Start up after 20 years.

[jhdj250]

I have recently been gifted with a Datsun SPL-311 that an uncle has kept in his garage for 20 years. He kept saying he would get it back on the road but now that he is approaching 70 he has given it to me. The car is almost all original. The chrome has some corrosion on in but for the most part is sound. All lights and light covers are intact and original. The car has the original (if rebuilt) engine and transmission in it. The soft top has been replaced. Car is white with a red interior. Body paint looks good from 10 ft away but there is some rusting in there.

The car is currently in South Carolina and I live in Tennessee. I went down over Thanksgiving and worked on it some. I did the following.

1 Replaced the gasket under the windshield. (this was leaking when parked)

2 Reassembled the dash and guages. (He had taken this apart to get to the windshield bolts)

3 Put on a new battery. (Headlights, foglights, and turn signals all worked!!!!)

4 Changed Oil and filter.

5 Changed Sparkplugs (wires looked brand new)

6 Drained Coolant and replaced. (Radiator had coolant in it when opened)

7 Drained fuel and replaced. (Gas was clear and free flowing, no chunks)

8 Replaced fuel hoses

9 Turned car over and it would idle. Any increase in the throttle would cut the engine off.

Things I know I need to do.

1) Brakes - replace hoses and bleed. (Rubber hoses are dry rotted)

2) Front end replace dust boots and grease. Get aligned. (dust boots are dry rotted)

3) Carbs - clean and adjust

4) Replace radiator hoses. (probably dry rotted)

5) New tires ( old ones dry rotted)

Any other suggestions????

Thanks a lot

JHDJ

[67 1/2 1600]

It say the carbs are probably too lean im suprised it doesnt backfire/sputter. Also check your timing etc. to make sure you are on track. Adjusting the valves as well. Its always good to replace torn/old stuff with new .

[Import_sounds-of-mid-GA]

GOOD JOB!!!! Another roadster brought back!! Thank you!! Now, my car sat in a field for 17(?) years, I did what you did, but I had to buy front brake calipers and fuel pump.
If i were you I would...
1. Check the brake master cylinder seals
2. Check the clutch master cylinder seals(i forget the name so that might not be the proper name)
3. Make sure the fuel pump seals are all good
4. Might need to rebuild the calipers, master cylinder, fuel pump, and maybe get new plug wires, cap, points, and rotor button

All this is just my opinion, so check with other people!!

[jhdj250]

GOOD JOB!!!! Another roadster brought back!! Thank you!! Now, my car sat in a field for 17(?) years, I did what you did, but I had to buy front brake calipers and fuel pump.
If i were you I would...
1. Check the brake master cylinder seals
2. Check the clutch master cylinder seals(i forget the name so that might not be the proper name)
3. Make sure the fuel pump seals are all good
4. Might need to rebuild the calipers, master cylinder, fuel pump, and maybe get new plug wires, cap, points, and rotor button

All this is just my opinion, so check with other people!!

Well, I'm trying to decide what to buy and take with me when I go back to work on it over Christmas / New Years.

I have taken the top off the Distributor and everything is spotless. Looks like it was replaced in the engine rebuild right before it parked. Planning on taking brake/clutch master cylinder seals sets.

Thanks for the info.

JHDJ

[Import_sounds-of-mid-GA]

"I have taken the top off the Distributor and everything is spotless."

hey, then you are at least $30 ahead of me!![/quote]

[spl310]

How long did it idle before you tried to rev it? Roadsters - like a lot of older cars - are cold natured. If they don't get warmed up, they don't like to rev.

Check to make sure that the pistons inside the carbs go up and down freely. If one is stuck with varnish, it will NEVER run right...

[jhdj250]

How long did it idle before you tried to rev it? Roadsters - like a lot of older cars - are cold natured. If they don't get warmed up, they don't like to rev.

Check to make sure that the pistons inside the carbs go up and down freely. If one is stuck with varnish, it will NEVER run right...

Before I tried to start it I checked each piston. They seemed to turn freely.

JHDJ

[spl310]

How long did it idle? Was it up to temp? If the vacuum advance is disconnected, it could do that too.

[Import_sounds-of-mid-GA]

i ran mine for about 10 minutes straight the first time i got it cranked..... that was with a cracked heater core hose and 17(?) y/o oil.... that timing chain was just a rattlin!
(heater core hose- Im not sure if thats the proper name.... it kinda left me)

[jhdj250]

How long did it idle? Was it up to temp? If the vacuum advance is disconnected, it could do that too.

Only for about 5 minutes. It was not up to temp. Had to leave to come back home. Something about a wife and a job.

[spl310]

OK, it sounds like it just wasn't warmed up. I would let it idle until the water is up to temp before making judgements on what may be wrong.

[jhdj250]

Sid,

Unfortunately I won't be near the car again until Christmas Eve.

I will let it warm up before I give it any gas.

JHDJ

[dbrick]

Mine was sitting a while, not sure but at least a few years. Here's a few off the top of my head,
I would do the heater hoses especially the ones inside the car. NAPA makes a hose called wireflex, has a stiff spiral of wire inside the hose, can bend it any direction without kinking. Also would get a flashlight and look down into the fuel tank filler to check for rust, can't see much, but can see if real bad. Consider adding a big clear plastic fuel filter before the pump to catch any rust etc that breaks loose.

Make sure there is an anti drain back tube on the oil filter mount.

Evict all mice

I rebuilt my master cylinder, If i did it again I would replace it. Same for calipers. Get braided steel brake lines. If there is a rubber oil and clutch hose, check and change before long trip if dry.
Make sure there are overflow hoses on the carbs to get gas clear of exhaust if floats stick, and check the hoses from fuel bowl to the carb nozzle for cracks or dryrot. I made mine from straight hose, would reccomend you get the right ones, they fit and work better. Put a fire extinguisher in the car and one next to the car when you work on it. It would suck to lose that car to a cracked fuel hose or something.

check the temp gauge, make sure it works.

[jhdj250]

...... Consider adding a big clear plastic fuel filter before the pump to catch any rust etc that breaks loose.

Make sure there is an anti drain back tube on the oil filter mount.

Evict all mice


Put a fire extinguisher in the car and one next to the car when you work on it. It would suck to lose that car to a cracked fuel hose or something.

check the temp gauge, make sure it works.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will be using some of them. Esp. the fire extinguisher... haven't had a vehicle with a real carb since my '81 Pick up.

[Import_sounds-of-mid-GA]

I should check into the fire extinguisher! When mine is running bad it blows flames out of the carbs.... and the gaskets on the bowls arent alll that and no telling what else will catch fire!