R16 Head Gasket Replacement - problems? Lots of pics

[Slackline]

I had the oil galley head gasket oil leak, so I pulled the head off to replace the gasket. While I am in there, I would like some opinions on how everything looks.

These are pics of the block with the head gasket still attached.

block w gasket1s.jpg

block w gasket2s.jpg

block w gasket3s.jpg

block w gasket4s.jpg

block w gasket5s.jpg

[Slackline]

This is with the head gasket removed:

block wo gasket1s.jpg

block wo gasket2s.jpg

block wo gasket3s.jpg

block wo gasket4s.jpg

block wo gasket5s.jpg

block wo gasket6 oil galleys.jpg

[Slackline]

The head:

head1s.jpg

head2s.jpg

head3s.jpg

head4s.jpg

head5s.jpg

[Slackline]

The ports on the head from front to back. (I think I am missing one...)

headport1s.jpg

headport2s.jpg

headport3s.jpg

headport4s.jpg

headport5s.jpg

headport6s.jpg

headport7s.jpg

[Slackline]

Intake and header. Also, is this header supposed to be welded up like this? Does anyone recognize it?

header weldeds.jpg

intakeexhportss.jpg

[Slackline]

Thanks for the help.

There doesn't seem to be much wear on the cylinder walls. Not scored, hardly worn. This is a 67.5 engine.

I am thinking of taking the head in and have it checked out. Some of the head bolts were way over torqued.

Also thinking of replacing bolts with ARP stud kit.

Rob

[Slackline]

Yes, the Fram oil filter is going to be replaced.

What do you clean the block and head with to remove the old gasket?

[JT68]

Looks to me like the genius who put it together had the gasket swapped end-to end. The famous PO strikes again...The metal o-ring goes to the oil galley. The large hole goes forward. Yep, that header is quite the cobble job.

We have all the parts you might need including headers,headbolts or ARP fasteners and plenty of expertise on how to do the job properly.

[JT68]

Razor blade, lacquer thinner and scotchbrite to clean up. No sandpaper. Plug that oil galley while you clean.

You should have a machinist make sure the head is flat before you put it back on since whomever did it before was clueless. If the head isn't perfectly flat, you are wasting your time and a head gasket set.

[Slackline]

Ok, thanks.
I do have the oil galley plugged.

[JT68]

It helps to use a shop vac right next to where you are working with the razor blade, suck everything up as you go real time. Surfaces must be clean,clean,clean- bare clean,flat metal. No traces of old gasket or contaminants.

The other mistake super common with these heads is to over tighten the rocker studs-if you do that, you will be in a world of hurt.

22-25 ft-lbs with DRY threads! If you do 30+ pounds with oil on the threads, you will pull the studs out of the head. I can't even count how many heads we have repaired for this mistake. Try to avoid that.

You might verify your studs will take 25lbs BEFORE you install the head, base on the work quality from your photos, the PO may have dorked that up too....If you wait and find this out AFTER install, you will need 2 headgasket kits.

Best of luck!

[JT68]

Also, if you take your head to a shop, don't let them surface it unless it is actually, definitely warped. Most machine shops will offer to " clean it up" . Bad idea.

If those are domed pistons, it doesn't take all that much head surfacing before the pistons will contact the head. Another novice mistake to avoid- yep I did it too when I was 16- long time ago lol.

[Slackline]

Thanks.

I am going to do some clean up this morning. We will see how far I get.

The rocker studs were not "tight" at all. I was able to remove 2 of them by turning the socket like a screwdriver. The rest were a little tighter but not much.

I have a new metal level that I can use for a straight edge. I also have a couple of tees like for woodworking. If I find a consensus, I'll measure the gap and get back to you.

[Slackline]

My manifold hardware was a bit of a grab bag.

Different sized nuts, different washer arrangement, etc. Is there a resource that has the correct setup?

[JT68]

Thanks.

I am going to do some clean up this morning. We will see how far I get.

The rocker studs were not "tight" at all. I was able to remove 2 of them by turning the socket like a screwdriver. The rest were a little tighter but not much.

I have a new metal level that I can use for a straight edge. I also have a couple of tees like for woodworking. If I find a consensus, I'll measure the gap and get back to you.

Sounds fishy on the studs. Definitely check those out before you get too far. Major "gotcha" if you put the head back on and they are not secure(basically start over).


No go on the woodworking tools... must use a machinist's rule (or a granite surface plate) squares&levels are just not straight enough. Head needs to be flat to .0015" . Any machine shop can check it.