Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Just checking.

Just remove all the bolts under the windshield and pull ??

No other bolts etc. apart from electric/oil lines??

Pm sent

Can I get the same PM?
I'm not there yet, but hope to be in the next few months.
High Windshield.

Thanks.

pm sent

If I remember correctly, there is a bolt under the dash pad that has to be removed to get the dash out, which requires removing the dash pad.

I'm looking for information on how to remove dash and dash pad for restoration (1968). Is there a publication that shows how to do this?

Please post the PM info, thanks!

RonnyB wrote: Thu Apr 22, 2021 10:04 am Please post the PM info, thanks!

I second that... if there's good info in those PMs, I'd love to read them. Thanks!

For ‘68-‘70

Hope this helps.

First, remove center console - 4 machine screws in the console. Carefully lift up and disconnect the wiring for the the interior light and cigarette lighter. Put aside.

Next, remove gear shift knob and then shifter plater. Put aside.

Radio console has 4 screws along the bottom (2 each side), and 2 screws on the top (1 each side). Remove them. Next, disconnect the choke cables at the carbs. At this time, also disconnect the hand throttle cable from the post there, and loosen the clamp that holds it in place. Once this is done, slide the console back a few inches and disconnect the plugs behind it for all the switches. You should also see the the antenna connection on the driver's side, as well as a power lead for the radio and speaker wires. Label them if you think you need to. Once those are all clear, remove the console and put aside.

On to the main dash. Remove the vent knobs on each side and bag them. Remove the three knobs for the air controls and bag them too. Next remove the three screws holding the air assembly in place. Go back to the driver's side and remove the dash panel underneath the steering column. Now, remove the ignition clamshell, and remove the 4 bolts that hold the steering column up. Loosen, but do not remove the 4 bolts that hold the column against the firewall. Next remove the 4 screws (2 each side) that hold the dash along the bottom edge to the car. Remove the six top bolts that hold the dash on. I use an APEX tip help by small vice grips to start them moving. Then I put a socket on it and twist them loose as far as I can go, then twist it back down far enough to remove the socket. The bolts should be able to come off by hand now without much problem.

If you haven't removed your driver's seat, you might now want to, but it isn't necessary (I didn't). Stick your head up under the dash on the driver's side and disconnect the wires for the lighting potentiometer, and plugs for the wiper control and headlights. Unscrew the speedo cable from the speedometer, pop off the light for that gauge (push in and turn counterclockwise). Remove the tachometer cable, and lights for the gauge and turn signals. Move over to the multi gauge and wrench off the oil pressure line. You'll see the ammeter leads, don't worry about them yet, or the clock. Unplug the brake safety light, and anything else you think you can reach here...

Now gently pull the dash away from the car a couple of inches. Looking at the dash, rotate the right side down an move over to the passenger side. Looking down from above/behind the dash, disconnect the plugs for the fuse box. You can move the dash around some for access, you're not going to ruin anything as long as your a little careful. From this position, move on to the clock wires/light bulb and disconnect them. Next, holding a small flashlight in your left hand, reach back to the multi gauge with your right and wrench off the two leads for the multi gauge. You should have everything disconnected now. Sometimes there is a green and white wire to the fuse box that don't have a plug. If that's true for you, you'll have to cut them and simply install a plug/splice before you put it back in - no big deal.

Just pull the dash out slowly now, checking to make sure nothing gets hung up from missing any wires. The throttle cable should offer a little resistance until that clears the firewall and heater box. Also, pop the air control levers up and out of the dash before pulling it out.

Thank you for the great info J.!

bakerjf wrote: Thu Apr 22, 2021 8:28 pm For ‘68-‘70

Hope this helps.

That's a huge help.

Thank you very much!
Peter