initial start-up rebuilt r16

[dynaguy]

I'm hoping to fire up the rebuilt r16 in my '66 survivor soon. Looking for input to make this as successful as possible. My machinist provided me with a pint of break in additive to add to the oil, he pre-lubed everything. I'll have fresh coolant in the system. and new gas in the tank. Here are a few of my questions.

What grade/type of motor oil to use initially?

Best way to get gas to carbs? Prime system?

A basic check list before start-up

Any helpful suggestions will be appreciated!

TIA, Pat

[Gregs672000]

Good Morning! Well, first off, I've always over-stressed over first start up. Much more than likely, everything will go fine!

I've always run whatever weight oil I plan to use (10/40 or 20/50), and a typical dino oil as synthetic is probably to slick for initial break in. It will protect things just fine. If there's a problem a different weight etc won't save you.

It won't hurt the motor to crank it over to prime the carbs. You can do that with the plugs out, and it will bring up the oil pressure and distribute it throughout the engine. First though the engine needs to be static (not running) timed. Setting initial timing is one of the harder things to get close. Are you points or EI? Smog or non-Smog distributor? Regardless, set the engine to 16 (non smog) or 0 (smog) on the crank pointer, switch the ignition on and rotate the distributor until the points open or the rotor is pointing at #1 terminal (I believe it will spark the #1 wire with the cap on, ignition switch on and a screw driver in the wire and arching to metal like on the valve cover while you rotate the distributor. You should be able to do this points or EI). With the engine timed on the crank at your desired initial timing, when you see the spark they are now "timed" together, so lock the distributor down and you'll be very close. Final settings with a timing light.

I like to have a fire extinguisher close at hand, just in case. Expect some minor smoking as pieces get hot and burn off oil films and cures things like header coatings.

As soon as you confirm timing and adjust as needed, the next thing is breaking in the new cam. With a new cam, it's important to not let the engine idle for too long before the cam is broken in. Kinda scary to rev a new engine up to between 2500-3000 rpm for 20 minutes, but it's important to do once the engine is running and you have confirmed timing/advance is working right.

I've had some starting fluid available in the past to help determine why an engine won't fire as a fuel source... if it runs on starter fluid but not otherwise you know it's a fuel delivery issue. Be light with it, and it won't fire wet plugs very easily if flooded.

Once running, monitor as the cam breaks in, look for leaks, shut it down if needed, watch temperatures and after 20 minutes shut her off and dance around the shop! Then, check valve lash and adjust accordingly.

I'm sure it will go fine!

[theunz]

Don’t forget a quick oil and filter change after you get it running. I don’t like to go any more than 100 miles before first oil change. When I rebuilt my Porsche engine the manual I was using said first change at 20 minutes! It may look clean when you assemble it....it’s not!

[Linda]

Be sure all clamps, valve cover, oil pan, oil feed line etc are tight. My water tower leaked at startup and I had to shut down and fix.
I ran 30 min at 2K then changed the oil right away. Then new oil and filter with another change at 100 miles. Then 500 I think.
I could not see leaving any debris in there.
Be ready for the smoke as assembly lube etc. burns off.
Then follow recommendations for breaking in.
Take a video!
Linda

[dynaguy]

I have a Pertronix dizzy and fresh Z-Therapy carbs. I think it's static timed, but will use your method to verify. Thanks for the info Pat

[redroadster]

Non detergent is used to keep from suspending the fragments ,but with the rope rear main not liking different oils ,causes leaks . I'd say what oil you intend to use
5-30 10-30 I'd skip the additive because of the above.

Use carb spray w straw if needed to fire have a fire extinguisher close by
I always start with 2 spark plug wires off til it runs 30 sec
Instead of reving to 4 k
It's a good idea to check compression before to see it's where it should be too

[dynaguy]

Well, I filled with coolant last night.........The 3-way valve that screws into the intake is leaking!! I had disassembled it and cleaned it up with 0000 steel wool. Looked to be a surface to surface seal. Is there any other type of seal? Seeping out of bottom of valve. _____________ insert mechanic's words here! Pat

[dynaguy]

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!! Special thanks to my roadster buddy Bob, who came through with a non-leaking valve and help with start-up. Also Mr. Heaton wandered by just in the nick of time to bring good Karma.
Gotta few bugs to work out but happy to have it running after 45 yrs inop. Pat

[ted heaton]

Start up!!!
Running good and loud. No muffler
Pat and Bob

Ted

[notoptoy]

Ted! You need to advance to recording and posting video!

[ted heaton]

Got one!!
Too busy driving.


Ted

[Gregs672000]

Yah! See? No Problems! Congrats!

[dynaguy]

Yah! See? No Problems! Congrats!

Well, not quite no problems. Ignition circuit non-op had to hot wire. Engine sounds good, no exhaust system yet. Hopefully can get it driving before weather sets in. Pat