Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

Hello Everyone!

I've been looking for a roadster for a few months now, and I may have found one.

I found a listing in Orleans, WI (9 hour drive, but I have family out there) for a running and driving 2000. When I reached out, it had sold...BUT there is a second car that he is willing to sell. It is complete, but has not been gone through and does not run.
I am still getting information, but I currently have pictures we can take a look at for signs of serious problems.

I'm waiting to see if the owner has a title before continuing, but I want opinions as quickly as possible.
Assuming the title is clean, I'll be asking about the status of the car when acquired to get an idea of what I'm in for.
He's asking $5,000 and I'd certainly negotiate.

Here is a link to the pictures I was sent. Let me know if it doesn't work and I'll post them another way.

Please let me know what you think!

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/0j540vqobitb ... PyKma?dl=0

To me that's a $3000 car. I am sure others would spend more for it. If you already know how to rebuild an engine or do body work then maybe a little more.
Not running? When did it last run?
How will you know if the transmission is good? Brakes, trans and U20 engine parts add up very quickly. You'd be better off with something running.
Just my 2 cents.

.Can you do paint and body work? Can you weld in new patch panels to replace all of the rusted out areas, and there are many. Can you do all the mechanical work including rebuilding the engine and possible the transmission. Are you willing to do all that AND invest 15 to 20 thousand dollars in parts and materials? If yes and you will be happy breaking even after many hundreds of hours of work and several years to get it on the road again, then go for it!
If you want to send it to a restorer along with a check for $40,000 and end up with a car worth 30 grand then go for it.

Looks like you would have to touch about everything on the car to "restore" it. If you want a patina look and leave the body alone and are OK with that, then you would still need to be a really good mechanic most likely to get it running and drive safely.

To me, the rust everywhere would be the biggest issue and probably affects the mechanicals as well. I'd probably pass on it whatever the cost was.

Thanks for the thoughts! I'm getting more information on the mechanical state of the car. It was listed for an older gentleman by his son, so getting info takes an extra step.

I can do all of the body and mechanical work, that doesn't scare me. As far as rust goes, I am concerned about it and will ask for more pictures. Being from PA, I'm used to it, but it's still a pain. I don't plan on getting it to a full concourse restoration or worrying about it as an investment. I'll likely own and work on it for the next 50 years as I have extra money and time.

I'm more concerned on if this is a good price for a roadster in this condition. I know the work involved, but I'm less familiar with the market for these cars and how much money they command in various conditions.

2,000

Good yet reasonable price $1500 What I'd pay after years of restoring experience and just bringing back to life a '66 survivor $1000. Very easy to sink a boatload of $$ into a car like this one. Just my 2cents. Pat

Be patient and spend more on a better example. Unless you truely enjoy the process of bringing a car back from the dead, I would recommend buying one that is running reliably so that you have a better idea of what is needed . That way you get to enjoy the car while you are improving it. Ive seen alot of examples of people getting frustrated with a non running project and eventually abandoning it to the dark corners of the garage.

Thanks again everyone. I think I'm going to let this one go. It's easy to get excited about a pile of rust when you're itching to get started on a build.
I'll keep my eyes peeled for a better example that needs a tune-up rather than media-blasting.

I believe that is the right call. Buy as good as you can possibly afford right now. Always ends up being the right choice.

$1200.
Just because its has the antenna. All other things will require lots of work and replacement.

Cheers
Ray B.

Yeah... find out what the condition/operation of the drive train & brakes before even considering $5000
Wisconsin not a place to search for clean classics
How do you feel about a 70 1600 ? Red one for $6800
Running

redroadster wrote: Thu Oct 01, 2020 2:08 pm Yeah... find out what the condition/operation of the drive train & brakes before even considering $5000
Wisconsin not a place to search for clean classics
How do you feel about a 70 1600 ? Red one for $6800
Running

That's a good price, but the high windshield 1600s are off my radar at the moment. I want to run the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix and they separate cars by displacement alone. I'd prefer to be at the top end of the 1.5L-2L class. I don't have anything against the 1600s, they just aren't what I'm looking for at the moment. I'd consider a low windshield for a future U20 build, but we'll see what comes on the market.
I appreciate the offer!

I was looking for a 2000 too but the ones around were too high and trash to boot..... good luck

Besides all the rust I see a 70 front side light and a 69 rear. Something has been changed.