looking at any overhead cam shaft and see what I’m saying.
Dave

Bwk2000 - regarding the cold/hot specs, I've found that the lash increases when hot on the aluminum head. .017 hot works out to about .013 cold on my car. Is it possible that spec is for the cast iron head?

On a U20, I've found 6in and 8ex cold are 8 and 10 hot respectively.

mblue97 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 24, 2022 10:00 pm Bwk2000 - regarding the cold/hot specs, I've found that the lash increases when hot on the aluminum head. .017 hot works out to about .013 cold on my car. Is it possible that spec is for the cast iron head?

As far as Nissan/Datsun are concerned, it’s equally applicable to both. I don’t think the pushrod engines are that picky; the tolerances are quite liberal. You can definitely play with the valve lash to quiet the rockers down for your specific engine and maybe squeeze a little bit more power out of it. However, and this is a big one, if you over do it, you can very quickly burn out your exhaust valve(s), or worse - Not a cheap repair at any rate.

As a daily driver (read: reliable), I personally just adjust them to factory specs (Hot preferably) and leave it there - That’s good enough for me. I am looking forward to trying the above adjustment method next time though