Wiring clean up and updated fuse block

[The Neck]

Hi everyone,

I'm doing some wiring updating to my 67.5, and I have a few questions, and maybe even some clarification. Who knows, maybe I've wiring something odd and could use the second opinion.

A few months ago I installed a new 93mm 40 amp alternator with 3 wire connections. I also ordered this Fuse block as an updated fuse box.

I'm going through the wiring harness and have 5 wires that feed the fuse block. I'm looking at the diagram and see I can easily remove the green and white wire coming from the starter, but have the remaining on the same terminal. I'm also thinking I can "delete" the black and white wire that's split heading to the resistor.

Ultimately what I'm after, is how can I clean up the 5 wires, and have the minimal amount going to the positive terminal on the new fuse block. I think I can remove the green and white, black and white, and maybe even both black and whites.

From my basic understanding, I would be able to have only the thick white and black on the positive terminal, and delete the rest. The black and white wire coming from the alternator should be able to be connected to the main terminal signaling it to turn on if I'm not mistaken.

Hopefully this makes some sort of sense with what I'm doing and what I'm after. I will be going to a EI dizzy in the next couple weeks once it arrives, but I don't think that will make much of a difference to this block.

Pics of fuse block and wiring diagram

[C.Costine]

I don't recall off hand which, but one fuse on my '67 is there so that the horn will work with the ignition off.

[jrusso07]

Here's my thoughts. First, I have late model cars and the fuses are different but looking quickly at the 67.5 schematic, I think you need two independent 12v feeds to the fuse box - one from the battery (Green and white wire) to run lights and such when the ignition is off and one for the ignition and ammeter circuits from alternator when the car is running. (Heavy white along with the black like you said). I am not sure the new fuse block can support this since it appears to want a single 12v bus feeding the accessory fuses. You may need two fuse blocks (one for lights and one for ignition) or try to disconnect one (maybe more) of the accessory fuses from the 12v bus ( the bus is where the battery connects to your new fuse block). It doesn't seem likely that you can disconnect accessory fuses from the 12v bus as I assume the accessory fuses are connected to the bus through thick metal tabs/frame.

Just my thoughts on this, I am not familiar with the 67/5 car but I am sure others know for sure (Curtis?)

BTW this fuse block has two separate 12v busses https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Negativ ... r=8-3&th=1

[jrusso07]

Another thought is to use an in line fuse for the green/white battery power circuit...

[Curtis]

The 67.5 has the same box as the 66-67.

http://kendo-usa.org/datsun/66_67_datsu ... rcuits.pdf

One problem is you're trying to use a single bus fuse box in place of the stock box. Stock box has battery and ignition circuits.

[The Neck]

After some discussion with a local Roadster guy I decided to keep the stock set up just how it is. I'll be adding a fuse block for extras suck as fuel pump, upgraded stereo, etc as I go, but that's a slow process.