Datsun Roadster Forum-311s.org

I did a little searching, probably should have done more. But it's been a long day and I'm frustrated and want to move on to something else.

As I was putting on one of the wheels I purchased from eBay it seemed to be rubbing, and so I was inspecting the area. I realized the was some black goop that got on the back of the wheel (and incidentally on a now formerly good shirt). At first I just thought it was black grease. But it sticks to skin (and clothing) more like thick paint, and isn't quite the consistency of grease. I'm not positive how to describe the feel.

It looks to me like what I thought was a black rubber boot on the ball joints and tie rods, and maybe some other suspension bits...is not actually a rubber boot...or has completely changed its composition? The upper front passenger ball joint grease "boot" is completely opened. The others are VERY pliable (touching them gently leaves an indentation, and they seem ready to pop right open). Even the open "boot", though it looks like a broken rubber boot, is just goop if you touch it (kind of like thick grease or maybe frosting...)

I guess the question is...is this fixable, or do the parts need replaced? Are they supposed to have been rubber? Were these ones just really crummy quality? I don't think the car was ever even driven since the PO had replaced much of the suspension bits, including I believe, the ball joints.

As my usual disclaimer, I am of course used to more modern cars (mid-80's up) and I know older cars require different methods of greasing. So I guess I'm hoping this is something somewhat normal that is just "weird" to me....

What you have there is what we in Oz call "stuffed" ball joint boots .
They have turned to mush and definitely need replacement.
I would advise dissembling all the relevant rods from each other and reconditioning it all on the bench.
Re-greasing will be far easier for you as well with them in a vice, not on the car.
The only adjustment available on the OEM steering linkage is the threaded cross rod between the steering box and the steering idler.
If you don't disturb that setting the steering geometry will be the same once everything is re-assembled.
Replacements can be sourced from the Vendors listed on the site.
For example from Rallye Enterprises web site: -
http://www.datsunroadster.com/PIC_PAGES ... _seals.htm

For any given part always check the Tech Wiki and the Parts-> Parts Interchange page. There will you will find the Energy Suspension boots you might want to replace what you have.
Getting the ball joints etc apart is not too hard. I suggest you get the 90 day loaner tools for the job from Autozone. Then support the car and springs and proceed. More detail in archives so that is your targeted Search.
Everything should be torqued to spec too so check those values. These are pricey parts so grease is important. Even if you can’t do the job now, go thru and grease everything, get new zerks if necessary, that will help preserve what you have.
Wear an OLD shirt, and pants...

Linda

The white lithium greases are easier on not rotting the boot away

Yes but the lithium greases are not extreme pressure and as heat tolerant, right?
I used Mobile 1, and now the Valvoline Full synthetic which is very slippery with a good heat rating for the wheel bearings.
Not as worried about the boots as the parts...
Linda

Been there, done that. I do remember that coagulated grease/rubber concoction was one of the most difficult substances to get off my skin that I have ever experienced...



Replace the boots and re-grease and you will be fine...

Michael

Yes, the straight out of the new box ball joint with a rotted boot. Looked at mine and they were fine, went to use some months or more later and they were rotten. Lovely Nissan product.

We need to remember that even NOS parts are 50 years old now, and old rubber or plastic deteriorates wether on the car or in the box.

Linda wrote: Wed Jul 29, 2020 10:37 pm Yes but the lithium greases are not extreme pressure and as heat tolerant, right?
I used Mobile 1, and now the Valvoline Full synthetic which is very slippery with a good heat rating for the wheel bearings.
Not as worried about the boots as the parts...
Linda

Yes its not as good a choice for ujoints it cakes more than moly or other grease but is more liquid and then gets into every spot in the bushing , those upper. A arm caps were a problem with that . I think our keeping the 25 gal barrel up by the air compressor s was a bad idea .But works fine on ball joints we used it in the power lube gun
Lithium is a slick lubricant in addition to the liquid grease

At the training center in Dallas they told there... all shops were to go to lithium grease as in summer globs of grease were falling offcars & trucks on to the highway and motorcycles running in it causing crashes

Thanks for bringing this thread back to life. Just ordered new Energy Suspension boots that I didn’t know could be done. Much easier on the wallet than having to replace everything.

Thanks everyone for the many replies!

Very happy to see that the boots can be replaced on their own without doing the whole part (i'm used to parts where they are basically integrated), while I can't say that I'm happy that I'll need to do the work to replace them, I'm relieved to not have to buy whole replacement ball joints, etc!

I'll look through the info more in-depth later...hopefully there are some good options that hold up better than whatever brand was on there!

And Linda - side note on the shirt...I never would have gone into the garage expecting to do work with a good shirt on. I had just gotten home from work, the wheels were sitting there outside the garage, and I thought "this will only take a second, the car is already jacked up and these wheels are spotless...why bother changing..."

And Linda - side note on the shirt...I never would have gone into the garage expecting to do work with a good shirt on. I had just gotten home from work, the wheels were sitting there outside the garage, and I thought "this will only take a second, the car is already jacked up and these wheels are spotless...why bother changing..."

Hope your wife buys that story.....

Linda

Linda wrote: Thu Jul 30, 2020 8:31 pm Hope your wife buys that story.....
Linda

Fair enough! I don't learn my lesson too quick! Last night I went back out to open the 2nd package of wheels since they arrived...did I change? Nope. Did I wind up half under the car trying to get a better look at wheel clearance? Yep.

Fortunately I was wearing a black t-shirt...and I was more careful about the black goop...but, that doesn't change the fact that I was wearing good pants and didn't bother changing to old clothes...a whopping 24 hours after ruining a shirt. I think I need that emoji where the face hits itself with a hammer...

spriso wrote: Wed Jul 29, 2020 11:08 pm Been there, done that. I do remember that coagulated grease/rubber concoction was one of the most difficult substances to get off my skin that I have ever experienced...

Replace the boots and re-grease and you will be fine...

Michael

Thanks for that image...pretty nasty stuff! Yeah, I still have some staining on my fingers, and didn't even get much on my skin. The shirt I immediately used Fast Orange on, then Dawn, then laundry spray, then washed with detergent +borax +Arm & Hammer booster. And it came out as black as it started. Haha. Of course, when I was doing all that I still thought it was possibly grease of some sort.

----
Regarding the boots listed in the wiki, I apologize, if I was at home I'd look under the car to confirm. But the wiki says the tie rods can use the same part as the upper ball joints and to order 3 (which I take to mean 3 sets of 2 for the tie rods? so 6 total boots for tie rods). I'll probably order an extra set of each just in case I tear any of them when installing, or just to have on the shelf instead of paying for shipping again if some tear later.

So 2 sets of 9-13119 (1 for lower ball joints, 1 extra) and 5 sets (3 for tie rods, 1 for upper ball joints, 1 extra) 9-13105. Is there anything else that I should be thinking of ordering to have on hand for doing this job? So far the list includes an assortment of new zerk fittings, a grease gun, Mobil 1 synthetic red grease, more shop towels & hand cleaner (gloves if I can find any)...

I have found Mobil 1 red grease to get “drippy” over time in the suspension. My preference for the last few years has been Sta-Lube Moly Graph.

I’ll need to spend some time with my grease gun and suspension soon.