Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I’m a brand new owner of a 1967 1600 Short Windshield Raodster, For us old-timmers I named it Eagle 1 because it arrived at my house in 2021 on the anniversary day Eagle 1 landed on the moon in 1969. Cars in awesome shape but after 200 miles of my ownership the head gasket went Prev owner said it was rebuilt and had 2000 miles on it.

Looking for some guidance:
I fear if I replace the head gasket who knows what else will fail soon?!!!

So I was thinking what the heck, may as well replace the whole engine and upgrade to an SR(L)311 !!!

It already has a 5 Speed Tran from a 240z

Problem 1 I have no idea where to bring it for the work, I live in Bethlehem CT

Problem 2 if I decide to upgrade will it be a bucket of problems and kill my wallet?

Problem 3 Where would I find a reliable source for the 2L?

I’m new to this but already sunk 24k on purchase of car, I’m ALL IN gonna keep the car for sure

Your thoughts: simple head gasket or go for a 2L and drive happily ever after !!!! And any leads on where to have it worked much appreciated

A 2 L if it blows is a real wallet buster. Just check the cost of the rebuild parts from the vendors. That said it is an upgrade.
But your 1600 motor might not be so bad. Get it checked by an honest knowledgeable mechanic you are sure of.
Linda

A U20 upgrade is probably expensive. I'd check the head when you remove it. Replace the gasket and check here for tips on what to watch for. I only know U20 so I cannot chime in.
Maybe get the better head bolts if you don't have them already.
DatsunParts or other vendor

What led to the head gasket being blown?
Did the engine overheat?
Did you find it leaking coolant?
Did the car lose power while you were driving it ?
Is it an aluminium head?
I would try to repair the engine before considering replacing it with a 2L.
Parts for the 1600 head are not too expensive. I would remove the head and give it an inspection and see where the gasket was blown.
I recently had a head decked and rebuilt for my 1600 at a cost of $500.00. I had them seat the valves in the head and then replace the oil seals.
Purchased new ARP head studs from https://www.datsunrestorationproducts.com/ and installed the head. It's been fine since.
Just my .02
Joe B in Syracuse

I would determine what caused the blown head gasket and fix it. Then replace it with an new gasket and the ARP head studs as suggested by other members. I have both here: sincitydatsuns.com

If you put in our zip code, 91324, in the ARP web-site you will see that we are listed as an authorized WD dealer of their products hence forth some really nice pricing. We have the head bolt kit and head stud kit along with the stock head gaskets and thicker head gasket. Associated head sets and other parts in the gasket section below. Prices listed in red have deeper discount if you are a rewards customer.

www.datsunparts.com/2871

www.datsunparts.com/2285

www.datsunparts.com/2276 Also 2276SP Exclusive gasket with special sealing compound around the water and oil jackets. Picture coming soon

www.datsunparts.com/2270

www.datsunparts.com/Gasket-Engine

Dean

Here's a simple check. Remove the valve cover and look at the head bolts. If one has a circular mark, it should be on the back side by the number 4 exhaust port with an engine lifting hook under it. If it is anywhere else, that's likely your culprit.

Hi Eagle1, yes, we sell ARP fasteners and have actually used them on engines since just after ARP was founded decades ago. Our first ARP project was a "no-expense spared" 3-main SCCA engine. Carrillo rods and Cosworth pistons on an engine dyno, not an amateur effort. A 148hp 1.6-not bad for the '90's.

No one has more experience actually USING ARP fasteners in a roadster engine than https://www.datsunrestorationproducts.com/. Check it out.

Truth be told, ARP's are nice, but if you know what you are doing, Nissan factory fasteners are generally fine and high quality. It has more to do with technique than the brand of fastener.

But we'll stick with your original question, and can provide much more expertise if you would like to discuss it real-time.

The difference between a stock R16 and a U20 is noticeable. 35-50HP at least, and a noticeable increase in torque, so if you buy a solid, healthy U20, you will never look back.

If you buy a tired/patched together U20, you probably will not have a great outcome (worn or failed chains, cam/rocker issues, cracked cast pistons). Yes, the cast roadster pistons ALWAYS crack eventually so keep that in mind if considering a used, not rebuilt U.

You can do a stroker too, but to actually make U20 power is quite expensive. Some folks like this approach because of the simpler design of the R/H engine. But strokers are not cheap either. A lowest cost stroker won't match U20 performance and a high performance stroker will cost about as much as a decent U20 build.

So pick your poison, R16, stroker or U20.

You might reach out to mackn367 (nick), augsburger (Glen), pjackb, cktrap here on the forum about who to listen to and their very similar experiences to yours. Nick and Glen went with an improved R after stock failures, Pjack has both R&U20 and ck is a U20 guy and makes legendary BBQ. Ck (Keith) is a good reference since he knows Glen's engine as well

A properly prepared R16, a hot stroker and certainly a warmed over U are all a lot of fun. A stock R is well, kind of a snoozer by comparison.

Most importantly - and with autoparts in general, you get what you pay for. Going to the cheapest source is rarely a good plan- and will bite you in the long run.

Photo attached for your enjoyment, yeah that's a stock design cast piston skirt failure waiting to occur.