Recommended Tip on Opening ‘67.5 Dash to Access Wiring Connections

[SP3]

Seeking advice on best way to possible tilt back or completely open dash face to inspect wiring/connections. Trying to avoid creating larger problem in getting dash back together once done or removing windshield if possible.

With taking seats out and removing steering wheel, still can’t see or get hand in some places to check connections on inop gauges, dash lights etc.

Thanks

[Linda]

These are tips for a 68, 67.5 may be similar:
Lower steering wheel a bit by loosening bolts at base, and the bracket up closer to the wheel
Removing glove box allowed access to the right side connectors, however a fragile Box will disintegrate, as mine did.
Remove center console.
The bolts on top of the dash were rusted making dash removal risky, so I opted not to remove dash, however that is the recommended way to access dash wiring.
Linda

[Curtis]

Not recommended method: remove windshield, remove dash pad, unbolt dash, tilt out. Recommended method: OR remove seat if need be be, crawl under and look. And if you remove center console it is easy to look but a bit of a pain too.

[SP3]

Thanks for replies.

Linda '67 is a flat dash car.

Curtis I am hunting for burnt wires, suspect connections and reversing turn signal indicator directional bulbs being installed backwards, etc. Things I could not see when looking up with dash intact.

Not being there before, I thought with steering wheel removed and maybe column mount loosened or removed, the dash face could be unbolted from behind and then allowed to be tilted out, with the top padded dash portion still in place.

Sounds like from your reply no or not any middle ground alternative.

[Linda]

Linda '67 is a flat dash car.

I know, I used to have one!
However the dash never came out. No bolts on top? No idea how easy it is to remove. But if it is problematic then you could compound your problem.
Linda

[Curtis]

So the problem with removing a flat dash is all the damn bolts and screws. The screws that hold the dash pad on at the top of the dash also hold the dash on. There is also a bolt under the dash pad in the center by the mirror. To get the dash pad off you have to try and get the screws by the windshield out. Almost impossible with the windshield on. The windshield has two bolts on each side and nuts under the dash that hold the bottom piece on. No small task. Also the steering wheel and the bracket that holds the column.

I would pull the center console first since you have to take it out anyway to remove the dash. I suppose it is possible to leave the center in but I wouldn't even attempt it. With the center out you can see pretty well under there. All in all it is a big PITA.

[eye]

Yep. There is no easy way.
Why I made my own so I could get access to all the wiring and fuse panels while sitting in the seat drinking a cold one. I feel your pain.

[dynaguy]

Step #1:
Learn the art of human origami, practice yoga
Step #1a:
Make appointment with your massage therapist for tomorrow
Step #2:
Decide that's it's too much of a hassle to remove seats, center console and steering wheel
Step #3:
Gather up every tool you think you will need (except for the one you will actually need) and place on floorboard under dash
Step #4:
Strap on a headlamp (most likely with batteries that will die soon)
Step #5:
Grab cell phone and keep within arms reach for final step
Step #6:
Depending on your age group, do at least 15 minutes of stretching exercises
Step #7:
Using skills learned in Step #1, position yourself "comfortably" under the dash
Step #8:
Turn on headlamp and very quickly, before batteries crap out on you, determine which tool/tools you forgot in Step #3
Step #9:
Make numerous failed attempts to unfold your body and exit the Roadster to retrieve said tool in Step #8
Step #10:
Express yourself with every "mechanics" words you know
Step #11:
Find cell phone and call significant other, friend or 911 to come and help drag your stuck a$$ out of the car

Works for me every time!!

Steve. feel free to post this procedure in Tech WIKI

Pat BTDT

[spl310]

A serious tip here. If you are going to work under the dash and don't want to pull the seat, move the seat to it's rearmost position. Place a milk crate or other suitable seat that is about the same height as the door sill outside of the car. Lay padding across. It will still suck, but if my 54 year old fat body can get in there to replace gauges until 4am, surely you younger, more fit guys can do it as well.

[Curtis]

A serious tip here. If you are going to work under the dash and don't want to pull the seat, move the seat to it's rearmost position. Place a milk crate or other suitable seat that is about the same height as the door sill outside of the car. Lay padding across. It will still suck, but if my 54 year old fat body can get in there to replace gauges until 4am, surely you younger, more fit guys can do it as well.

Milk crate and exercise pad, great idea. Since my dashes are already out my time under the dash will be minimized. I also made a two piece dash harness that goes on before the dash is installed.

[SP3]

Thanks all,

Will consider adding the milk crate to mix. I have no problem removing seat, already had it out once with steering wheel removed to gain access and still could not see everything to confirm suspect wires, grounds, tight connections etc.

Will remove console and re-attempt. Comfort is not the concern for me, it is getting a good view "behind the curtain". Sounds like no Silver bullet so will try and grind out another attempt.

Curtis, what started some of this was I had no background lighting on the tach. I assumed bulbs were burned out. Replaced and they illuminated for about 10 minutes and then flickered and went out. This also now tool out my turn signals - both the indicator dash light for left or right and the actual signal lights front and rear. I assumed the tach dash light grounded against dash and felt the pin on side of bulb lock in. Maybe it worked loose. Next downstream is now blowing fuse that controls headlight.

In retrospect, a great idea on the flat dash would have been to secure to body frame by external countersunk screws at several points on the face - that being factory tabs were added to frame to accept the screw. Easy removal to replace gauges or any other business back there.

[Mackn367]

Step #1:
Learn the art of human origami, practice yoga
Step #2:
Decide that's it's too much of a hassle to remove seats, center console and steering wheel
Step #3:
Gather up every tool you think you will need (except for the one you will actually need) and place on floorboard under dash
Step #4:
Strap on a headlamp (most likely with batteries that will die soon)
Step #5:
Grab cell phone and keep within arms reach for final step
Step #6:
Depending on your age group, do at least 15 minutes of stretching exercises
Step #7:
Using skills learned in Step #1, position yourself "comfortably" under the dash
Step #8:
Turn on headlamp and very quickly, before batteries crap out on you, determine which tool/tools you forgot in Step #3
Step #9:
Make numerous attempts to unfold your body and exit the Roadster to retrieve said tool in Step #8
Step #10:
Express yourself with every "mechanics" words you know
Step #11:
Find cell phone and call significant other, friend or 911 to come and help drag your stuck a$$ out of the car

Works for me every time!!

Steve. feel free to post this procedure in Tech WIKI

Pat BTDT

Hahahaha I loved this post - I was thinking - wait wait wait is someone spying on me? How do they know my routine!? haha!

I always want someone to take a picture of me while I'm working under the dash.

[Curtis]

This might help. I'm busy finishing up a 69 rear harness.

http://kendo-usa.org/datsun/datsun_dash ... p_67_5.pdf

This is where I have my drawings on the web.

http://kendo-usa.org/datsun/

[spl310]

Depending on your suspension/wheel/tire combo, a paint bucket may be better.

[SP3]

Curtis,

FYI sent you a PM regarding harnesses.