Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Apologies in advance for any dumb questions, but I'm not much of a suspension guy. I discovered that my passenger side upper A-arm is missing the rear-facing nut and bushing, pictured below. I've ordered an upper A-arm pivot shaft kit, which includes the pivot shafts, both metal retaining nuts with zerk fittings, both retaining washers, and both bushes. I hope to only need the one nut, retainer and bushing, but I got the complete kit just in case. Can the bush and nut be replaced without removal of the A-arm or disassembling the suspension? How about if I have to replace the pivot shaft as well?

The only dumb question is the one that isn’t asked.

I suspect that having the one bushing missing has messed up the front one also, so I’d replace both. The shaft is probably damaged so I’d install the whole kit, rather than have to tear it down again in the near future. I’d check that the upper A-frame hasn’t been damaged also.

I’d remove the upper A-frame to do this job, those hex bushings are REALLY tight. That also gives you the chance to fully inspect things.

Peace,
Pat

Habitat.Pat you make some good points there, thanks.

If the bushings turn free on the spindle
You likely need to.mig spot weld the caps to the arm

redroadster I'm not sure if you're pulling my leg here, but isn't that what the lock washer is for (#57 in the parts diagram, above)? It's a flat washer with tabs you fold onto the flats of the bushing / cap. I'm guessing a previous owner forgot these.

Having just been through the front end of my car I would offer this, while the car is on the ground with the wheels on, first give the top of the wheel, 12 o'clock, a tug. If it really moves its the upper ball joint. If your here and fell a thud, thats the a-arm. It could be upper or lower. Mine was the lower.

If you grab the wheel at three and nine and give it a shake, movement indicates the wheel bearings. This could also be the tie-rods. Some things can be tightened, the wheel bearings as an example, but the condition of the rubber boots on all the connections that have a zerk fitting are a tell. Ripped or missing boot means little or no grease.

Getting the car up on jack stands with the wheels off the car its much like a visit to your GP, when you have to have to have that exam.

Other than the upper and lower ball joints, changed by the previous owner, I got to replace everything on my car. It was all warn out. Yep, not fun but I know my car is now safe and ready for the road.

David

Fairlady5150 wrote: Tue Jun 21, 2022 6:23 am redroadster I'm not sure if you're pulling my leg here, but isn't that what the lock washer is for (#57 in the parts diagram, above)? It's a flat washer with tabs you fold onto the flats of the bushing / cap. I'm guessing a previous owner forgot these.

If the cap goes into the arm very snugly yes , but I've had some to replace that were not very & tight keep spinning ,really needs a new arm then , but you know , I started them in by hand and finished with a impact gun on half power
Time is $ , some tighten and stop others did not
Just from.the pic I wouldn't do the job without a quality control arm