Front Brake Cylinder Write Up

[Curtis]

I was putting new seals in my second set of brakes when I noticed I had made a couple mistakes on the first set. So I spent the last couple evenings or so writing this up which might help people not do what I did. If some of you would look at it and tell me if it needs some editing I would appreciate it.

http://www.kendo-usa.org/datsun/datsunbrakecylinder.pdf

[DAC21]

Thanks Curtis, interesting that the new EBC Yellow Stuff Pads that I just bought have no markings that I can spot to indicate directional installation. Technically these pads are for Jags, so maybe that isn't an issue on those cars??

[GGB]

Hi Curtis,
That was a very informative write up. Thank you. I just finished this project myself. One thing that confused me was that the pins in the cylinder actually do have a bend to them. I wasn't sure of whether I had accidentally bent them extracting the piston, or whether they were engineered that way. Looking at your pictures I see the same bend in the pins. Does anyone happen to know the purpose of this? Thanks again.

[Curtis]

Ya well, I bent mine. They wobble but they're not supposed to be bent. On my sleeved ones he straightened a pin.

[Linda]

Nice write up, Curtis, and the pics are great showing the ballbearing for stock bleeders vs the speedbleeders.
Might note a couple of things if you want:
If no compressor,can use PB Blaster, Evapo Rust or ATF etc to help loosen the corrosion with even careful prying open of each cylinder so as to not bend the pin. (A compressor did not work initially for me but did recently because the cylinders had been sleeved years ago)
A new rubber seal kit with brake grease will be needed to seal each cylinder.
High temp or brake caliper paint should be used.
New brake lines in stainless help avoid corrosion as well.

Linda

[Curtis]

I just discovered I have an error in the tubing and cylinder sides. I'll fix it and repost.

Edit: fixed and reposted.

[Curtis]

Nice write up, Curtis, and the pics are great showing the ballbearing for stock bleeders vs the speedbleeders.
Might note a couple of things if you want:
If no compressor,can use PB Blaster, Evapo Rust or ATF etc to help loosen the corrosion with even careful prying open of each cylinder so as to not bend the pin. (A compressor did not work initially for me but did recently because the cylinders had been sleeved years ago)
A new rubber seal kit with brake grease will be needed to seal each cylinder.
High temp or brake caliper paint should be used.
New brake lines in stainless help avoid corrosion as well.

Linda

I figure people will know about the seals and paint is a personal preference. I just ordered two new kits from Nissan. Maybe I should include the part number and date it as these are still available as of. Rock auto has them cheap. Since the cylinders were used on several cars you can find them. I'll have to read the other write up and see if it mentions the blaster and what not. Thanks.

[Curtis]

More revisions.

[Linda]

I think you also might mention coating the seals as well as cylinder walls with the brake grease to make it easier to reassemble straight. Also the pin hole can have some debris/rust which was not totally cleaned out by Karp’s, so some PB Blaster, Q tip and then a dap of brake grease keeps the hole and pin in good shape. Not sure but I think there is a spring in there?
I always think of the Tech Wiki write ups as a complete info/ how to and this one will be. Nice job on an essential system.
Linda

[Linda]

delete

[JT68]

You should never use pb blaster, wd40 or any petroleum product during assembly-the seals are not compatible and will ultimately fail. Final clean with brake cleaner and use only the supplied red grease during assembly. No, the pins should not be bent.

[Curtis]

You should never use pb blaster, wd40 or any petroleum product during assembly-the seals are not compatible and will ultimately fail. Final clean with brake cleaner and use only the supplied red grease during assembly. No, the pins should not be bent.

I'm talking disassembly. People ought to know to thoroughly clean before assembly and use the grease with the seals. If they don't they probably shouldn't be working on it.

[JT68]

Agree, Linda’s post mentions PB blaster after sleeves. After sleeves, nothing but brake cleaner, brake fluid and fluid compatible grease. That is all you need.

[Jimmers74]

It's been a while since I rebuilt standard calipers, but care must be exercised when putting the pistons back in the bodies. The seal is a flat rubber washer, and if it goes in the least bit crooked, it may be cut on the edge of the caliper. And if that edge is cut, it won't hold the pressure of the brake fluid. And ditto on replacing the exterior lines. The plastic covering serves to hold moisture against the steel tube and is guaranteed to rust through. Replace those when rebuilding.

[Linda]

On my cylinders they were cleaned before being sent to Karp’s with PB etc. But after coming back there was still some gunk in there from the shop or wherever, so a blast with PB, drain, a qtip to swab it out dry and then the brake grease and assembly. Brake cleaner was used too, but I do recall some rust in that pin hole. I don’t think there was any left in there afterwards to do anything.
Karp’s will assemble these days, but when I had it done I had to do it, they would not.

Linda