Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

First off this is a great group! I've been lurking for a couple months, and appreciate the positive attitude and general helpfulness of the users.

I'm new to Datsun's and I have a recently purchased 69 2000 roadster, that I just found has a crack in the block (about 12"), and low oil pressure when warm. The motor has approx 87M miles. The block damage looks like it froze at some point. I checked the other common problems with the motor and it seems fine.

Do I weld the block, get some new rings, bearings and have a go?

Or do I just start over? And with what? a rebuilt 2000 or 1600? Or something newer?

I already have a couple project cars and really didn't intend on having a third....

Any help and insight would be appreciated.

Mike

I have a crack free block for sale. I think it's difficult to repair one, depending where the crack is. A 12" crack seems problematic. The low oil pressure is a symptom of the guage, usually, unless your bearings are worn. Replace the block, and get new pistons, rings and bearings, after seeing what your pistons are. You should have it checked. My block is bored .020 over. Pat

Low Oil pressure when warm is not unusual at idle, does the pressure jump when revved?
Repair definitely depends on location. Might want to check with JT68 for some guidance. I don't know of any engine guru's in MI, but perhaps other members here can steer you to someone local?

Crack in the outer case? Like it froze the water jacket and cracked ?
Sure seems a waist trying to save

notoptoy wrote: Mon Oct 04, 2021 10:13 pm
Repair definitely depends on location. Might want to check with JT68 for some guidance. I don't know of any engine guru's in MI, but perhaps other members here can steer you to someone local?

Hi Guys, yep, I'd suggest buying Pat's block since it has been cleaned/magnafluxed and is known good.

Cast iron block welds almost never work because as the iron cools it almost always cracks at the end of the weld. Even if not initially, after a few dozen heat cycles.

I have seen small brazing /nickel alloy repairs work fine, but a 12" crack is a non-starter. That one is scrap metal since it would generally not be advisable to spend a bunch of money for rebuilding an engine around a known bad block.

Pat's block would certainly be first choice IMHO. As always, feel free to contact us for additional assistance!

Thanks Jim, for future reference, what is the best way to ship a bare block, $ wise? Pat

I can’t advise on pricing, but I guarantee it won’t be handled with kid gloves. I would go to somewhere like Lowe’s or Home Depot and buy a HEAVY DUTY plastic storage bin. Pad the heck out of it with foam padding or old blankets or such. The possibilities of it getting dropped from five or six feet are real. Make it tight enough in the container that it can’t move. Tape an address label on the block, inside the container, and of course the outside of the container.
If possible zip tie the lid to the container or if not tape the snot out of it!
Understand the shipping companies insurance policies, most will only pay pennies on the dollar for used items if lost or damaged.

"That one is scrap metal since it would generally not be advisable to spend a bunch of money for rebuilding an engine around a known bad block."

I've seen some pretty handsome wine racks made from blocks. Not sure how the bore on a U20 compares to a wine bottle, but there may be other salvage value before it goes to scrap:)

Dick Tillinger used to have a U20 serving as a wine rack.

I shipped a 1500 block in a banana box. I cut a couple of pieces of 3/4 plywood to fit inside the box. I drilled the plywood to bolt the block to it top and bottom with hardware store bolts. I taped the box liberally. It shipped fine. I'd use the same tactic with the tub

theunz wrote: Wed Oct 06, 2021 12:33 pm I can’t advise on pricing, but I guarantee it won’t be handled with kid gloves. I would go to somewhere like Lowe’s or Home Depot and buy a HEAVY DUTY plastic storage bin. Pad the heck out of it with foam padding or old blankets or such. The possibilities of it getting dropped from five or six feet are real. Make it tight enough in the container that it can’t move. Tape an address label on the block, inside the container, and of course the outside of the container.

This is good advice. As discussed it can go greyhound, but they have a low height requirement.

The other good method is put a piece of plywood under it, strap it to a small strong pallet, then wrap it well in bubble and plastic stretch wrap. The advantage of the pallet is that it provides a wooden cushion below, AND, it pretty much forces them to use a pallet jack or lift- that often (not always) reduces the chance of damage.

The back of your car is often the very safest method. Road trip? Hope this helps!

When I bought my 5 speed from Simon, I bought a Rubbermaid Action Packer, which are approved by Fedex and UPS, from Amazon and had it delivered to his house with the bubble and shrink wrap I bought as well. He packaged it well with bubble wrap and wrapped it with shrink wrap and it got here with here with barely a scratch in the action packer and now I have a nice place to store extra parts.

Mike

What's the approximate weight of the block? I went to the Greyhound sight, the instant quote function won't accept any weight over 100 pounds.

A road trip would be fun, but a 4400 mile round trip doesn't fit in the schedule

Thank you all for your time!

Mike