Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I followed the engine pull checklist, took off a few more things (passenger side alt, starter, fan) for better visibility and access.

Headers preventing engine from coming forward, they are hitting engine mount base, and throttle crossbar preventing it from coming up anymore.
Any last tricks before I start removing header and maybe intake as well?
Arrggh!

I was able to get my U20 out with the header/exhaust manifold still on. There was point where the downpipe would come in contact with chassis piece that is right near the steering box, but I would just push the engine forward (toward the back of the car) and then used the lift to raise the engine a bit more. Also, trans was basically pointing toward the ground and thus the throttle cross-bar was not interfering at all.

A load leveler on you lift really helps. I have removed U20s many times without having to to take anything off of the engine, except for the air box. The leveler allows you to tilt the engine to clear all things. It's close and you have to push the engine side to side and back and forth a bit as yusef said. First, disconnect all things (exhaust, cables, shifter, etc, etc.) Assuming you are using a cherry picker lift, support/lift the engine almost level and remove motor mounts from frame. Then, pull engine forward a bit to get tail of tranny free/forward of x member. Then use the leveler to tilt engine so the transmission is low and the fan is high while lifting it up with the lift. This is when you may have to push the engine around to clear things. You have to lift it high where almost the whole engine is out of the car vertically. As you pull the engine forward (out), you have to lift the transmission by the tail by hand to clear the front end (take radiator and supports out). It's not heavy. Once out, level it off. It's easier with two people but I have done it by myself a few times (it's a workout - lots of ups and downs)

you can get a leveler at Harbor Freight or Amazon https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-cap ... 60659.html

Also, I raised the rear of the car and the front a bit so the transmission would have more room to dangle once it's passed the structural x-member.

Your listing says you are in socal, I am as well...happy to help if you need it.

Best,
Joseph

Thanks. I have all 4 wheels on double-stacked 2x6’s, and have the HF hoist and leveler.
Have not yet got the tail shaft to drop down enough, will be doing that next.
Thanks for all the helpful suggestions, will keep you appraised of developments.

The load leveler should be a requirement. Harbor Freight has two - get the more expensive one. Well worth the $10 extra.

I had a floor jack on the front cross member but only lifted it enough to clear the height of the cherry picker legs. Keep your chains relatively short like 6 - 8 inches between the cam cover and leveler. let the leveler do the adjustments, not the chains

You gain a little room for the bellhousing if you remove the throttle cross shaft. Mine has a "little" bend in it as I never pull the carbs or exhaust.
It comes out easier than it goes back in if you have headers. Mine headers have a small "clearance" dimple. LOL

Yep, thanks Phil, throttle cross shaft is one of the major constrictions, preventing any more UP.
(And it has 4 Philips/JIS screws with horrendous access when engine is in.)
I’ll give it a bit of “persuasion”, as you are right, it will function fine if arched in the center.
Cannot tilt yet, because still have 5-6” of trans tail sitting on the X.

On pass side, the flange between firewall and tunnel prevents moving her towards that side too, catching bell housing before it starts to taper back. Once out, that is going to be nicely rolled with a dead blow hammer.

Thanks for all the helpful info. Patience reigns.

Just checking but did you remove the tranny mount bracket from the frame? You need to and remove the rubber mount from the transmission

Its a piece of cake to pull the engine with the intake and exhaust still on. I remove the carbs because the rear carb will contact the brake master, but aside from that, it comes right out. I have to lift the front of the car a little bit to get the engine hoist under the lower control arms, but aside from that, no big deal. I don't even have a load leveler. I use the stock lifting hooks, and a chain. Lift, pull the hoist away from the car a little, lift, pull back, repeat until the oil pan has cleared the cross member, and the bell housing has cleared the throttle pice. Once clear, lift until the oil pan clears the radiator support, the tail shaft floats freely. Have another person grab the tail shaft and lift it to clear the radiator support, rotate the assembly out of the way of the car, set it gently down so the transmission, clutch and flywheel can be removed, lift and mount to engine stand.

I can do this with 1 5/8 headers with no issues. Its a close fit, but it does clear.

Will

Not sure what brand/model of headers I have (they were on their when I got it), but I am a full tube diameter if not 1.5 away from them clearing the engine mount plate. I have pics but have to send them to home computer to “shrink” the size before posting.
I had removed trans cross member, hadn’t taken mount off trans, but will do that, but still have 6” of tail housing to clear before getting any appreciable droop angle.
I removed drive shaft but have left fwd slip yoke and u-joint on, but those just flop out of the way, don’t really help that much, right?
I hope the throttle shaft nuts are captive fasteners, am skeptical whether I can get hands & driver in crossways to get good purchase on them. (Socket head cal screws going back in there too!)

Pull the yoke, make the tranny as short as possible. I removed the drive shaft y disconnecting from rear differential flange and pull the shaft and yoke as a unit

Line and arrow drawn on the offending tube with red sharpie.
Inner tube about 1 diameter or slightly less from clearing. I understand why folks might use nylon straps around engine, because that facilitates twisting the whole unit within the tunnel. With chains supporting from head (pass side goes to alt support), twisting is not possible, because it is swinging from the chain mounts (they are much higher than engine Cg, while straps go under Cg)
Ahh well, patience and wrestling continue.

Looks like you need to get engine higher. Back it off toward rear and lift it until bottom of header clears mount