Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Why is my U20 so difficult to remove or install? I’ve had it in and out several times over the years and fought it every time. I’ve pulled several different makes of engines before and none were anywhere close to being as difficult as my Datsun. I always hang up on either the oil pan (aluminum comp)or the header(mid seventies aftermarket, but looks just like current popular option). In the past I have had to remove or install the header to get it in or out. When I pulled it out a month ago I dropped the pan first and that helped, so when I put it back in yesterday I temporarily installed the OEM pan, but still had to resort to removing it. I go in at what I think is a steep enough angle, but either the header hangs up on the left motor mount, or if manipulate the engine to clear the header the oil pan hits the right hand motor mount. I never read of anyone else having any problems, so I must be doing something wrong, but what??

I think you answered your own question you have two significantly larger and different shaped parts bolted to it. The comp pan is yuuge.

cbez wrote: Tue Mar 01, 2022 10:08 am I think you answered your own question you have two significantly larger and different shaped parts bolted to it. The comp pan is yuuge.

Mike, I've always had the same problem. I have the comp pan, headers and solexes and even after removing the headers and carbs, I still have to tilt the motor at a crazy angle to remove it. Try moving the car slightly at the same time, as that seems to help some.

Although Will makes it look easy, it is challenging for most of us lesser mortals:



For anyone about to pull/reinstall their U20 for the first time, a word of advice: Lay a 3/4" sheet of plywood on the windshield to protect it. I have purchased three (yes, THREE) SRLs with windshields busted from a swinging motor. All had stock components.

I have a few scrapes on the comp pan and as I recall I usually unbolted the header and removed the intake, but yes it is tight. I have as much issue with the rod that operates the gas pedal and have removed it in the past as I have a hook to connect my chain mounted at the trans/engine connection. Angle is critical, but I did not find a load leveler to be as useful as I had hoped this last time... it may have helped a little. Rad and the rod it bolts to must come out too. The image of Will above shows the correct angle of attack.

I have used a load leveler and I really like it. My recommendation is to spring for the better one. MUCH better, although the cheapie works too.

Well, you guys make me feel better, but I was really hoping some would say “hey you idiot all you have to do is…” and then next time it would be a breeze.

I use a load leveler, and can get some pretty extreme angles, and can get the engine in and out by myself with it. Couple of caveats to your situation of course, and they are not small: 1st, I have an H20, I have a header, I do not remove it, but I do NOT have the comp oil pan or solexes to deal with.

Great video by Will, thanks for posting it. If I remember correctly, the solexes have to come off, otherwise they will interfere with the brake master.

Mike

It also depends on the year. There are subtle differences in the frames and brackets etc that hang things up on the earlier cars.
Even though it might be some extra work, I almost always pull the manifolds. It just gives so much better access to everything down low on the left side. j