Brake Booster problems?

[Mr Camouflage]

What are the symtoms of a faulty break booster?

My Silvia doesnt seem to stop too well, and I was wondering if there were any simple tests I could do. I seem to remember something about the rpm of the engine dropping if the booster is leaking when the brakes are applied.

Has a firm brake pedal, just requires alot of force the make the car stop quickly. It has a remote booster.

[Import_sounds-of-mid-GA]

old skool Silvias??? and Skylines?? Can you get some pics?? PLEASE! Faulty brake booster:im not completely sure but i think it is when the pedal is really soft and you cant get all the air out.... but I would wait for a btter reply from an older person!

[glennhuff]

Is it a vacuum booster?

[dbrick]

OLDER!!! I resemble that remark!

Can you get a picture of the booster or a diagram? Us OLD guys need pictures and large print helps too

[Mr Camouflage]

Yep Vacuum brake booster that is.

No air in the brake lines. I fitted some calipers off a roadster (exactly the same as the Silvia), as the silvia ones piston bores were corroded beyond repair. Also fitted new seals in the back drum pistions, as one was leaking.

Pedal is firm, not spongy. I was thinking it might be a vacuum booster problem, or maybe the brakes just arent that great on such an old car.

But I want to find out one way or the other.


"OLDER!!! I resemble that remark! " Do you mean resent? or are you ageing that you are old

Large print is available from the view>text size>largest menu in IE.

Pics:

Booster is infront of the battery. Actually looking at the picture, it doesn't help that the clip is not actually where it should be on the pipe at the manifold side.


other pics:
Silvia:
http://www.wazcars.com/members/csp311/
'77 240K
http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/show ... hp?t=19122
240Z project
www.datsun240z.tk
(hasnt been updated in a while, as i havent done anything to the z in a while).
Not so old but still cool '88 Skyline GTS-X coupe:
http://photobucket.com/albums/a64/mr_camouflage/

[datsun65]

On my old CSP311 it has standard roadster discs upfront, and drums in the rear.



With the standard set-up (without the booster) everything worked quite well. Seemed to be a good set-up for the car. Maybe getting rid of the brake booster may help simplify the equation?

[dbrick]

OK, first things first, all that brake stuff is on the wrong side of the car.
You're gonna need a torch, air chisel, and some 30-weight ball bearings. I put a mirror by the computer screen and it all makes sense now, except I'm typing backwards.
This is a pretty good description, except for the fact yours is remote.http://auto.howstuffworks.com/power-brake1.htm
It looks like the master cyl actuates the booster, which is basically another master cylinder. If you remove the booster cylinder from the booster, check for fluid between the two cylinders. Otherwise, if the pedal feels good, try it with the vacuum removed, either the car off, or running with the line removed and plugged. If it's the same with and without vacuum, then booster is suspect.

You can test the booster and the check valve (round white thing where hose goes into booster)on the vacuum hose by running the car with everything hooked up normally and then shut it off. go back 5 min later and remove the vac. line from the booster, there should still be vacuum in the booster. check valve should let air flow towards engine, not towards booster.

There should also be a hole or vent on the side oppisite the cylinder (front on this car) to let air in. If that is clogged, the booster won't boost effectivly. If the diaphram in the booster is torn, you might hear engine vacuum at the vent. It should suck in a little air at the vent when pedal is pushed.http://auto.howstuffworks.com/power-brake1.htm

[Import_sounds-of-mid-GA]

I WANT YOUR SILVIA!! THOSE ARE SO AWESOME!!!!