Duralast Thermostat 15858 Confirmed?

[DAC21]

Parts interchange says this 180 degree thermostat is "supposed" to work on numerous Datsun's including the 1600/2000 Roadster. I need one for a 67 /1600. Confirmed?? I see 10 Thermostat applications for Nissan 1600 but the L4 series engine at RockAuto, will those work as well?

TIA

[spl310]

Probably, but with the finicky nature of the 1600 cooling system and the high cost of a blown head gasket, I would get the best one I could find...

[DAC21]

Probably, but with the finicky nature of the 1600 cooling system and the high cost of a blown head gasket, I would get the best one I could find...

That's fine, I'm just an not sure what that would be? The higher priced Gates I found for the L4 are 195 degree, I think I want to stick to 180, there are Beck/Arnley, Stant, AC Delco. I think many are probably made by the same manufacture. Since the price difference is only about $3 low to high i don't care about that, just one that fits and has recommendations from the board.

Dean is only selling a 160 degree thermostat. I believe that was a one of the options originally sold by Datsun, I'm just not sure what particular climate that one would be recommended for? I'm in hot Inland Empire So Cal, but realistically the car will be a weekend driver and probably not very much when the temp gets north of 90 degrees.

[spl310]

Nissan...

[DAC21]

Nissan...

Screenshot_20210428-190955.png

[spl310]

There are other part numbers from Nissan that are still good if I am not mistaken. That being said, I have never had a bad Stant thermostat. Robertshaw was pretty good too.

[devo]

I just put in the Stant 45858 Premium 180 Degree thermostat last week. So far, so good. I removed the 160 degree that I had in there. Car now has better combustion and runs better. A noticeable decline in smelling "rich".

[Daryl Smith]

This is something I have pondered a few times over the last few years, and read a little about, so, my $ 0.02, for what it’s worth:

1) longevity - somewhere I read that the least wear on engine components was when temps were around the 190* mark, whether this also meant the best fuel efficiency, I cannot remember. I also seem to remember that manufacturers currently are running temps over 200*, likely for efficiency. Our cars were not built for high temps of 200* or more, but, 190* should be doable, if you wanted to experiment...

2) power - For those dedicated to power increases, a lower thermostat temp translates to a slightly lower intake air temp and therefore a slight bump in air density/power at the slight cost of efficiency and increased wear. If you do a search, quite often a 160* thermostat is recommended.

For my own car I am going with a 180* thermostat. This is a good compromise for me as I’m not looking for the most power or efficiency.
As a side note, I recently ran my car (1800 cc stroker, EFI, crank fired ignition) without a thermostat (somehow forgot to put it in). Oddly, around town it ran in the desired temp range. When it got over the set temp the computer turned the fan on and it cooled quickly. Once on the highway however, the temps quickly cooled so much that the temp gauge pegged cold...??
Had me confused as I didn’t expect that from a thermostat problem, and thought the thermostat was in.
My radiator is a recored 1600 rad with 3 rows. What this tells me is that the cooling system for the car is more than adequate if your fuel and ignition is in the proper range, regardless of aluminum or iron head. YMMV.

[DAC21]

I just put in the Stant 45858 Premium 180 Degree thermostat last week. So far, so good. I removed the 160 degree that I had in there. Car now has better combustion and runs better. A noticeable decline in smelling "rich".

I see that P/N over at Rockauto "Superstat" 180. I think I'll go with that one as well only via eBay. $6 less than Rock because of ridiculous shipping vs free.

[Solex68]

Thumbs up on the Stant 45858 Premium 180 Degree thermostat ! I run the same and I love it. Been in my car for years, never had an issue.

[Daryl Smith]

Related discussion:
http://www.311s.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.ph ... 1d8efec45a

[theunz]

It’s been awhile since I’ve had my thermostat off, does it use an O-ring or a paper gasket for a seal?
Where are you getting said O-ring or gasket. Prefer to buy that locally since the shipping would be more than the part.
TIA.

[Daryl Smith]

For the thermostat you should be able to pick up a gasket almost anywhere. I've looked at lots of housings at the wreckers that look very similar to the roadster, and have a Ford T-stat housing on my 1800.
(A certain Subaru Legacy aluminum housing looked like a fit in pictures, but, couldn't find one at the wreckers.) ymmv

After a couple of stubborn leaks (area around thermostat worn), I just use 'The Right Stuff' as a gasket replacement. No Gasket, no leaks. A bit harder to remove the housing afterwards, and clean off parts when taken apart, but, seals up very well.
Also used it on my home compressor for the head gasket. No gasket, no leaks, for months now with extensive usage.

[spl310]

After a couple of stubborn leaks (area around thermostat worn), I just use 'The Right Stuff' as a gasket replacement. No Gasket, no leaks. A bit harder to remove the housing afterwards, and clean off parts when taken apart, but, seals up very well.

Here's a tip to make life easier next time. Dress the water neck on a belt sander to ensure that it is dead flat. Use the Right Stuff on the head side, then a paper gasket, then the water neck. The neck will seal and will be able to be removed easily.