UPDATED: Help - How do you remove Temp/Oil Pressure Gauge - Flat dash car

[SP3]

Embarrassingly spent more time than imagined in trying to pull the factory Temp/Oil pressure combo gauge on a ‘67.5

I have every screw I can see on the gauge/bracket removed and the gauge still won’t budge from dash. Assume the gauges were installed when dash was out of car by prior owner.

Is there a commonly known way or hack to get this gauge out? I have both the speedo and tach out for access and removed the steering wheel and seat from car.



I got the clock out no problem as it attaches like conventional gauges with the “U” bracket on back.
On that note, I am enlarging the clock opening in the dash to accommodate a 2-5/8” gauge. This gauge has that “U” bracket to attach to dash face and ground gauge.

I noticed there is not much dash surface area between the right side of clock and Amp/Fuel combo gauge. For those that have added a larger gauge to the clock opening was there enough dash real estate for the “U” bracket of 2-5/8” gauge beside the Amp gauge?

If not worst-case I guess could make a custom “U” bracket that spanned both gauges (legs grounding on left side of Temp gauge and right side of Amp gauge).

[Habitat.pat]

The temp/oil pressure gauge is mounted with 3 screws. With the speedo & tach removed you should have no problem removing it. It comes out the back of the dash. I think the clock is the only instrument that has the U shaped mounting bracket. Check out https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/s ... re-gauge#2.

Peace,
Pat

[spl310]

If you have the 3 screws removed, it could be the dust seal stuck between the gauge and the dash. A piece of fishing line can be used to cut that loose.

[SP3]

Thanks,

Yes, I got the 3 main screws out ( 1 at top and 2 at bottom). Not familiar with finishing line and where I would insert to cut or free from dust seal.

So if understanding correctly, the bezel for this gauge comes through dash as well, exiting to rear of dash? Or does main gauge body separate from bezel that is on face of dash?

Will check assembly exploded view to see if I can tell.

[SP3]

Misread your reply SPL310, understood re. Fishing line. My interpretation is I route the fishing line between the gauge and dash face and pull around circumference of gauge?

Took some picks of gauge and back side of dash. Is the contact of the gauge mount and bracket off firewall correct? It looks forced with the gauge mount recessed by force and also preventing gauge from coming out of back of dash.

Also my gauge looks like it has a bezel that is larger than hole cutout preventing exit from rear of dash.

[SP3]

See images

[Habitat.pat]

The bezel should push out the back. There isn’t much extra room.

I forgot about the seal, it here weren’t any on any of my gauges.

Peace,
Pat

[SP3]

Does the gauge push through the silver gauge mount or whole assembly backs out?

As in picture the gauge mount is jammed against the upper steering column mount bracket to point of cutting into the gauge mount bracket.

Is the dust seal that black piece that surrounds the gauge mount?
Carparts page did not show deeper breakdown of gauge assembly.

[Gregs672000]

My surround on the gauge does not look anything like that. Yours appears swelled or blistered, even rubber in appearance. Mine are not, they are metal. Somethings amiss. 67.5, same dash etc.

[SP3]

Greg,

That’s not the issue. The PO in attempt at restoring the dash looks to have used that textured trunk paint and went heavy with it.

The gauge does push through the dash opening with exception of the bottom area which is obstructed by that upper steering column support bracket.

Took a picture from speedo opening side as well to see contact/obstruction. Is this correct? This appears to be keeping the gauge from coming out. I don’t see anyway to move that bracket as it is welded/attached without fasteners to the rear of the dash structure (closest to windshield).

Unless I am missing something it seems the only way to resolve is to pull the dash face which I would rather not due - just replacing a gauge.

[SP3]

It looks like feedback on this is that the windshield and dash pad need to be removed to get the dash face off to pull the temp gauge. Can’t believe Datsun would design this assy with that much removal to replace the gauge but apparently so.

As a possible short cut, can anyone advise on the minimum fasteners that need to be removed to cheat the lower portion of dash face back (towards seat) enough to allow pushing lower section of gauge through rear of dash face (about 1/4”)? The top portion can be pushed through, the lower portion of gauge is blocked by the upper steering column support bracket.

Hopefully just bottom dash screws and maybe windshield bolts. Hoping to avoid pulling the dash pad.

If windshield bolts are removed, can the windshield be reattached as 1-man job?

[Habitat.pat]

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner, my phone died & I just now got access to my computer. The whole gauge pushes out the back, bezel included.

That's really odd. I installed my gauges into my 67.5 dash after the dash was in the car without a problem. Can you rotate the gauge in the hole? I'll slide under the dash & have a look at mine but without a phone I can't shoot a photo!.

Peace,
Pat

[Habitat.pat]

OK, I see the difference between my car and yours. The steering column mount is higher on your car than mine. The bottom of my gauge is above the top of the bracket.

In looking at the column mounting bracket it appears that the straps around the steering shaft are not in the right location, causing the welded in bracket to sit too high. My column sits almost completely above the ears on the welded bracket. The column brackets are not the same, one has a slight bend while the other is much deeper. On my car the deep one goes over the column & the flatter one goes under it. Try removing the brackets that hold the column to the welded bracket & see if you can bend the welded bracket down enough to clear the gauge. In looking at the parts drawings for body/instrument&console/panel, it shows the large one on the bottom. The shape of the shallower one is not the same in the drawing as mine, mine is much flatter, actually going up into the welded bracket about 1/4", allowing the steering column bottom to sit about even with the bolt tabs. CURTIS, Do you remember how yours is?

I also question the clearance between the column & the hole in the dash. Mine is a rather tight fit. Might the column have been changed out by the PO?

Peace,
Pat

[SP3]

Thanks Pat,

I will continue to see if I can get any movement in the support bracket to squeeze the gauge by. The PO restored the car from parts and 2 cars purchased and who knows if correct. I had some 240Z bits etc.

Relieved not tackling windshield etc. removal yet.

Thanks for help.

[bmccarthy67]

I'm with Pat on the bracket and maybe the PO installed wrong when moving parts from the parts car. The black bracket that holds the steering shaft looks flipped on your car. The two piece bracket that holds the rubber isolator should have the loop side installed up into the firewall bracket that should push everything up for you. It may be hard to see but if you look on my website under resto (Jan 2022) there is a photo (pedals & steering) that you can download and zoom on and you will see that flipping that bracket will push the column up. Hope that its that simple and not any actual damage to the firewall bracket that forced the PO to flip that.

v/r
Buddy