eye wrote: ↑Tue Dec 22, 2020 7:53 pm
That is what hot rodding is all about. IMO. I have never left anything stock. I love original and restored to new cars and bikes, but I sure love cutting them up too. Mine was in crappy enough shape to easily go to the crusher but it still on even if it is highly modified.
There is very little room to move anything in the firewall and front floors though. It's a pretty tight fit for anything but feet.
Good luck with it.
I'm thinking a notch by the VIN tag similar to the one for the brake master might be all I need at the firewall, and possibly a notch by the upper control arm. It gets tight there with the turbo, mainly the wastegate.
With SR20DETs almost dried up something needs to take over it's role.
Here's a great picture that shows the HPFP sticking out by it's lonesome.
Alvin wrote: ↑Wed Dec 23, 2020 12:26 am
Can you relocate the HPFP to avoid firewall clearance issues? It's cam driven, so no. Maybe it can be clocked somehow.
For height, dry-sump? The Miata pan is very slim and shaves off about two inches, I don't see a dry sump gaining enough more to be worthwhile. By my estimations from trying to scale the drawing, the main engine itself would be right around 25-26" with the Miata pan, which will fit pretty well. The HPFP just adds that last 2" or so.
Width-wise, looks like you can remove the factory manifold and make one to fit/position turbo above body rail. That's probably an option. I'd really like to see it work with the stock turbo, as it means no custom tuning, but with the turbo and manifold being cast together that makes it harder to just relocate. Maybe flip it 180 degrees if not too tall?
Well isn't that slick. I actually had a full SVO swap stashed a few months ago but I sold off everything to focus on just a couple projects I love.
I'm 90% ready to pull the trigger on the Mars swap kit. I called them and asked about cruise control, which they said isn't possible, any codes left behind on the ecu once they crack it, which he said there are but not ones that trigger a CEL. I asked about future tuning possibilities, he said just treat it as a 15-17 mustang and any canned tune will work.
$5350 shipped is a lot to swallow up front but I'm paying for convenience with a turnkey kit.
damarble, I am also interested in this build and look forward to your trials and learn from them to hopefully follow your trailblaze. SR20 are so expense and difficult to find now. Cheers, and Happy Holidays/Merry Christmas.
Alabama311 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 23, 2020 4:46 pm
damarble, I am also interested in this build and look forward to your trials and learn from them to hopefully follow your trailblaze. SR20 are so expense and difficult to find now. Cheers, and Happy Holidays/Merry Christmas.
It might turn out to be an expensive mistake in the end but I think it's worth exploring. The few SRs left will only continue to go up in price while these should be on the way down.
If you are going to do a swap, I'd definitely suggest the SR - or a KA if you can't afford the SR. Those at least have some support by Nissan enthusiasts.
SR and KA aren't THAT expensive.
Any original datsun roadster engine is probably a better choice in the long run..putting a cheap engine in the car will just further de-value it.
I wonder where that car came from? WA plates and it suspiciously looks like one that was stored in Wenatchee for years and never moved (well, I recall it being moved from driveway to carport). Never saw it driven, ever, in 35 years. Curious if same car.
orangedawg wrote: ↑Tue Dec 29, 2020 10:34 am
I wonder where that car came from? WA plates and it suspiciously looks like one that was stored in Wenatchee for years and never moved (well, I recall it being moved from driveway to carport). Never saw it driven, ever, in 35 years. Curious if same car.
Interesting. It ended up in Gig Harbor where I found it. I have a title printed in 71.
