Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hey everyone! Apologies in advance for the proposed heresy of installing a non JDM motor...

I've been toying with the idea of attempting a GM L850 swap (specifically the 2.0L LTG available in '13+ Cadillac ATS and a lot of other vehicles). They're cheap and becoming increasingly more available around me (if I keep my eyes open, there's a good chance I could pick up an entire drivetrain for ~$400-500 on a 1/2 price pick-your-part day). SR20s near me are 4-5x that (and still a lot older)

Rough external dimensions are 23.53" Long, 27.41" Wide and 27.45" Tall, dressed. IIRC, they're driver side exhaust, and rear sump to boot. ( https://paceperformance.com/files/content/ltg-dims.JPG )

I'm fairly sure that it will fit between the actual frame rails, with a reasonable notch in the front cross member (no more severe than an SR20DE swap) - **but** it looks like it will likely require a more significant notch to the internal support/body nearing the fenders. Does anyone have rough estimates of the maximum size of a notch I could create there safely? Specifically, the main box-tube running over the frame rails.

Already intending to relocate the battery to the trunk, and there are some minor-ish metal repairs that I need to make to this area anyway (assuming it was battery acid issues)

Always willing to spend the time, if not the money... and I'm aware that any solution I want will take both.

People have installed the earlier ecotec motor. The direct injection motor will have its own set of problems if you don't get EVERYTHING.
Looks like a fun project, but I suggest another route if you are trying to save money. "First" time installs tend to spiral out of control.

Yager
So a couple of things
One, my friend is in the final stage of installing the LNF version of the same engine 2.0L turbo out of a Solstice , he is no mechanic and has done a good chunk of the swap himself so it wasn’t too complex however there is one thing you need to know right of the bat is that you will need to cut the X in the frame in order to line up the engine and transmission properly (if not they’re at an angle to each other and you’ll need some Ujoints )

Two and more importantly I’ve had 3 cars now with this engine ‘13 ATS 6sp RWD, ‘15 ATS AWD, and now an XT4 , I’ve enjoyed these cars very much and they have very good power but I’ve never thought of these engine as performance engine, and they would be far down my list compared to what else is available

YMMV

JagerTex wrote: ↑Sun Feb 07, 2021 1:57 pm Hey everyone! Apologies in advance for the proposed heresy of installing a non JDM motor...

There's no need for that. You are in the Engine Swap section. Build for yourself!

JagerTex wrote: ↑Sun Feb 07, 2021 1:57 pm Does anyone have rough estimates of the maximum size of a notch I could create there safely? Specifically, the main box-tube running over the frame rails.

While I defer to someone with actual fabrication skills, it sounds like your engine clearance issue is width. Are there accessories that can be re-located to gain space? Can you mount it higher to clear the inner fender rail?

If those are not options, how wide of a cut might be limited by your A-Arm/shock. I would also think that anything you cut here can be reinforced from the wheel side, so it's not visible in the engine bay.

I'm stealing one of Michael's SR20DET install pics to help illustrate, more can be seen here:
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=7326

I was looking at the LCV. 200+hp, extremely stout bottom end, but very tall at 27.8" from pan to filler cap. With my car sitting on the ground and hood closed, I put a tape measure from the floor to the hood and only got about 30" at the front and 32" at the rear.

But, where there is a will, there is a way...

You can also check the engine swap dimensions thread for some more research.

On mr SR swap, I followed Mikes lead but fabricated the inner fender with a 1/2 radius inset that would keep the cold side to the intercooler inside the engine bay. It was a lot of work but goes to show that the inner fender can be modified as long as you pay attention to tire clearances.

It has worked out well.

eye wrote: ↑Mon May 24, 2021 4:43 pm On mr SR swap, I followed Mikes lead but fabricated the inner fender with a 1/2 radius inset that would keep the cold side to the intercooler inside the engine bay. It was a lot of work but goes to show that the inner fender can be modified as long as you pay attention to tire clearances.

It has worked out well.

Gorgeous!!!!